Done with R/R conversion!
11-23-2008, 08:46 PM
#31
Member
Squid
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oakland, Ca
Posts: 80
[quote=Hawkrider;188655]Or better yet get the upgraded stock Honda one for $70-something on ebay. Just got mine from a place called Skyline Parts. Look up part #31600-MV4-010 on ebay.
The part arrived witin a couple of days,bolted right in and puts 14.20 volts to the battery, as compared to 13.25 to the stocker. all it has to do now is last ten years, like OEM, and it will be well worth the effort. I will post on this @ that time, or if this one fails, I will cry out loud.
The part arrived witin a couple of days,bolted right in and puts 14.20 volts to the battery, as compared to 13.25 to the stocker. all it has to do now is last ten years, like OEM, and it will be well worth the effort. I will post on this @ that time, or if this one fails, I will cry out loud.
11-23-2008, 08:52 PM
#32
Trouble Makers Union 510
Squid
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bay Area California 510
Posts: 93
Shoot I'm with spending the extra $30 from Rick's Electric...mine is still going strong....
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics....FIb25WVFIxMDAw <---that links using the year 2001, honda, VtrSuperhawk...start the part search from the start for your specific year...
-RB
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics....FIb25WVFIxMDAw <---that links using the year 2001, honda, VtrSuperhawk...start the part search from the start for your specific year...
-RB
11-24-2008, 11:08 AM
#33
Administrator
World Champion
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
The part arrived witin a couple of days,bolted right in and puts 14.20 volts to the battery, as compared to 13.25 to the stocker. all it has to do now is last ten years, like OEM, and it will be well worth the effort. I will post on this @ that time, or if this one fails, I will cry out loud.
11-24-2008, 06:28 PM
#34
Member
Squid
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oakland, Ca
Posts: 80
Man, if this forum is around as long as your second regulator I'll be really ****** surprised. In the time span that I had my first one the forum went from SportTwin email list, to Micapeak email list, to ZikZak email list, to RunLevelZero email list, to nothing, and then to this forum! I just hope we've settled down a bit now.
so Happy Thanksgiving 2018,
12-01-2008, 07:32 PM
#35
Member
Squid
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Clackamas, OR
Posts: 39
Installed an Electo-Sport unit this evening. 14 volts. I'm good.
Any benefit to drilling cooling holes in the side cover? There's an "inlet" gap at the bottom and an "outlet" gap at the tail light. Is heat a contributing factor to these units failing?
Any benefit to drilling cooling holes in the side cover? There's an "inlet" gap at the bottom and an "outlet" gap at the tail light. Is heat a contributing factor to these units failing?
12-02-2008, 07:25 PM
#41
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: May 2008
Location: S.Dak USA
Posts: 347
These units generate a LOT of amps,so heat is always a problem with the earlier Honda R/Rs. Just upgrade to the later Honda R/R with heat sink (fins) or buy a good aftermarket unit. I like Electro Sport, quality products/American company. Do that and ventilation is not necessary.
12-02-2008, 07:41 PM
#42
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,119
I drilled vent holes in the lower portion of the tail cowl and made a reverse NACA duct over it to draw out heat, and installed a custom intake snorkel above the rear brake fluid resevoir that focuses on the VR/R. I also cleaned and applied heat sink paste between the VR/R and frame and a CPU heat sink and the outside face of the original 98 OE unfinned VR/R. The heat sink has a 12V CPU 50mm X 50mm fan integrated that is powered off the tailight circuit. So far in 50k miles its been a champ but a have a spare non-finned VR/R I carry on long trips and a spare plug with crimp connectors ready to splice in. My onboard volt meter keeps an eye on things. I finally replaced the original 98 battery late this season but the old one still takes a charge and holds +12.8v.
12-03-2008, 08:04 AM
#44
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: May 2008
Location: S.Dak USA
Posts: 347
I don't know where the products are actually made.I do know that I have purchased various components from them and found the quality/service to be first class and ALL their products carry a one year warranty.
I really like the OEM style connector kits they sell.You can find just about anything electrical for your bike.Check 'em out...Good resource.
Last edited by steve.g; 12-03-2008 at 08:09 AM.
12-03-2008, 08:21 AM
#45
Member
Squid
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Clackamas, OR
Posts: 39
I drilled vent holes in the lower portion of the tail cowl and made a reverse NACA duct over it to draw out heat, and installed a custom intake snorkel above the rear brake fluid resevoir that focuses on the VR/R. I also cleaned and applied heat sink paste between the VR/R and frame and a CPU heat sink and the outside face of the original 98 OE unfinned VR/R. The heat sink has a 12V CPU 50mm X 50mm fan integrated that is powered off the tailight circuit. So far in 50k miles its been a champ but a have a spare non-finned VR/R I carry on long trips and a spare plug with crimp connectors ready to splice in. My onboard volt meter keeps an eye on things. I finally replaced the original 98 battery late this season but the old one still takes a charge and holds +12.8v.
Wow! Got pic's? I'd like to see that.
12-03-2008, 08:26 AM
#46
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,119
E
http://www.electrosport.com/about-us/
I don't know where the products are actually made.I do know that I have purchased various components from them and found the quality/service to be first class and ALL their products carry a one year warranty.
I really like the OEM style connector kits they sell.You can find just about anything electrical for your bike.Check 'em out...Good resource.
I don't know where the products are actually made.I do know that I have purchased various components from them and found the quality/service to be first class and ALL their products carry a one year warranty.
I really like the OEM style connector kits they sell.You can find just about anything electrical for your bike.Check 'em out...Good resource.
http://www.electrosport.com/products...detail-501.php
12-04-2008, 06:07 PM
#48
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,119
I forget how sharp the VTR is without all the mods hanging off mine. I think I like your red accented wheels. Is that paint or powder coated red, and chrome or just polished rims. If polished, is it clear coated and is it easy to keep clean?
Last edited by skokievtr; 12-04-2008 at 06:09 PM.
12-04-2008, 06:37 PM
#49
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Tweety, what is your opinion of this kit?
http://www.electrosport.com/products...detail-501.php
http://www.electrosport.com/products...detail-501.php
I still prefer a projector... That makes sure all the light goes where it's supposed... Buut... If you are going to go for a bulb in your old reflector, a bulb with a solenoid swapping hi/lo like that is probably the best choice...
Altough you will have one hell of a time fitting that bulb in to the stock light... That sticks out way more than the stock connector... So it might interfere with the upper cowl bracket...
Belive me, there isn't much room... That was the hardest part of my retrofit...
12-04-2008, 09:21 PM
#52
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Glenview, IL
Posts: 135
I wouldn't go as far as making holes in the fender, but i got mine with R/R replaced. I read about people putting cpu fans on them and since i'm **** about heat i decided to put one on even though my R/R has fins.
Well i noticed that my hawk was idling rough, jumping about 400 to 500 rpms up and down, i though maybe air or fuel or something, decided to take care of it later. I put the fan on w/o ever thinking about the RPM issue. first thing i notice, even after a long run, the rpms jump only about 100 while in idle.
Just food for thought.....
Well i noticed that my hawk was idling rough, jumping about 400 to 500 rpms up and down, i though maybe air or fuel or something, decided to take care of it later. I put the fan on w/o ever thinking about the RPM issue. first thing i notice, even after a long run, the rpms jump only about 100 while in idle.
Just food for thought.....
02-20-2009, 07:49 AM
#53
Member
Squid
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 59
i did the r/r swap went to the local dealership (brockton cycle center) and bought a reg. for an 2001 r1 ($78), worked great! i went all last year and a couple of times this year, about 7000 miles, no problems. p.s. the same dealer wanted $129.99 for the replacement honda one. seems to me that the better regulator should be more money, but don't tell them......
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