Done with R/R conversion!
 

Well I had some time last night so I did the R-1 R/R conversion. VERY simple. Trust me if I can do it anyone can! :D

I opted to not snip the the wires and put on new connectors. I'm always afraid that I won't get a good crimp and eventually lose the connection. Instead I took a pair of wire cutters and carefully cut apart the old plastic housing and pulled the wires with the connectors out.

I wrapped each connector with electrical tape to eliminate the possibility of arcing, hooket it up, zip tied the wires close to the connectors and electrical taped it all up.

It held a charge overnight, so I think its all good. :cool:

very nice

where did you get your r1 r/r

From a local dealership. It's an aftermarket. Only cost about $65.

R1 R/R question
 

When you bought this R/R at the dealer did you need to specify a year of R1? Seems like I remember that the 2001 series is different from the later models?

Thanks,
SWP

That's annoying, the only place I could get one within a few days was at $100 and still special order. Local dealers are a ripoff here. The dealers online at $65 were going to take a week.

And they wanted $200 for the Honda replacement. :(

I really don't get it why our dealers suck, I mean, San Diego has tons of bikes, you'd think it'd be easy to get such a common part.


I used the 2001 R1/R6 piece.

From what I understand it has to be pre-fuel injection. Just tell the parts guy you need an R/R for an '01 R-1.

Did you try stockers in national city?

there is a certain year of r1 r/r's that cost a lot more than the older ones. go with the older ones, its a waste of money otherwise.

Thanks,
 

Thanks for the info. I'll start looking around for the R/R.

I put new tires on my bike yesterday. Took off the wheels and had the tires mounted at a local place. Really looking forward to trying them out, but I mistakenly read the torque value for the rear brake caliber at 43 Nm instead of 23 Nm. Broke the bolt and had to order a new one with the dealer.

If I had just ignored the torque wrench I would have been fine. Oh well.

I'll use the weekend to try and find a replement bolt locally and maybe get the R/R.

Have a good weekend to you all.

SWP

I tried the well known places, but not that one. I'm new to this bike thing. Now it comes to car parts I could find and cross reference about any obscure part and find the best price anywhere.

I was not aware that our Mag's on our bikes where capable of producing voltages (around 10-18,000) that could produce arcing across spade connectors...Ok ok ok i cant sleep bored and i saw an easy target....So i engaged and now im feeling bad about it...Wait no i am not feeling bad about this since i was just kidding around ... All right Top of the world mom!!! damn im need a Psychiatric evaluation ....

Arcing is unlikely... but moisture corroding the spade connectors, creating resistance and in the end melting the wire is however very likely, so taping it up isn't a bad idea...

Oh and filter, you wouldn't be alone in that situation around here... We might get a group discount?

I remember reading something about NOT using aftermarket parts, they are no better than the stock VTR's. In fact, most aftermarket R/R's are the same part with different connectors to fit the various bikes. What you really wanted was an original R1 Yamaha part. Again, this is just going from memory...

I've beefed up the ground circuit on my R/R and it's been rock solid. There was a post on one of the VFR forums about this some time ago but I don't have the link anymore. It made a huge difference in my bike. I'm still running the orignal battery (11 years and counting!) if that means anything.

The aftermarket that I purchased was a direct replacement for an R-1. Same wiring sequence of the stock Honda, just it is larger with cooling fins to avoid overheating. Think it was made by Sun.

Uninsulated spade connectors won't arc across the gap between them, but they WILL shift around and potentially short against each other. This is why they need to be insulated. I put shrink wrap on the stock connectors. I'm not a big fan of electrical tape, if it's not quality tape it will come off after enough heat cycles.

:confused:

Ok, so yesterday I had the day off due to my work being a polling place. The G/F and I decided to take out the SH, since she has not been on it yet this year. Lights came on, hit the start and nuthin'. Tried it again and got a clicking noise from the r/r then nothin.

Main fuse had juice so I pulled the tail off and turned on the key. No lights. I touched the wires on the r/r and everything came on and it fired right up.

I'm wondering if some condensation formed where the wires meet the r/r, because the bike was damp when I went to start it. Think I will shrink-wrap the connectors rather than electrical tape them.

Any ideas?

It is best to solder the spade connectors onto the wires.

You can also add some dielectric grease to keep out the moisture.

I may use the grease too, but the spade connectors are original. I removed them from the plastic oem connector plug rather than cutting the wires and putting on new connectors.

Don't mean to be a smart ass,but for an extra $30 buy an Electro Sport R/R. Has a built in heat sink and is model specific for the Hawk,plug n play.Cheapest I've seen is from Dennis Kirk for $95

Where is that unit made? I'm afraid of Chinese electronics.

Or better yet get the upgraded stock Honda one for $70-something on ebay. Just got mine from a place called Skyline Parts. Look up part #31600-MV4-010 on ebay.

There's a used one too - item 140281890819

Good find Greg!

Can you believe these guys had it to my door, from CA to NY, in three days!!!

R/R was brand new NOS in package, is now installed, and working great.

Dude mine just died today
 

Mine just went out today; at least I think it did. I was cruising and suddenly I noticed my rpm gauge was reading zero whilst I was gliding down the road at 45mph, I thought "that surely can't be right", and then I noticed my odometer LCD screen intermittently flashing on and off. Now she won't start, of course.

So I got home, shut her down and came here. You guys are a great resource for VTR's.

So now the battery is out of the bike, and on the charge; and in 2-3 business days I should have an R6's R/R.

Yes, thanks for this link, although I live within 20 miles, there shipping costs are less than fuel (well almost) this is truly a great forum..

It would be truly ironic if it took you, at <100 miles away, longer to get your part than it did for me on the other side of the country. :crackup:

Yeah, common sense prevailed, I just purchased unit # 10, according to EBay link, so when it arrives I will post up the details, not there will be many. Did you check voltage output of the new unit ? says it is higher voltage, my stocker is currently, ;), putting out 13.25 volts, which I believe is within spec, but curious what "higher" voltage might be.

More fun
 

okay so I just got my r/r from ebay for $40

I know, awesome deal huh? IF it works......

well it's looks great and all; big, heavy, finned; if I was a mermaid i'd be getting all wet and horny right about now. Anyways externally it looks JUST like the ones in the diagrams on this site, or the site this forum recommends. But the damn thing has SIX connections, six little metal prongs; all evenly and sequentially placed.

Now I could just set it down, finned side up, and put the three yellows on the bottom, red on the left, green on the right, and leave the middle empty. That's probably what I'm going to end up doing when I get impatient to ride again, but that sixth connector is driving me crazy. There are no wiring diagrams I've found online that depict a six connector R/R.

I hope she don't blow when I hook'er up tomorrow, it's probably just a ground or something superfluous.

Since we're spreadin' the love, I too want to thank all for keeping this forum going. I often turn to it for my nitty-gritty Superhawk needs. Thanks all.:woo:

Well she didn't blow, I'll see if the battery stays charged