Hey scottiemann..! Thanks for the link and invite to the forum, the bikes here are amazing.
I've found a set of inverted forks... I'll have more info on them tomorrow morning and do the research tonight.
Again, Thanx man..!

 

Happy to have helped... let me know what your gonna be getting for forks. If I cant help someone here definitely can and its probably already been done so search is your best friend

 

Thanks scottiemann;
The forks are from a 2001 TL1000 Suzuki... I haven't picked them up yet as I'm going to wait for your response.
The research I've done was just that I checked here for the bearing size cross reference for the neck...

Fork conversion All ***** Racing

So the bearings are available to swap them but that only accounts for the diameter of the neck bolt.
Next, I have to find the length of the neck bolt on the TL and the VTR. Is that all..? I mean aside form all the wheel and brake parts as necessary right.
I've not done a swap like this before, so I'm starting to confuse myself with all the information I'm finding.

 

Start a build thread or a fork swap thread... youll get more help then just me there, Ill send you a pm in a little bit with my thoughts and suggestions.

 

I found with my Dans that the bracket that holds the master cylinder flexed and moved every time I used the back brake, I used to have to lift the lever back up with my boot otherwise the brake would drag no matter how I secured it until I did this!




For my electric water pump cover to pump hose I used a heater hose from a car and chopped it like this.



Good luck!

 

Sorry,

Here is a better pic of the Dan with the securing bolt.

 

Good God man..!
That's gorgeous, and yes, in a moment of weakness, I did reach out to touch it, and I'm okay admitting that.

 

I have no idea what this means lol but thanks for sharing

And Ken yea I already did the bracket fix, pics are on the previous page, drilled it from the back and tapped it for an M8 bolt. And did you seriously stretch a 3/4" to 1"? I mean if it works it works but that setup wont work for me, due to the rad location I need to put the electric pump above the mechanical...

 

Yea my original deduction for my dilema of reduction is not possible so I'm back to the drawing board for something more doable and plausible

 

My problem is the return of the brake lever for me. Just doesnt seem to work so hot. But its all good. They are a hell of alot nicer than stock for certain once you figure out your comfort spot. I love the shifter. SO much nicer than stock.

 

Scottie,

The hose is tapered, it is 1" and goes down to 3/4", just had to trim it up a bit.

I also fitted a small bolt from the rear of the Dans to start with but the bracket still moved.

That is why I drilled the plate from the front and lined it up with the threaded hole in the mounting plate that allowed for a bigger bolt and stopped the bracket from moving when applying the brake. When I did that the lever also stopped binding and returned by itself.

Hard to explain but works for me!

 

I get what your trying to say, I read all of your posts on the thread regarding that issue, Ill see how the bolt from the back goes and change it if i run into any problems

 

Tonight I finished up the lower radiator bracket. Had to drill and tap the head for an M6 bolt, made up a cross brace, positioned the rads where I wanted them, made up angle brackets for each side and I am now sufficiently satisfied with the sturdiness of the rads.

Next step is to cut down, remove excess and clean up all the cooling system brackets as well as cut down the lower oil cooler mounting tabs. I have thrusday off of work so I should be abkle to get that done by thursday.

All I'm waiting on now for the oil cooler is 2 45 degree AN fittings then I can finallize that project. As for the coolant system, I'm waiting on my hoses, and still need to figure out how I'm going to reduce the 2 1" outputs of the mechanical water pump and thermostat housing. I also need to find a suitable reservoir and fit that up... I gots ideas

 

I also recieved today and yesterday, my Vstacks and caliper paint... I should haven all my rebuild kits for the brake and clutch systems tomorrow so hopefully soon I will have those done as well

 

Good to see the progress, am interested to see what you do with the electric pump.

 

***** gettin real!!!



So I gotta get my *** in gear and finalize these rad brackets, hoses a waitin...

Also the biggest bag of OEM seals and parts I have ever seen,

I have tomorrow off so hopefully I can get my lazy *** out of bed early because I got a ton to get done and I'm not waiting on parts right now, parts are waiting on me

 

ok, I know this is gonna sound stupid... I know it wouldnt be a problem, however I dont think I have the space...BUT, has anyone ever done an external PCV system? Ive never been comfortable with hot oily air unfiltered going into my combustion chambers... just something thats crossed my mind once, twice, half a billion times

 

Like this?

I was planning on a catch can, but 8541Hawk, who has done the same thing as the pictures below, hasn't had any problems, besides wiping off a little oil mist now and then near the filters.

 

yea I was originally planning on using pod filters but seeing as I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to use for my coolant overflow, the idea of using an oil catch can seems like a good idea so maybe running 2 for symetry, one for oil one for coolant might look cool...

 

do those pods have check valves in them or are they just standard pods?

 

or scratch the symetry plan... run a mini catch can where the PAIR valve used to be...

 

Just standard filter pods and in the last 800-900 miles, I have honestly seen zero oil mist or drips to clean up. I really think an oil catch can is not needed. That saves you some space. I know a lot of you see some oil inside your airbox, but remember, there is no filter media preventing this.

FYI, the stock coolant system only displaces 4 ounces of fluid.

 

I tend to agree with you on that, also, the air box is in a state of constant vacuum sucking air into the motor, which means it will also help to suck out some of the oil vapors out of the motor, kinda like a carburetor getting the fuel, to put in simple words.
That will build up oil in the air box.

 

Lotsa work to do!

What are all the genuine Honda parts for?

I run a remote coolant bottle in the tail of my bike, it's a HRC unit and it works well.

 

This is the exact setup im running on my bike.

 

So pod filters it is...

As for the coolant overflow, I havent really decided what type of container I will be using yet and I wont really be able to make an informed decision on what size or where it will be located until I am done plumbing up the system and know where the pump is going to be mounted... that will dictate what space and where I have for options.

And the bag of parts is all the seals and rebuild kits for the 3 calipers, 3 master cylinders and clutch slave... rebuilding the front brakes isnt completely necessary but they are still 10 years old. The rear brakes havent been used in 3+ years and are hurting for attention, even though I flush the system and use fresh fluid almost every year, the rear master had gunky milky fluid in it when I cleaned it up and I'm sure i'll see the same in the clutch system being 18 years old... I am also going to be trying out low viscosity brake fluid, normally used in racing vehicles and vehicles with ABS and I feel confident with a fully rebuilt system I wont have any leaks due to the thinner fluid. And if I find I dont like it I can always flush it and run standard viscosity.

 

I will say this....When at stop lights with this....it certainly is noticeable. The scent that is. But the last thing I want is carbs gummed up due to oil.

 

That triple rad setup looks sweet! Can't wait to see the outcome. Keep us updated Scottie.

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Thats two radiators and a oil cooler not 3 radiators sir.

 

No problem with the pictures, if I'm publishing them to a public forum their pretty much up for grabs(unless someone claims its their bike). And by the way the bike is a 98 not 08.