scottiemann, this build is amazing.
I have to apologize in advance though, this winter I'll be bugging you for answers on parts, and assembly.
I'll be re-reading this post 1,000 times more... Hahaha.
I totally dig your attention to detail, and have to give you the Karma and Respect you deserve...

 

Thanks for the good karma lol

I'm not the most knowledgable person here but I have had my SH for many years and rebuilt it many times so I'll help as much as I can.

 

So I'm not quite sure what the specific alloy content is of the cast engine covers are but they are not a huge fan of my aluminum etching solution... They oxidized to a dark grey. At first I just thought that this specific alloy was etching to that color for some reason until I realized it was rubbing off on my hands. My de-ox/desmut solution isnt doing anything because this isnt the "standard" white oxidation we see on aluminum. Gonna have to clean these up the old fashioned way...



See Fr33k, I do **** up on occasion

 

So guess who finally showed up... Ruvik (NHSH)

Havent seen him in a couple years but we do talk somewhat regularly. We shared some awesome stories, pictures, pizza lol... I finally got some first hand feedback on my bike and debates I've been dealing with.

I hooked him up with some freebies I offered him a while back and he gave me a superhawk fix which helped reinforce some of my mod decisions as well as a heads up for plans I have regarding my bike, so here are my thoughts...

In regards to suspension, me and him are both running CBR1KRR front end and stock shock however he is running a much lighter CBR rear wheel which is also wider 190 as opposed to the 180 stock. I do eventually plan on running the CBR rear wheel eventually mostly due to the weight savings. He has also lifted his tail which is on my to-do list and was reinforced by my quick ride, I feel the lifted tail and wider rear tire compliment each other nicely.

As for the handlebars I plan on running, he is running raised clipons which are wider then stock and fairly close to the lift and bend of my handlebars, Much more comfortable then the low, low,LOW CBR clipons. It was a short ride but a very comfortable one.

I was contemplating running a single throttle cable with no return cable as I may need a new one with the handlebars I'm running, after riding his with no throttle stop... it was rough, way too much play in the throttle when closed. However I did have a spare throttle tube and housing laying around so we took a look and discussed a couple ways to make a modified throttle stop in the housing. Now that I know what to expect with running no return cable I can modify the housing to eliminate the problem.

He is running some radical gearing that he cant recall but its not too far from the 15/43 I just switched from so I'm a fan but I need more top speed... I just switched to 15/42 to get a good mix...

Now for my favorite mod on his bike,,, the super light flywheel... Awesome, I cant even express how good this feels... speechless...almost... the thing just goes, spins up so fast with no struggle I cant wait to get this done and ride my bike. I have been modding and messing around with my bike since 2006 and I have never experienced a mod that comes close to this... I feel that everyone that talks about this mod is either modest or just cant put into words how amazing this is... I engine brake almost 100% of the time unless a quick/emergency situation dictates I hit the brakes, I mean I engine brake so much that I lock up the rear wheel fairly frequently(nay sayers...whatever...feels good) But with this flywheel the thing decelerates as fast as it accelerates, I touch the brakes when I get to the line, thats it..

uuughgghh.... anyways heres some pics of ruvik messin with his pipes



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his bike makes me feel short

 

Scottie taking off for a joy ride

 

NHSH, that is cool that you kept the Superhawk front fender. Also, are those auxiliary driving lights where the stock oil cooler is? If so, how do those work for you? Cool bike man.

EDIT: Like you and Scottie, I'm installing a CBR1K front end. Could you do me a huge flavor? I took measurements before disassembling my bike, but I found this morning that I lost my front measurement. Could you take a measurement from the ground to bottom of the neck? You would be helping me out a lot.

 

Wow that's a clean bike, love the retro headlight

 

Ill probably have my front end on tonight or friday night so if ruv doesnt beat me to it ill post my measurements on your build thread. How do you like your measurements? The right way or the american way? Or both...

 

I took a measurement (SAE, or American) with the stock front end, so I have a place to start from when I put the new front end on. That's all I'm really looking for. A measurement from the ground to the bottom of the neck on the frame. I assumed NHSH did the same thing, so he could possibly tell me where to begin setting up my suspension.

 

And by the way, you should see his other bike... he is also extremely innovative when it comes to belly pans

 

Ok so you just need the measurment to get it close to where you have the SH forks now, same stance in other words?

 

Yes. Thanks. Hope it's not to much trouble.

I knew I should have wrote this stuff of my white board. I wrote the measurements on blue painters tape and stuck it to the Ohlins shock and the CBR1K front end. The tape on the front fell off and I have no freakin' clue where it went.

 

Looks like twin horns maybe?

 

No, it's not twin horns, why do I need horn? I just rave the engine
These are auxiliary lights that I made myself from Home Depot 24V LED spot lights 500 lumin each and cost oh, I think it was $16 each, the rest was just playing with brackets and wires, did install the switch right next to the low high beam and the best part, night rides become daylight combined with the HID projector

 

Thank you CruxGNZ.
I am not anywhere close to the bike today, so I guess Scottie will bit me to the measuring.
BTW, the SH fender needed some convincing with a heat gun to take the wide forks

 

OK here are measurements that I can help you with at the moment as I think I have decided to paint my wheels so my whole front wont be on til thats done lol...

If you have all the parts for both front ends you can verify these measurements.

From axle to top of fork tube, there is a 3" difference between the two.

On the top CBR triple, The top of the fork clamps sits roughly 1/8" higher then the yoke bearing surface(because of the lower offset triple design).

The top VTR triple, The top of the fork clamps I believe (I dont have the original bearing set to verify) sits about 3/4" above the yoke bearing surface.

That creates a front end height difference of roughly 2 3/8" to 2 1/2" (eye balled with a tape measure).

So what all this means is that If you were running your SH fork clamps flush with the top of the fork tubes, your CBR front end at its highest setting will be 2 1/2" lower then that, and vice a versa you would have had to of been running the top of your VTR tubes 2 1/2" above the top of the triple to match the height of the CBR forks.

hope this helps a bit

 

Yea Scottie, I bet yah Ducati never expected their upper fairing to be used as a belly pan on a Honda

 

or tail plastic as a belly pan... Have you ever had a bike with a belly pan that was originally intended to be a belly pan?

 

Yes, the 1986 GSXR750 that I owned many years ago

 

So I did work tonight... crazy right?

I did FINAL installation of my radiators!!!!! Thank god something is actually being assembled and not just taken apart lol

I could not get any type of good lighting so the pictures are terrible but I will take some better pictures tomorrow with some sunlight but you'll get the idea.

Now that they are finally mounted I was able to take a closer look at things and I think I know the exact part number of the last random hose I need.

And I will not be able to mount the oil cooler until I finish cleaning up one of the valve covers, paint it and install it because there is very little clearance between the two.

 

Yes, I think I can work with those measurements. Thanks man, I appreciate it.

Your bike is coming along. Final assembly feels awesome

 

no problem, any time I can help I am glad to

and yes final assembly does feel awesome, still a while away from running but besides the wiring, the cooling system is probably the most intensive and time consuming... I'm working on plumbing it up now, may be done by tonight but definitely tomorrow with the exception of the reservoir tank, still waiting on that to come in(I have my son this weekend so we will see what time I have).

As I have everything I need for the oil cooler I can temporarily mount that up to measure, cut, and make up the lines for that.

As the rads are mounted now, I can put on the front end at any time, with the exception of the front wheel because I will be painting that...

And then commence brake system rebuild

 

Here are some pics in the daylight of the rads mounted.

 

So in the past 3 hours I have this thing almost completely plumbed for coolant, all I need is a 3/4" straight coupler and a length of hose for the electric pump(surprisingly I do not have a coupler laying around), and I'm also waiting on my overflow tank to get here, hopefully monday then I can make up some brackets for that and get that plumbed... I know I have gone back and forth between the carb heater lines and due to the excessive plumbing going on and the pump sitting right there, I will be omitting those (nay sayers, again, whatever, I'm aware of the ups and downs either way)

hopfully I can get that coupler this afternoon if my son is cooperating well enough to run to the store, in which case the pump will be fully plumbed up tonight...

The easiest pipe to plumb, just missing the positive starter pole, it is however very close to the front header pipe, I will keep an eye on it and if theres any sign of heat damage its very easy to replace and I will have to put some adhesive heatshield matt on it, however I will be running header wrap so I'm hoping that wont be an issue.



thermostat housing with fresh paint and hardware, sans thermostat and the pipes for that




plumbing the thermostat output to the two rads, dont worry that 90 isnt kinked






And lastly the start of plumbing up the pump. pic 1-the two special hoses, pic 2-placement as seen from the right side pic 3-placement as seen from the top pic 4- the output on the lower left rad





Theres a couple pros and cons to the placement of the pump, the pros: its easy to disconnect electrically if need be, and its inside the frame, which in my opinion is a HUGE pro. And the only con I can see is this eliminates hand access to the idle speed adjuster screw, however due to its nubby design as long as I have a straight line of sight to it I can move it with a long flat blade screw driver...

 

looking good, very tidy!

That flywheel is just waiting to be cracked.

Like where you have put the pump.

One of those cans lying on your garage floor would make a great cover for your starter motor. Much like this!

 

It looks like the pump pushes coolant into the bottom of the left radiator and from there, it splits off to the right radiator. The coolant flows from the bottom of both radiators up to the top, then both radiators flow to the thermostat housing, then into the engine. Is this how it's routed?

 

Thanks man, im trying to make this look right, you shoulda seen me mount up the brackets and rads last night, took me over two hours because I didnt want to scratch everything up lol. Even wore rubber gloves so i wouldnt get everything all greasy but that may be inevitbale at some point.

The only thing that bugs me is having visible black hose with all the blue going on but the company i got the hose from charges an obscene amount of money for 90 degree hoses... all my hose ranged from $0.90(vacuum)-~$4.00(heater) per foot and they want $40+ per 90 degree bend with 10" legs, i would need two of them and that would double the cost of how i have it now just for the two... f@%# that

As for the can cover, I like it, how did you go about securing it?

 

Its the opposite, the pump pulls it out the bottom of the rad. So it goes pump-engine-tstat-rads and back to the pump.

Still havent figured out what Im going to do about a fan, but whatever I do it will have to be on the left side due to the hose coming from the factory water pump on the right. I was thinking a 4" computer fan (I have to measure it to verify the size) but Im worried about its durability/waterproofness if I can find one that will be able to pull enough CFM hopefully I can waterproof the motor/wires going to the motor. Or the KTM fan if I can find it cheap enough. Newegg here I come

 

Alright I was able to go to the hardware store this afternoon to grab a coupling and a couple other things. So after the little man was in bed it was back out to the garage for me.

Finished plumbing up the water pump, now my coolant system is done with the exception of all the clamps a couple cap plugs and the overflow tank. When I do all the clamps I'm going to try and angle the pump downwards a little more to get the hose as low as I can get it. I also have the oil cooler temporarily mounted in order to work on the oil lines.