What did you do with your SuperHawk today?
10-29-2016, 12:34 AM
#1951
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Sorry to hear of your misfortune Red.
Look on the bright side, this is a good opportunity to do the motor up with some go fast goodies, H.C Pistons, cams , flywheel etc.
Hope you were lucky !
Look on the bright side, this is a good opportunity to do the motor up with some go fast goodies, H.C Pistons, cams , flywheel etc.
Hope you were lucky !
10-29-2016, 01:34 AM
#1952
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
No such luck. I think the valves are okay. I cant get the timing right because I am stupid to anything with a timing chain. using car knowledge. I also may have different marks on my crank as I cant find f tdc unless its the unmarked one. Cars are easy. find no1 tdc line up your makrs good n tight and slap it mack together.
Im gonna try one more time using this unknown mark....
Go fast goodies are a no go this month bought the swinger and I need to get a goodie for my wife its our 1 year she would never forgive me... If it wasnt for her I wouldn't have the storm...
Next month I can buy whatever I want
but I bet I pay to ship my car its getting cold.
I keep going to drop the engine and call it a year on the bike to do all the internals but I really need it for work.... :/
EDIT: Two of em bent just enough not to close. I may have did it when I hit the starter button as there are no marks on the valves or the head. Post pictures as soon as I get my phone back....
Im gonna try one more time using this unknown mark....
Go fast goodies are a no go this month bought the swinger and I need to get a goodie for my wife its our 1 year she would never forgive me... If it wasnt for her I wouldn't have the storm...
Next month I can buy whatever I want
but I bet I pay to ship my car its getting cold.I keep going to drop the engine and call it a year on the bike to do all the internals but I really need it for work.... :/
EDIT: Two of em bent just enough not to close. I may have did it when I hit the starter button as there are no marks on the valves or the head. Post pictures as soon as I get my phone back....
Last edited by RedStormJ; 10-29-2016 at 04:25 AM.
10-29-2016, 09:21 AM
#1953
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 28
Well i already put in manual cct. Did that before I even got to ride it. Guy told me they all do that and takes forever for the chain to jump. I wasnt gonna risk it. If there is some othere mod i am missing that is beneficial to the performance or longevity of the bike.
10-31-2016, 10:38 AM
#1954
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
adjust tps to 500 ohm. posts are on the board just search tps.
I cried over my storm then attempted pulling the valves. no go... I made adjustments to my monocoque tail buck. Any opinions would help. my thread is in mods performance.
also got bolts and a tap for my cct mod
I cried over my storm then attempted pulling the valves. no go... I made adjustments to my monocoque tail buck. Any opinions would help. my thread is in mods performance.
also got bolts and a tap for my cct mod
10-31-2016, 12:11 PM
#1955
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 28
adjust tps to 500 ohm. posts are on the board just search tps.
I cried over my storm then attempted pulling the valves. no go... I made adjustments to my monocoque tail buck. Any opinions would help. my thread is in mods performance.
also got bolts and a tap for my cct mod
I cried over my storm then attempted pulling the valves. no go... I made adjustments to my monocoque tail buck. Any opinions would help. my thread is in mods performance.
also got bolts and a tap for my cct mod
11-03-2016, 03:48 AM
#1957
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
New Cans showed up today!
Here is how it was.
Here are the parts that make this.
A bit shines but good quality link pipes.
All fitted up and have taken for a ride, sounds Fat, no baffles, the cans are longer, sounds very deep compared to the other cans that were on the bike for about 4 years .
Very happy with the setup, light, well made and sounds good. Best part is that I got them here in Oz at a great price.��
Here is how it was.
Here are the parts that make this.
A bit shines but good quality link pipes.
All fitted up and have taken for a ride, sounds Fat, no baffles, the cans are longer, sounds very deep compared to the other cans that were on the bike for about 4 years .
Very happy with the setup, light, well made and sounds good. Best part is that I got them here in Oz at a great price.��
11-03-2016, 09:11 AM
#1958
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
Fixed the two dime sized holes in my cf tank mold. Cried over the storm again. Guess I dont have the time to do the ports but at least the exhaust got sanded and I got measurements for the seat and the mold for the tank. For that I am happy.
11-05-2016, 01:41 AM
#1959
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
I bet your all out riding.... I took out the S valves and did my first valve lap at the shop. The head shop tech is cool and since labor is free I said screw it Ill put it back together. IT took me 30 mins to lap in the right side exhaust valve. the other one went in fast. My hands look like cherries. I also had to get new shims as one of the exehaust shims is worn out of spec. We miced everything and valves sealed up good. Worst valve job I have ever seen go past my hands but it was done by me and I know its right.
As a side note that engine is coming out again in a few months. Im buying a spare next month and doing the frankenstein to it. I may turn up the crazy after my car comes. I have hydraulic lifters I may want to try if the size requires only a little milling.
Nothing done with the molds today. Tomorrow should be assembly day. Diy manual ccts exct.
As a side note that engine is coming out again in a few months. Im buying a spare next month and doing the frankenstein to it. I may turn up the crazy after my car comes. I have hydraulic lifters I may want to try if the size requires only a little milling.
Nothing done with the molds today. Tomorrow should be assembly day. Diy manual ccts exct.
11-07-2016, 05:50 AM
#1961
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
Got the head torque checked with an actual torque wrench. I was shocked I got it in spec using a scale and a 1 foot wrench. Filled it with distilled water then put in windshield fluid... I cant read Japanese... Took it for a spin. she runs strong but got a slight fart at 3k. I think when fix the exhaust leak it will go away.
One thing that bothers me is that she breaks loose or lifts the front end super easy now and its not tuned up yet. still breaking it back in. So maybe the bike had the cams not lined up before or I am 180 out. Ill see tomorrow when I get coolant back in it.
Fast guy. You gotta get that thing running. I molded my gas tank sculpted a monocoque foam form repaired my engine and polished my header. I am dieing to see your bike in one piece.
One thing that bothers me is that she breaks loose or lifts the front end super easy now and its not tuned up yet. still breaking it back in. So maybe the bike had the cams not lined up before or I am 180 out. Ill see tomorrow when I get coolant back in it.
Fast guy. You gotta get that thing running. I molded my gas tank sculpted a monocoque foam form repaired my engine and polished my header. I am dieing to see your bike in one piece.
11-07-2016, 12:07 PM
#1962
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
You have me second guessing my high mounts. I have the link pipes to make my D&D's high mount or standard low mount. Problem is, I recently sold my stock passenger pegs/exhaust mounts to Fastguy. Nuts.
11-07-2016, 05:28 PM
#1963
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
11-07-2016, 09:28 PM
#1964
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
You guys' pipes look good.
I just buttoned up the bike with the new IC flasher hardwired in. I ordered a new plug for it but that wont be in for a long time. Got the flash timed to be legal put the extra washers and bolt in their homes then it started to rain just as I put the seat on to go for a cruise...
I told my wife yesterday that it will rain all week. I did not watch the weather channel...
I just buttoned up the bike with the new IC flasher hardwired in. I ordered a new plug for it but that wont be in for a long time. Got the flash timed to be legal put the extra washers and bolt in their homes then it started to rain just as I put the seat on to go for a cruise...
I told my wife yesterday that it will rain all week. I did not watch the weather channel...
11-08-2016, 02:39 AM
#1965
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Crux,
The VTR is the bike that I have kept the longest out of 43 that I have owned or had long term associations with. As I'm sure you can appreciate, it is a blank canvas that just begs to be fettled to where you want it. Can't wait to see yours! As we say here in Oz, "Pull your finger out son "
Cadbury,
I have had the hangers for about 3 years now. Got them from Projection Raceing in the U.K
Do a Google search ,they may still be available.
Went for a ride with some mates on Sunday and the VTR was not embarrassed. It just goes so well in the real world. The different sound from the new pipes added a nice soundtrack, especially when at about 6-7 . Much deeper and syncopated sound , can't beat that V Twin soundtrack on a nice sunny day and a smooth road.
Waiting for my new rear hugger now , she looks naked without it, sort of unfinished!
Will post pics of course .
The VTR is the bike that I have kept the longest out of 43 that I have owned or had long term associations with. As I'm sure you can appreciate, it is a blank canvas that just begs to be fettled to where you want it. Can't wait to see yours! As we say here in Oz, "Pull your finger out son "
Cadbury,
I have had the hangers for about 3 years now. Got them from Projection Raceing in the U.K
Do a Google search ,they may still be available.
Went for a ride with some mates on Sunday and the VTR was not embarrassed. It just goes so well in the real world. The different sound from the new pipes added a nice soundtrack, especially when at about 6-7 . Much deeper and syncopated sound , can't beat that V Twin soundtrack on a nice sunny day and a smooth road.
Waiting for my new rear hugger now , she looks naked without it, sort of unfinished!
Will post pics of course .
Last edited by kenmoore; 11-08-2016 at 11:23 PM.
11-09-2016, 09:33 AM
#1966
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
Got my new engine! It looks amazing way cleaner than the one on the bike. Pics soon. Got the rr rim test fitted on the bike. I have to do some welding so its not happening. I am instead going to test mount the RR swinger on the spare engine. I just need a j tube to check the legnth.
I mentioned in the uk forum that I used my bed to dismount the rubber from the rr rim.
Found a broken tooth on the sprocket but I did manage to drop it so I am sure I didnt notice that I had chipped a tooth out.
Tightened the chain. Feels great.
Did some composites reading. Junk so far. books called composite materials for aircraft structures. Looking for the book about composites crux mentioned.
I cant wait to mount some good rubber on the bike. hopefully saturday.
I mentioned in the uk forum that I used my bed to dismount the rubber from the rr rim.
Found a broken tooth on the sprocket but I did manage to drop it so I am sure I didnt notice that I had chipped a tooth out.
Tightened the chain. Feels great.
Did some composites reading. Junk so far. books called composite materials for aircraft structures. Looking for the book about composites crux mentioned.
I cant wait to mount some good rubber on the bike. hopefully saturday.
11-12-2016, 01:59 AM
#1967
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
Well I did it again. I dismounted the old tire using a truck and the jack to break the bead. SCratched the heck out of the lip paint pulling the old tire off. Sprayed some flat black on the edges and mounted a Michelin pilot 190. Put it up to .2mpa I think thats 35 psi. I hope. Herd a noise in the valve train. Tightened up the front cct. Fired it up with the timing window open... Got an oil shower. Closed the window checked again. Noise was gone. Looked at the cam chain on the spare and realized my chain was wayyy tooo loose. Tightened it to a similar tightness and wow. carb fart is all but gone. Power band is back to normal and the bike handles way better than before.
11-12-2016, 09:00 AM
#1969
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
No I dont like wood splinters to the face. I jacked the tire into the frame rail. In retrospect I could have saved all the screwdriver marks on the rim by cutting it off. I just painted them.
The Dunlop was hard as a rock. The pilot came off the CBR rim way easier. Michelin pilots all the way. Plus the handeling of a 190 makes it easier for me to lean the bike. I may be cutting mass too because the response is way up. But I also fixed a loose cct at the same time so I dont know.
The Dunlop was hard as a rock. The pilot came off the CBR rim way easier. Michelin pilots all the way. Plus the handeling of a 190 makes it easier for me to lean the bike. I may be cutting mass too because the response is way up. But I also fixed a loose cct at the same time so I dont know.
11-12-2016, 10:55 AM
#1970
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Didn't you have the valve cover off the front head? I thought you followed Carls guide on the VTR1000.org site. The guide shows you exactly how to set the proper tension for the timing chain. 5-7mm deflection between the cam gears if I recall correctly. Make sure you're not running the timing chain to tight. You just got your bike back together and I don't want to see you have any more problems.
11-13-2016, 08:47 AM
#1971
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
Yeah I called carl out on it too.... Not in a serious offensive manner but the guide he wrote shows it as if thats the slack. There is no slack in any motor I have ever done. I instead set them to factory tension. I know you all might call me stupid for this but I used my spare as a guide to set the tension feeling it out with my thumb on the chain I checked and I can push the chain side to side just fine and I have some... I wouldn't call it play but wiggle if I put good pressure on it. Ill know if I burn up a set of slides. As I said I got a spare.
Anyways that said. I am pulling the cam cover off the front tomorrow as I actually just did the back CCT today. Smart right? Riding a week on an engine that I just replaced valves in with the auto cct still in the rear..... I didnt want to admit how stupid I was.
But also I test fired it before bed using the get it tight and back out 1/2 turn method and its the best I have ever seen the bike run. I plan on using my mic to check the valves in the morning as I think that short valve has a bit of lash now that everything is broken back in. I may need a real shim kit.
Cant say it was smart not zeroing the mic. Cant say it was smart using my thumb to check the tension in the chain. Cant say anything Ive done since a week before the engine blew is smart but I will say the bike is in the best condition it has been since I got it. Besides the tank........
Crux how does it sound!!!?!?!?!? You better have at least herd her sing today! It's 1 am here and I just got out of my garage.
Anyways that said. I am pulling the cam cover off the front tomorrow as I actually just did the back CCT today. Smart right? Riding a week on an engine that I just replaced valves in with the auto cct still in the rear..... I didnt want to admit how stupid I was.
But also I test fired it before bed using the get it tight and back out 1/2 turn method and its the best I have ever seen the bike run. I plan on using my mic to check the valves in the morning as I think that short valve has a bit of lash now that everything is broken back in. I may need a real shim kit.
Cant say it was smart not zeroing the mic. Cant say it was smart using my thumb to check the tension in the chain. Cant say anything Ive done since a week before the engine blew is smart but I will say the bike is in the best condition it has been since I got it. Besides the tank........
Crux how does it sound!!!?!?!?!? You better have at least herd her sing today! It's 1 am here and I just got out of my garage.
11-14-2016, 07:33 AM
#1972
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
Crux I could kiss you! You saved my ***. I
loosened both CCT's in the pouring rain.
rode it to my other work site. I could hear the poor guide howling, Didnt know what was making that horrible sound. Got home and low and behold after pulling the cam cover off. I had it 5mm too tight. No slack in the chain. Couldnt even get side slop on it.
I think I can blame my **** retentiveness on it. It was indeed too loose before as I thought the chain had to have more slack in it from the picutres. I now know its a tight 5mm of play. This time I used my micromiter and judgment that a chain should have side play.
On another note. I doubt that you could wipe out a cam journal as I thought I did. but the chain guides are super long in the vtr which is why they have to be loose. In most cars the chains feel like they are welded on but they also have jets shooting a film of oil between the guide and the chain. YOu could indeed snap a chain as tight as I had it.
Shes back up in one piece and almost ready to ride I just gotta put the faring on.
I owe carl an apology and a thank you.
loosened both CCT's in the pouring rain.
rode it to my other work site. I could hear the poor guide howling, Didnt know what was making that horrible sound. Got home and low and behold after pulling the cam cover off. I had it 5mm too tight. No slack in the chain. Couldnt even get side slop on it.
I think I can blame my **** retentiveness on it. It was indeed too loose before as I thought the chain had to have more slack in it from the picutres. I now know its a tight 5mm of play. This time I used my micromiter and judgment that a chain should have side play.
On another note. I doubt that you could wipe out a cam journal as I thought I did. but the chain guides are super long in the vtr which is why they have to be loose. In most cars the chains feel like they are welded on but they also have jets shooting a film of oil between the guide and the chain. YOu could indeed snap a chain as tight as I had it.
Shes back up in one piece and almost ready to ride I just gotta put the faring on.
I owe carl an apology and a thank you.
11-14-2016, 03:06 PM
#1973
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Crux I could kiss you! You saved my ***. You don't have to go that far, but no problem. That's what this forum is for. 
I loosened both CCT's in the pouring rain. Loosening the CCT to much will make for more problems than a little to tight. You already rebuilt the head once.
rode it to my other work site. I could hear the poor guide howling, Didnt know what was making that horrible sound. Got home and low and behold after pulling the cam cover off. I had it 5mm too tight. No slack in the chain. Couldnt even get side slop on it. That noise you were hearing was, from what I understand, the timing chain pushing past the oil film and rubbing against the hard plastic on the guide. Being to tight will also make the engine hard to start. You will also hear the starter making wierd noises while it strains itself trying to start the engine.
I think I can blame my **** retentiveness on it. It was indeed too loose before as I thought the chain had to have more slack in it from the picutres. I now know its a tight 5mm of play. This time I used my micromiter and judgment that a chain should have side play.Side play has nothing to do with it. It is the the up & down 5-7mm of play you should be concerned about. For instance, you replaced your rear tire, so you had to set the drive chain tension. You do this by measuring the up & down play of the chain. I'm assuming you did this? This is exactly how you will measure the slack of the timing chain between the two cams. Understand? Remember, timing chain slack can only be measured when whichever cylinder you are working on is at TOP DEAD CENTER.
On another note. I doubt that you could wipe out a cam journal as I thought I did. You can if it is way too tight. You could push away that thin protective layer of oil and have metal on metal contact.
but the chain guides are super long in the vtr which is why they have to be loose. In most cars the chains feel like they are welded on but they also have jets shooting a film of oil between the guide and the chain. YOu could indeed snap a chain as tight as I had it.
Shes back up in one piece and almost ready to ride I just gotta put the faring on.
I owe carl an apology and a thank you.
People have put tens of thousands of miles on thier motorcycles after following Carls very simple guide with no reported issues. If you are unsure how to figure out the correct tension of the timing chain, I believe thier is a video in Carls guide showing you exactly how to do it.
My advice, go set the correct tension and just be done with it. And did I read in another post that you dont have a jam nut on your homemade CCT? You need one of two things to keep the bolt from backing out. Either use a jam nut or wire tie it. Simple.
I loosened both CCT's in the pouring rain. Loosening the CCT to much will make for more problems than a little to tight. You already rebuilt the head once.
rode it to my other work site. I could hear the poor guide howling, Didnt know what was making that horrible sound. Got home and low and behold after pulling the cam cover off. I had it 5mm too tight. No slack in the chain. Couldnt even get side slop on it. That noise you were hearing was, from what I understand, the timing chain pushing past the oil film and rubbing against the hard plastic on the guide. Being to tight will also make the engine hard to start. You will also hear the starter making wierd noises while it strains itself trying to start the engine.
I think I can blame my **** retentiveness on it. It was indeed too loose before as I thought the chain had to have more slack in it from the picutres. I now know its a tight 5mm of play. This time I used my micromiter and judgment that a chain should have side play.Side play has nothing to do with it. It is the the up & down 5-7mm of play you should be concerned about. For instance, you replaced your rear tire, so you had to set the drive chain tension. You do this by measuring the up & down play of the chain. I'm assuming you did this? This is exactly how you will measure the slack of the timing chain between the two cams. Understand? Remember, timing chain slack can only be measured when whichever cylinder you are working on is at TOP DEAD CENTER.
On another note. I doubt that you could wipe out a cam journal as I thought I did. You can if it is way too tight. You could push away that thin protective layer of oil and have metal on metal contact.
but the chain guides are super long in the vtr which is why they have to be loose. In most cars the chains feel like they are welded on but they also have jets shooting a film of oil between the guide and the chain. YOu could indeed snap a chain as tight as I had it.
Shes back up in one piece and almost ready to ride I just gotta put the faring on.
I owe carl an apology and a thank you.
People have put tens of thousands of miles on thier motorcycles after following Carls very simple guide with no reported issues. If you are unsure how to figure out the correct tension of the timing chain, I believe thier is a video in Carls guide showing you exactly how to do it.
My advice, go set the correct tension and just be done with it. And did I read in another post that you dont have a jam nut on your homemade CCT? You need one of two things to keep the bolt from backing out. Either use a jam nut or wire tie it. Simple.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 11-14-2016 at 03:12 PM.
11-14-2016, 06:39 PM
#1974
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 345
I have a jam nut!!! Forgot to mension it. I do plan on drilling for a wire when I get a better set up.
UPDATE: For giggles. DOne coasted my bike 6.4 kilometers or 3 miles. Not because of an engine failure but a memory failure. Went to the bank and pulled money to get gas. Went to work. On my way back I said I gotta get gas.... Went to Mcdonalds. Got to the just before the highest point of the mountain and ran out. I had enough kinetic energy to go all the way home. that is both down and up hill mind you!!!
I am fibbin a bit as I did have to push it for 30 feet at the top of the second hill! But 6.4k I laughed my *** off when I cruised into the fire station. So did the other firemen there!
UPDATE: For giggles. DOne coasted my bike 6.4 kilometers or 3 miles. Not because of an engine failure but a memory failure. Went to the bank and pulled money to get gas. Went to work. On my way back I said I gotta get gas.... Went to Mcdonalds. Got to the just before the highest point of the mountain and ran out. I had enough kinetic energy to go all the way home. that is both down and up hill mind you!!!
I am fibbin a bit as I did have to push it for 30 feet at the top of the second hill! But 6.4k I laughed my *** off when I cruised into the fire station. So did the other firemen there!
Last edited by RedStormJ; 11-15-2016 at 08:04 AM.
11-17-2016, 02:30 PM
#1976
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
IIRC, the OEM air filter includes projections that close off the top of the sub air filter boxes. I have a K&N filter and that came with two small rubber caps that fit over the sub air filters and in turn are held in place by the main filter.
11-17-2016, 02:50 PM
#1977
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bisbee, AZ
Posts: 1,873
They are meant to do that it's Hondas equivalent of seafoam they clean the valves and combustion chambers on the way through the engine you replace them every 20,000 miles or so
