What did you do with your SuperHawk today?
09-03-2015, 11:18 AM
#1501
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 171
Ordered clamps, new titanium header wrap, stainless steel tie wraps, new donut gaskets, new exhaust gaskets, high temp RTV sealant, an exhaust tube expander (mandrel) to fix all my terribly deformed PO mistakes with hose clamps, and steel wool/cleaner to brighten everything up.
Hope to fully redo the whole exhaust then acquire some new Two Bros cannister clamps and actually have a 100% working system
This weekend may also see my new Radial MC, and SP1 calipers with Verash pads put on once I grind the forks a little to accept them
Labor day indeed
FYI to anyone installing an aftermarket lever or even OEM
I had to modify parts to get my new OEM radial from Nissin to work. The lever it came with would engage the piston slightly even at full rest. The aftermarket lever was even worse but I was able to grind off the section that prevented it from returning fully and engage the brake switch properly, then 3D printed a new bushing with a 1.65mm deeper hole to only engage the MC piston when the lever is actuated. These Chinese levers are full of surprises, to my amazement though, the OEM setup was also incorrect..
Hope to fully redo the whole exhaust then acquire some new Two Bros cannister clamps and actually have a 100% working system
This weekend may also see my new Radial MC, and SP1 calipers with Verash pads put on once I grind the forks a little to accept them
Labor day indeed
FYI to anyone installing an aftermarket lever or even OEM
I had to modify parts to get my new OEM radial from Nissin to work. The lever it came with would engage the piston slightly even at full rest. The aftermarket lever was even worse but I was able to grind off the section that prevented it from returning fully and engage the brake switch properly, then 3D printed a new bushing with a 1.65mm deeper hole to only engage the MC piston when the lever is actuated. These Chinese levers are full of surprises, to my amazement though, the OEM setup was also incorrect..
Last edited by ren; 09-03-2015 at 11:31 AM.
09-03-2015, 12:50 PM
#1502
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Fran Freako
Posts: 393
Fireblade front end finally installed.
Yes I have to paint the fender Honda color Y-124P.
I am using Woodcraft 3" riser bars for now. Although I wish I would have tried the Heli bars first since they are "one piece" and maybe back a little bit compare to these.
I can't even test ride it right now due to a recent bicycle crash that left me with a fractured elbow.
However, it started right up after my carb work, goes 'Vroom Vroom" and idles nicely.
Yes I have to paint the fender Honda color Y-124P.
I am using Woodcraft 3" riser bars for now. Although I wish I would have tried the Heli bars first since they are "one piece" and maybe back a little bit compare to these.
I can't even test ride it right now due to a recent bicycle crash that left me with a fractured elbow.
However, it started right up after my carb work, goes 'Vroom Vroom" and idles nicely.
09-03-2015, 04:13 PM
#1504
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
Our roads are a lot rougher then most. Im on a C34 build on my GVs. Am going to try a C32 with another little mod to give it better mid turn hold.
C34 is to harsh. Also going to give my Ohlins to KSS to be revalved as its to harsh. It is a common complaint here with stock Ohlins.
C34 is to harsh. Also going to give my Ohlins to KSS to be revalved as its to harsh. It is a common complaint here with stock Ohlins.
I did have C33 in my VTR (albeit with big-port Showa pistons not GVs) but have decided to give 32 a try for a while. I just changed those last weekend so haven't ridden on them yet. Ever since I installed my refurbished Ohlins shock, the forks don't feel quite as good as they did!
09-04-2015, 05:50 AM
#1505
Member
Squid
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 32
Ren, If it were me I would find a comparable or slightly smaller sized piece of heavy walled pipe, put the heavy walled pipe in a vice, and slide the exhaust end over it. Then reshape with a soft faced mallet. The mallet (I like weighted nylon faced ones) will not scar or ding the surface and should leave it very smooth. YMMV.
Oops......I see now that you bought a mandrel. If you have trouble getting the overlapped portion back over you may try using a "soft chisel". I make them from hard wood or old plastic cutting boards. They also will transfer a lot of force without scarring metal.
Oops......I see now that you bought a mandrel. If you have trouble getting the overlapped portion back over you may try using a "soft chisel". I make them from hard wood or old plastic cutting boards. They also will transfer a lot of force without scarring metal.
Last edited by Tantofolder; 09-04-2015 at 05:58 AM.
09-04-2015, 07:05 AM
#1506
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 171
Ren, If it were me I would find a comparable or slightly smaller sized piece of heavy walled pipe, put the heavy walled pipe in a vice, and slide the exhaust end over it. Then reshape with a soft faced mallet. The mallet (I like weighted nylon faced ones) will not scar or ding the surface and should leave it very smooth. YMMV.
Oops......I see now that you bought a mandrel. If you have trouble getting the overlapped portion back over you may try using a "soft chisel". I make them from hard wood or old plastic cutting boards. They also will transfer a lot of force without scarring metal.
Oops......I see now that you bought a mandrel. If you have trouble getting the overlapped portion back over you may try using a "soft chisel". I make them from hard wood or old plastic cutting boards. They also will transfer a lot of force without scarring metal.
09-08-2015, 11:12 PM
#1508
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
I had C33 in my VFR and tried C31 and C32, now settled on C32. C31 feels too slushy, 34 too harsh, 32 has been the best compromise, running 5W Motul oil.
I did have C33 in my VTR (albeit with big-port Showa pistons not GVs) but have decided to give 32 a try for a while. I just changed those last weekend so haven't ridden on them yet. Ever since I installed my refurbished Ohlins shock, the forks don't feel quite as good as they did!
I did have C33 in my VTR (albeit with big-port Showa pistons not GVs) but have decided to give 32 a try for a while. I just changed those last weekend so haven't ridden on them yet. Ever since I installed my refurbished Ohlins shock, the forks don't feel quite as good as they did!
How is that C32? Im about to Pull my lowers to polish them so may re-vavle at the same time.
09-09-2015, 02:34 AM
#1509
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Fitted these ****** !
Just threw them in and rode. A mate was following me through some twisties and reported smelling unburnt fuel.
So back home and pulled the carbs, turned the mixtures in a 1/2'turn and bliss.
Idles nice, actually dropped from 1500 to 1250 and sounds crisp.
Responds well to the throttle from the get go with no flat spots.
Revs like a banshee, and sounds like a bunch of Sheila's at a Barby.
Really happy with the result and definitely has boosted the midrange when using WOT from 4,000 upwards.
Bike responds really well to the throttle and drops straight back to idle.
Changing the mixture affected the sync more than I thought it would.
Is there anyway to get rid of the plastic bottle and hoses into the airbox ?
I reckon that the hose is interrupting the airflow as shown in the pics.
I intend to go for a long ride on the weekend and pull the plugs to make sure that the mixtures are right.
Sure seems to be running right after the adjustments though!
Just threw them in and rode. A mate was following me through some twisties and reported smelling unburnt fuel.
So back home and pulled the carbs, turned the mixtures in a 1/2'turn and bliss.
Idles nice, actually dropped from 1500 to 1250 and sounds crisp.
Responds well to the throttle from the get go with no flat spots.
Revs like a banshee, and sounds like a bunch of Sheila's at a Barby.
Really happy with the result and definitely has boosted the midrange when using WOT from 4,000 upwards.
Bike responds really well to the throttle and drops straight back to idle.
Changing the mixture affected the sync more than I thought it would.
Is there anyway to get rid of the plastic bottle and hoses into the airbox ?
I reckon that the hose is interrupting the airflow as shown in the pics.
I intend to go for a long ride on the weekend and pull the plugs to make sure that the mixtures are right.
Sure seems to be running right after the adjustments though!
09-09-2015, 04:57 AM
#1510
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 189
Installed a new front Dunlop Roadsmart II last night after chewing through the edges of a ContiMotion.
Roadsmart II rear is wearing nicely after 2,000 miles of twisties - can't wait to get the front one on.
ContiMotion rear was bald as a babies bottom at 2,000 miles.
Oops, sorry, just posted about tires.
Love this bike in the twisties! Can't wait to get the forks re-sprung and re-valved and the shock shimmed up this winter
Roadsmart II rear is wearing nicely after 2,000 miles of twisties - can't wait to get the front one on.
ContiMotion rear was bald as a babies bottom at 2,000 miles.
Oops, sorry, just posted about tires.
Love this bike in the twisties! Can't wait to get the forks re-sprung and re-valved and the shock shimmed up this winter
09-09-2015, 07:03 AM
#1511
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Fran Freako
Posts: 393
"......sounds like a bunch of Sheila's at a Barby."
I'm not sure what that sounds or looks like, but will keep an open mind.
The stacks look nice! I thought you had a custom hydro tank prop there for a second. But it's a hammer.
I'm not sure what that sounds or looks like, but will keep an open mind.
The stacks look nice! I thought you had a custom hydro tank prop there for a second. But it's a hammer.
Last edited by Hangfly; 09-09-2015 at 11:37 AM.
09-09-2015, 12:10 PM
#1514
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,478
I think most just trim the plastic support real short, drill a hole through it, and then cable tie the hose close to the bottom of the air box. (what i did) But at least one guy fitted breathers to the valve covers and eliminated the hoses from inside the box.
09-09-2015, 12:53 PM
#1515
Thread Killer
SuperBike
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Geneseo, IL
Posts: 2,017
Yes, he appears to have the elusive, custom, hydraulic tank prop rod mod rarely seen in the wild; or, it may just be bad lighting and a mallet. Either way, James will be adding this to his OCMD list.
09-09-2015, 12:57 PM
#1516
Thread Killer
SuperBike
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Geneseo, IL
Posts: 2,017
09-09-2015, 02:57 PM
#1519
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
I just posted about this in another thread:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...perhawk-33472/
09-11-2015, 11:38 AM
#1520
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Crux,
Thanks for that!, I'll have a look.
VTR,
Here in OZ we don't use mallets on shielas(women) only on Drongos(Men of dubious character) or as tank props for VTR1000F motorcycles.
Be aware, not just any mallet, special ones with magical powers only that come from the mythical land of China .
These can be found in tool shops that sell cheap crap that usually only lasts for one job.
I have been extremely lucky to have found this special mallet about 30 years ago and since then it has become an essential part of my tool kit and seen service on many bikes with fantastic, almost magical results.
It's powers are in the line of "Sometimes, Less is more"
I feel very privileged to be the current keeper of this magical tool and ultimately will hand it down to one of my sons when I shuffle off this mortal coil to ensure that it's powers live on.
Thanks for that!, I'll have a look.
VTR,
Here in OZ we don't use mallets on shielas(women) only on Drongos(Men of dubious character) or as tank props for VTR1000F motorcycles.
Be aware, not just any mallet, special ones with magical powers only that come from the mythical land of China .
These can be found in tool shops that sell cheap crap that usually only lasts for one job.
I have been extremely lucky to have found this special mallet about 30 years ago and since then it has become an essential part of my tool kit and seen service on many bikes with fantastic, almost magical results.
It's powers are in the line of "Sometimes, Less is more"
I feel very privileged to be the current keeper of this magical tool and ultimately will hand it down to one of my sons when I shuffle off this mortal coil to ensure that it's powers live on.
09-11-2015, 10:27 PM
#1523
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
Started my day lifting the needles in my Bandit 1200, lifting the bars on it and adjusting the chain. Then moved on to making some highway pegs for my partners bike.
Once that was done went back to polishing my swingarm. Getting there but still a little milky in places.
Once that was done went back to polishing my swingarm. Getting there but still a little milky in places.
09-12-2015, 01:44 PM
#1524
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
I went for a 360Klm ride yesterday and the bike is running strong.
Going to re sync the carbs and give the mixtures a final tweak.
After reading posts about the breathers I think that I will just lower the hose in the airbox and leaver well enough alone.
Going to re sync the carbs and give the mixtures a final tweak.
After reading posts about the breathers I think that I will just lower the hose in the airbox and leaver well enough alone.
09-12-2015, 05:44 PM
#1526
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Fran Freako
Posts: 393
'Once that was done went back to polishing my swingarm. Getting there but still a little milky in places.'
That is looking pretty nice!!
I am working on the same thing. I decided to get a little crazy and sand away at the cast sections of the swinger too. My plan is so polish, then lightly brush and anodize it. Not sure of the shade I will choose yet. Natural, grey, black? even considered blue. Anyone like and use the anodized look for bike aluminum parts?
That is looking pretty nice!!
I am working on the same thing. I decided to get a little crazy and sand away at the cast sections of the swinger too. My plan is so polish, then lightly brush and anodize it. Not sure of the shade I will choose yet. Natural, grey, black? even considered blue. Anyone like and use the anodized look for bike aluminum parts?
09-12-2015, 06:20 PM
#1527
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Spokes, that looks nice man!
I am finally getting around to welding on the brace to my extra Superhawk swingarm. As I am cleaning the extra swingarm with some Simple Green, it starts to shine, I mean, REALLY shine! The swingarm was seriously so full of crap and dirty when I recieved it, I never noticed it was polished to a mirror finish. Someone put a lot of elbow grease into that swingarm. To bad it's getting powdercoated gloss black.
I am finally getting around to welding on the brace to my extra Superhawk swingarm. As I am cleaning the extra swingarm with some Simple Green, it starts to shine, I mean, REALLY shine! The swingarm was seriously so full of crap and dirty when I recieved it, I never noticed it was polished to a mirror finish. Someone put a lot of elbow grease into that swingarm. To bad it's getting powdercoated gloss black.
09-12-2015, 09:23 PM
#1529
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
09-13-2015, 09:08 AM
#1530
Senior Member
SuperBike
SuperBike
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,509
That is a very good method, but in my opinion needs a couple more steps:
After 1200 dry go to 1000 wet, then 1200 wet. That will GREATLY reduce the milkiness, and will produce amazing depth to your polish work.
I've hand polished way too much in my life, and the wet sanding is a key ingredient.
After wet sanding i slather the part with Mother's mag and aluminum polish, then use a high speed buffing wheel. I do the Mother's process twice.
All these steps equal an amazingly deep, rich polish.
James
After 1200 dry go to 1000 wet, then 1200 wet. That will GREATLY reduce the milkiness, and will produce amazing depth to your polish work.
I've hand polished way too much in my life, and the wet sanding is a key ingredient.
After wet sanding i slather the part with Mother's mag and aluminum polish, then use a high speed buffing wheel. I do the Mother's process twice.
All these steps equal an amazingly deep, rich polish.
James
