New VTR Owner - 01 Superhawk
01-06-2011, 11:04 AM
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New VTR Owner - 01 Superhawk
So i picked up a super hawk for a pretty good price, well, what I thought was a good price, I may have paid an extra couple hundred for it... That said she needs some TLC. The major things i can see right now are sprockets and chain and that she should probably have the valves checked and put back into speck, though there's not really any ticking or noise that concerns me. Just that it has 23k on it and he said they've never been checked. The guy mentioned, AFTER he had the wire transfer confirmation (ugh) something about a gasket on the opposite side of the clutch cover, it being about $6 and easy to replace and also something about excess oil or oil coming from there but not a lot and that's the reason for the gasket? Anyhow, this again was all said after the sale, if you guys can provide and insight into the situation I would greatly appreciate it... However, i must say that with a little work and some new parts and a good cleaning and gone over, I think my hawk wil be pretty freaking cool and I really look forward to learning how to work on thsi specific bike. It seems there's a lot you can do to/with one ofr these and with the new training I'm about to embark on I think I've made a great choise and you guys will see the bike go from how she sits to something unrecognizable when comparing the before and afters... Mind you this is going to take place over time and I still have yet to come up with a feasible plan which I feel I can execute without too much of a headache.....
I think the order should simply be to get the bike running tip freakign top and then worry about suspension and brakes next and finally cosmetic type stuff... Sounds abott right, yeah?
At first I need very basic stuff, sprockets, front and rear, chain. Carbs cleaned out, are there any options for upgrading the carbs as I upgrade the performance of the bike after I ensure it's durability is in order? Let's see what else, I could use a fluid flush, complete. The bike has steel braided line already, do they wear out? Would replacing the braided lines with new ones be advantageous at all? Of course new brake pads front and back. He;s got these tires on the too, think they're Bridgestone Bt-106's, they're newish, less than 1000 miles on the set but they make me uncomfortable so off they come and on go a new set of power pilots....
I terms of the sprocket and chain, what's your opinions of which way to go in this area? I'll probably go down one in the front up one or two in the back and grab a new chain. Also going to need a speedo healer as well. What are some of your opinions on which way(s) to go in this direction. Now we come to the valves and general motor once over. I've recently signed up for two classes along with my other courses (longer, way longer story), Introduction to Motorcycle Technology and Motorcycle General Maintenance this semester and Engine and Power-Train and Electrical, Tune-Up/Perform next semester....Hopefully we'll be doing valve adjustments, of course I know we're not going to start at valve clearances but maybe I can parlay my enrollment in class for a free lesson on valve spec checking on 2001 Honda Super Hawks?
Not looking for anyone to go shopping for me or anything... i'm plenty capable of doing research and have been doing quite a bit of reading since the 31st of Dec when I bought it. since I just got my lisc worked out today and waiting for the computers to update all i can do is read about the many ways of customize a hawk, go outside and start my hawk up and listen to the loud thumping and pretend to ride thought the twisties. That said, if anyone has purchased a hawk that needed some similar TLC when they picked it up and have any advice they might offer I'd be much appreciative.
Blink
Picss as soon as i can have the seller forward them to me because I have no camera : ( Gotta get one to document the hawk's rise to beyond freaking secy...
I think the order should simply be to get the bike running tip freakign top and then worry about suspension and brakes next and finally cosmetic type stuff... Sounds abott right, yeah?
At first I need very basic stuff, sprockets, front and rear, chain. Carbs cleaned out, are there any options for upgrading the carbs as I upgrade the performance of the bike after I ensure it's durability is in order? Let's see what else, I could use a fluid flush, complete. The bike has steel braided line already, do they wear out? Would replacing the braided lines with new ones be advantageous at all? Of course new brake pads front and back. He;s got these tires on the too, think they're Bridgestone Bt-106's, they're newish, less than 1000 miles on the set but they make me uncomfortable so off they come and on go a new set of power pilots....
I terms of the sprocket and chain, what's your opinions of which way to go in this area? I'll probably go down one in the front up one or two in the back and grab a new chain. Also going to need a speedo healer as well. What are some of your opinions on which way(s) to go in this direction. Now we come to the valves and general motor once over. I've recently signed up for two classes along with my other courses (longer, way longer story), Introduction to Motorcycle Technology and Motorcycle General Maintenance this semester and Engine and Power-Train and Electrical, Tune-Up/Perform next semester....Hopefully we'll be doing valve adjustments, of course I know we're not going to start at valve clearances but maybe I can parlay my enrollment in class for a free lesson on valve spec checking on 2001 Honda Super Hawks?
Not looking for anyone to go shopping for me or anything... i'm plenty capable of doing research and have been doing quite a bit of reading since the 31st of Dec when I bought it. since I just got my lisc worked out today and waiting for the computers to update all i can do is read about the many ways of customize a hawk, go outside and start my hawk up and listen to the loud thumping and pretend to ride thought the twisties. That said, if anyone has purchased a hawk that needed some similar TLC when they picked it up and have any advice they might offer I'd be much appreciative.
Blink
Picss as soon as i can have the seller forward them to me because I have no camera : ( Gotta get one to document the hawk's rise to beyond freaking secy...
01-06-2011, 11:19 AM
#2
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Congrats on your purchase and welcome to a site where you'll find tons of related (and unrelated) knowledge. Unfortunately, I have none, just a Hawk I like to ride around on. The smart guys will be along shortly to hit on your questions. Always remember to SEARCH for what you want first and put your location in your posts in case someone might live near you.
01-06-2011, 12:10 PM
#3
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something about a gasket on the opposite side of the clutch cover, it being about $6 and easy to replace and also something about excess oil or oil coming from there but not a lot and that's the reason for the gasket?
If the seal fails then fluid can dribble out from around the sprocket cover onto the kickstand. Needs a few more parts than just a gasket... but then it could be the alternator cover which is another story altogether - investigate it first to find the ultimate cause.
Slap a HD X-ring chain & sprockets on and don't forget to download the VTR Honda service manual (link should be in the workshop section if you haven't done already)
And post pics!
Last edited by Wicky; 01-06-2011 at 12:13 PM.
01-06-2011, 10:11 PM
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Thanks guys for being so welcoming! I look forward to learning tons and contributing when I can. I think I came across a stock clear windshield so i might throw that up in the freebies section just to start my karma off right here...
Blink
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01-06-2011, 11:11 PM
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Tons of advice coming, but I can give you a warm up:
+2 in the back (for 16/43) seems to be the better way to go. Having a smaller front sprocket puts more stress on the crank and wears the teeth faster. Plus, you use the stock length chain and you get a slightly smaller wheelbase so a faster turn in. But the debate on this is great and track racers especially all haver their preferences.
There is a pretty recent thread on valve clearance around here- I think that it's titled "waited too long" or something like that. The honda OEM manual will get you started on that on, and you'll probably have questions so you can just hop in and ask. I believe that I have a thread from awhile back asking similar noob questions too....
I also purchased a hawk in less than perfect condition (and probably paid too much as well haha!) but hey now it's yours! I rode it around for awhile, replaced the CCT's and eventually decided to rebuild the whole thing after discovering some frame damage. I find things here and there that show it's neglect, but it's a honda and can pretty much run if dropped off of a building.
I'm also fairly certain that the steel braided lines won't wear out on you unless you do something drastic to them (like pour water down and let it sit).
The carbs/airbox on this bike are very picky so be careful and do research before you decide on anything. Many mods that work for smaller carbs don't have the same effect.
Finally, if you haven't figure it out yet, CCT's and R/R are on the short list of things to be done so make sure you look into those as their failure cause much damage to the bike.
Anyway, welcome to the forum! You'll probably soon figure out the big minds around here- they won't hesitate to correct ye if ye's made a poor judgement call
+2 in the back (for 16/43) seems to be the better way to go. Having a smaller front sprocket puts more stress on the crank and wears the teeth faster. Plus, you use the stock length chain and you get a slightly smaller wheelbase so a faster turn in. But the debate on this is great and track racers especially all haver their preferences.
There is a pretty recent thread on valve clearance around here- I think that it's titled "waited too long" or something like that. The honda OEM manual will get you started on that on, and you'll probably have questions so you can just hop in and ask. I believe that I have a thread from awhile back asking similar noob questions too....
I also purchased a hawk in less than perfect condition (and probably paid too much as well haha!) but hey now it's yours! I rode it around for awhile, replaced the CCT's and eventually decided to rebuild the whole thing after discovering some frame damage. I find things here and there that show it's neglect, but it's a honda and can pretty much run if dropped off of a building.
I'm also fairly certain that the steel braided lines won't wear out on you unless you do something drastic to them (like pour water down and let it sit).
The carbs/airbox on this bike are very picky so be careful and do research before you decide on anything. Many mods that work for smaller carbs don't have the same effect.
Finally, if you haven't figure it out yet, CCT's and R/R are on the short list of things to be done so make sure you look into those as their failure cause much damage to the bike.
Anyway, welcome to the forum! You'll probably soon figure out the big minds around here- they won't hesitate to correct ye if ye's made a poor judgement call
01-08-2011, 03:02 PM
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Tons of advice coming, but I can give you a warm up:
+2 in the back (for 16/43) seems to be the better way to go. Having a smaller front sprocket puts more stress on the crank and wears the teeth faster. Plus, you use the stock length chain and you get a slightly smaller wheelbase so a faster turn in. But the debate on this is great and track racers especially all haver their preferences.
+2 in the back (for 16/43) seems to be the better way to go. Having a smaller front sprocket puts more stress on the crank and wears the teeth faster. Plus, you use the stock length chain and you get a slightly smaller wheelbase so a faster turn in. But the debate on this is great and track racers especially all haver their preferences.
There is a pretty recent thread on valve clearance around here- I think that it's titled "waited too long" or something like that. The honda OEM manual will get you started on that on, and you'll probably have questions so you can just hop in and ask. I believe that I have a thread from awhile back asking similar noob questions too....
) I've come to the conclusion that the steering head, or head bearing (not sure on the proper terminology???) needs replacing also as when I go over bumps you can feel the front end wiggle a bit front to back... Anyone know what causes this? Could it be it needs something like a simple tightening? Also the obvious is just more obvious, the bodywork needs to be completely shed and redone. I'm wondering what options there are besides shark skins and that guy over in Europe who has yet to respond to my email about pricing (damn it, thought I had him bookmarked, he did a member's tail, looks sick, think it's carbon fiber, **** now I have to find that guy again!) but has sick *** parts that look equally sick in the expense department... Any sources for complete body work? Carbon Fiber or other?I also purchased a hawk in less than perfect condition (and probably paid too much as well haha!) but hey now it's yours! I rode it around for awhile, replaced the CCT's and eventually decided to rebuild the whole thing after discovering some frame damage. I find things here and there that show it's neglect, but it's a honda and can pretty much run if dropped off of a building.[/quote]
I'm also fairly certain that the steel braided lines won't wear out on you unless you do something drastic to them (like pour water down and let it sit).
The carbs/airbox on this bike are very picky so be careful and do research before you decide on anything. Many mods that work for smaller carbs don't have the same effect.
The carbs/airbox on this bike are very picky so be careful and do research before you decide on anything. Many mods that work for smaller carbs don't have the same effect.
Anyway, welcome to the forum! You'll probably soon figure out the big minds around here- they won't hesitate to correct ye if ye's made a poor judgement call[/quote]
Right on thanks having me around... Seems like the best place for a hawk owner to congregate and seek out knowledge from other's who've already made their hawks kick ****!
01-08-2011, 03:26 PM
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Another quick idea as I read more about the CCT issue... Maybe initially I find myself some heads, have some head work done, port and polish maybe, then as I install the new CCT's I can do the new heads right then and won't have to worry about thaty becoming an issue, pretty much ever again.... I suppose replacing the CCT's and checking the valve clearence is probably more cost efficient though.... I do like to make things complicated though. How much extra power could be expected from a new massaged top end on a Hawk?
01-08-2011, 05:25 PM
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Well, you're pretty worried about valve clearance checking and I don't think that it's an issue that is catastrophic... your motor will just run less and less smoothly, but it takes quite a bit of abuse before bits are knocking around causing damage. The CCT replacement with manuals takes an afternoon if you're working slow and being careful and doing it the first time. Takes an hour if you're good!
My uneducated opinion is that as long as you're paying for name brand chains and getting O or X ring seals you're good. Lots of people here run DID... and the stock 102 length will work with the wheel pulled all the way forward and +2 in the back.
This is again my opinion, but many of the people focus more of their initial energy working out the suspension as these bikes are running on 1998 sport/touring technology and could use an upgrade. Swingarm, front forks, rear shock, brakes, that sort of thing all are noticeable upgrades. Engine mods get pretty pricey, although for a quicker rev-up you can lighten the flywheel.. check out mikster- he just did a full rebuild of his engine with all the good performance stuff.
Good chance your steering head bearings are just worn- replace them with AllBalls tapered bearings which don't cost any more and won't wear out as fast. Plus they turn smoother....
I picked up most of this stuff by picking around on the forum, so not a bad idea to double check...
My uneducated opinion is that as long as you're paying for name brand chains and getting O or X ring seals you're good. Lots of people here run DID... and the stock 102 length will work with the wheel pulled all the way forward and +2 in the back.
This is again my opinion, but many of the people focus more of their initial energy working out the suspension as these bikes are running on 1998 sport/touring technology and could use an upgrade. Swingarm, front forks, rear shock, brakes, that sort of thing all are noticeable upgrades. Engine mods get pretty pricey, although for a quicker rev-up you can lighten the flywheel.. check out mikster- he just did a full rebuild of his engine with all the good performance stuff.
Good chance your steering head bearings are just worn- replace them with AllBalls tapered bearings which don't cost any more and won't wear out as fast. Plus they turn smoother....
I picked up most of this stuff by picking around on the forum, so not a bad idea to double check...
01-08-2011, 07:46 PM
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Well, you're pretty worried about valve clearance checking and I don't think that it's an issue that is catastrophic... your motor will just run less and less smoothly, but it takes quite a bit of abuse before bits are knocking around causing damage. The CCT replacement with manuals takes an afternoon if you're working slow and being careful and doing it the first time. Takes an hour if you're good!
My uneducated opinion is that as long as you're paying for name brand chains and getting O or X ring seals you're good. Lots of people here run DID... and the stock 102 length will work with the wheel pulled all the way forward and +2 in the back.
This is again my opinion, but many of the people focus more of their initial energy working out the suspension as these bikes are running on 1998 sport/touring technology and could use an upgrade. Swingarm, front forks, rear shock, brakes, that sort of thing all are noticeable upgrades. Engine mods get pretty pricey, although for a quicker rev-up you can lighten the flywheel.. check out mikster- he just did a full rebuild of his engine with all the good performance stuff.
Good chance your steering head bearings are just worn- replace them with AllBalls tapered bearings which don't cost any more and won't wear out as fast. Plus they turn smoother....
I picked up most of this stuff by picking around on the forum, so not a bad idea to double check...
My uneducated opinion is that as long as you're paying for name brand chains and getting O or X ring seals you're good. Lots of people here run DID... and the stock 102 length will work with the wheel pulled all the way forward and +2 in the back.
This is again my opinion, but many of the people focus more of their initial energy working out the suspension as these bikes are running on 1998 sport/touring technology and could use an upgrade. Swingarm, front forks, rear shock, brakes, that sort of thing all are noticeable upgrades. Engine mods get pretty pricey, although for a quicker rev-up you can lighten the flywheel.. check out mikster- he just did a full rebuild of his engine with all the good performance stuff.
Good chance your steering head bearings are just worn- replace them with AllBalls tapered bearings which don't cost any more and won't wear out as fast. Plus they turn smoother....
I picked up most of this stuff by picking around on the forum, so not a bad idea to double check...
In terms of my plan for the bike, for right now it goes something like this...
1. Ensure the engine is good and won't crap and can take the abuse that I'm sure I'll put it through every single day of it's life.
2. Do what i can in terms of re-attaching the body and tightening that all up so that it's not so unattached at so many different points and so that the rattles (not that there are many, but enough to be annoying) stop and generally the bodywork won't fall off while I again am spanking it's *** daily.
3. Replace the front end. Right now I'm thinking 954rr with an upgraded (from the 954rr) rotors and probably racetech springs and an Ohlins steering damper. Other than that (with the front end) I have to piece together what I feel is going to make the best handling bike possible for me. I like the flick-able feeling my 06 gix 600 had, obviously this bike will never turn in that quick, but I'd like to get her close.
4. I really really like how that Rc51 swingarm looks on the hawk. It's just ******* sexy and since I haven't read anything about it, my god there's a lot of catching up to do, I don't know much about the conversion except i think I remember reading it raises the ride height a bit. I like that for a couple reasons, I'm 6'4" and if I'm not mistaken it actually helps the bike turn in quicker because of the raised center of gravity? Also included here will be a choice rear shock, more than likely Ohlins if possible, we'll see....Custom rotor to match the bike's scheme, matte black, matte red and matte gold with all the anodized bits to match...
Now, between #3 & #4 I'd like to acuire an extra motor and start to build it. Again, no research has been done so i don't exactly know what's possible here either, but I'm initially thinking bore it our a bit, more aggressive cam, nice rods, do they make a high performance crank?, pretty trick heads, cam, you know a solid, fire breathing monster but built to be a daily driver.... However that's accomplished with the hawk I have yet to find out, but since I'll be doing all the work myself, and making many mistakes along the way i know it's going to be a fun time, frustrating at other times, but in the end the motor will be sick. If the moons all align themselves then as soon as step five is complete, the freshly built fire breather will be dropped into the bike and the Hawk will be complete....
5. Complete new set of body work, possibly new tank (possibly possibly like the vfr conversion I saw here, maybe not though, but maybe a custom one similar in shape, I like the height on that particular example. Reminds me of the old zx7r tank like structure....) I like the stock upper's look so I'm thinking sharkskins there but I also really really really ******* love carbon fiber... . I also like chin spoilers so I have to find one I like that will fit the overall scheme, perhaps gold and red carbon with an OEM inspired "HONDA" painted in matte black? Then a tail and accompanying subframe...here I have much work to do... But since it's the second to last step, I have the most time and I'm sure ideas will come and evolve as the project gets underway and continues to move forward...
6. Dump firebreathing monster motor into redone SuperDuperHawk, punch in 10 digit code into custom ignition keypad and fire that bitch up.
7. Ride like hooligan.
[Pretty good for only having bought the bike new years eve... CAN'T FREAKING WAIT for classes to start.....
01-08-2011, 08:13 PM
#13
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Welcome. Sounds like you're ready to twist wrenches. This bike is the most fun I've ever had on 2 wheels.
What's the issue with the BT 016's? I've had mine for about 5,000 miles now, and I love them. Great grip, easy mid corner line changes and they're wearing great. Performance wise, best tire I've ever ridden on, with over 190,000 miles of street riding.
What's the issue with the BT 016's? I've had mine for about 5,000 miles now, and I love them. Great grip, easy mid corner line changes and they're wearing great. Performance wise, best tire I've ever ridden on, with over 190,000 miles of street riding.
01-09-2011, 12:00 AM
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Bridgestone something or other tire.... Had them on when i went down on my gix in 07 at the recommendation of a shop, they said just as good as a set of power pilots but cheaper... Wasn't the tire but my hooligan riding that caused me to go down but I still don't feel comfortable on them...Switching them out as soon as I'm done buying gear....
01-09-2011, 11:33 AM
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I've come to the conclusion that the steering head, or head bearing (not sure on the proper terminology???) needs replacing also as when I go over bumps you can feel the front end wiggle a bit front to back... Anyone know what causes this? Could it be it needs something like a simple tightening?
Also the obvious is just more obvious, the bodywork needs to be completely shed and redone. I'm wondering what options there are besides shark skins and that guy over in Europe who has yet to respond to my email about pricing (damn it, thought I had him bookmarked, he did a member's tail, looks sick, think it's carbon fiber, **** now I have to find that guy again!) but has sick *** parts that look equally sick in the expense department... Any sources for complete body work? Carbon Fiber or other?
http://web.tiscalinet.it/mario_nava/vtr1000_b_e.html
01-09-2011, 11:43 AM
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The front to back "wiggle" is the steering head bearings. The best bet would be to replace them with the kit from All ***** that has the tapered bearings.
You would be talking about Mario Nava:
http://web.tiscalinet.it/mario_nava/vtr1000_b_e.html
You would be talking about Mario Nava:
http://web.tiscalinet.it/mario_nava/vtr1000_b_e.html
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