Today I was riding when I came up to the light the bike died. I got to push it for a while looking like an ***. Anyway its totally dead no lights nothing. I charged the battery thinking it might be that. Battery is fully charged now and still nothing. Any suggestions?

 

Something just makes me think of the Regulator Rectifier, but I am not someone who is an expert by any means. Maybe someone else can verify for you!

 

+1 on that...any other symptoms? I too am by no means a expert on the matter but I know my R/R has gone but it isn't a consistent problem. Do your gauges periodically go out or flicker, if you're coasting down the road and then engage the clutch will the bike sometimes shut off? or is this the first time this has happened?

 

This is the first time it has happened. I just got the bike yesterday......lucky me

 

what is a Regulator Rectifier? what does that cost?

 

#1) Changes A/C to D/C to charge the battery

#2) About $80 used

http://www.amazon.com/2000-Honda-100.../dp/B000ZYZVIM


A lot of people will put the R/R from a Yamaha R1, apparently they are a little beefier - I still have the stock one though.


I would check on your fuses first though.


Good Luck

 

i'd also check your 30A main fuse which is under the rear tail on the driver's left side across from the R/R

 

research all the forums on this site, you'll find a lot of good info on what you're looking for, heres something to start on...

http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/

 

Definitely check the main fuse first. My bike died similarly to how you describe, when I went hunting I found the main fuse blown. Investigate from there, something caused that. The culprit in my situation was the R/R being toast, I bought a new one from Rick's motorsport electrics.

 

Test the bike voltage with a multimeter after changing that main fuse, just to make sure that the fuse did not blow from a too high tension (pushing more current trough accessories), you don't want to toast your coils and ICM
May be an intermitent short too, check the battery connections too, you may get power on the battery terminals but not on the bike

 

If you go with a stock R/R the later version with cooling fins seem to hold up much better... my '02 has the later version and I believe they came out on the '01 and later models. Good luck with it.

 

you can get them off ebay for resonable, just make sure it is finned.. most Hondas of that generation use the same one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-H...Q5fAccessories

 

Don't buy a used R/R.... your just asking to have it happen again.... If it was the R/R... usually you'd notice the bike slowly selectively shutting things down prior to shutting off... lights go out, tach stops working... then kaput. Your battery will be dead or damn near dead as well.

Anyway... I got mine from here...

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

It's a finned unit.... and haven't had an issue...

J.

BTW... I actually believe 90% of R/R failures happen within 4 weeks of a owner buy the bike... mine lasted a whole 3 weeks before I was stuck on a busy parkway with no shoulder in Sunday afternoon traffic!!!

 

The one I linked to is new, and aftermarket for $49 plus $8 shipping..

 

+1 on not buying used. Here is another place to check out.
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/

 

Have you cleaned your cables and battery posts?

 

I have cleaned my battery and posts. Others that I have talked to say probably not the r/r , it wouldn't have stopped all at once i would have seen surges to the lights/tach going in and out etc. so hopefully just a fuse.

 

It is probably a fuse.. but it is also still likely to be the R/R too (what caused the fuse to blow) If you have a volt meter, once you get the bike running again, put it on the battery and let us know the voltage you see at idle and at 5500 rpm.