One exhaust getting hotter+popping
#1
One exhaust getting hotter+popping
Here is my question/problem..
I know I have and exhaust leak, but recently I started noticing that one of the mufflers (right one) gets hotter (way hotter) than the other. Didnt seem to bother me at first but I think its been getting hotter with time, I have an exhaust leak because the mechanic didnt put the exhaust sleeves after working on the bike. I know is an easy fix but I purchased a new to me set of pipes that Ill hopefully install soon.
My question is, what can make one exhaust get hotter than the other? cans didnt get too hot before now the right one gets very hot after a short 10 minute ride.
also, Im low on gas and it started popping while decelerating, loud and even popping. Im trying to run it dry light started blinking ~15 miles ago. I never had the bike popping loud before...
Thanks for the help..
JON
I know I have and exhaust leak, but recently I started noticing that one of the mufflers (right one) gets hotter (way hotter) than the other. Didnt seem to bother me at first but I think its been getting hotter with time, I have an exhaust leak because the mechanic didnt put the exhaust sleeves after working on the bike. I know is an easy fix but I purchased a new to me set of pipes that Ill hopefully install soon.
My question is, what can make one exhaust get hotter than the other? cans didnt get too hot before now the right one gets very hot after a short 10 minute ride.
also, Im low on gas and it started popping while decelerating, loud and even popping. Im trying to run it dry light started blinking ~15 miles ago. I never had the bike popping loud before...
Thanks for the help..
JON
#3
The leak is right at the bottom closer to the right exhaust. I know now that its not the gas. I just filled it up and the popping continues. Performance wise it feels the same just a very uneven idle while warming up and a little hesitation. But unce warm it feels normal. I had someone look at it a while back and got the carbs synchronized and run great.. Im getting ready to do an oil change but dont want to if the engine needs to be looked at. Ill fix the leak and see if thats the problem but my pipes didnt used to get hot at all before... Thanks.
#4
Would be interesting to measure the header temps at the cylinder head.
Have you pulled the plugs to have a look?
I haven't noticed a difference in temps between sides, but I have never checked either. It's the exhaust, they get hot.
Have you pulled the plugs to have a look?
I haven't noticed a difference in temps between sides, but I have never checked either. It's the exhaust, they get hot.
#5
Ill check the sparks today.. I dont have an IF thermometer so cant measure the temp. My Erion racing exhaust didnt used to the get hot like this. I used to ride it for hours and I could still put my hand on the mufflers, now the right one gets really really hot... I cant touch it at all and the left one is basically cold. When the bike is running I can feel both exhaust working. Both blow the same amount of fumes for what I can tell. Thanks JON
#6
You might try pulling the enrichment **** (choke) while riding and see what the engine does. Is the jetting stock? Valves lash in spec?
I a little confused on the current exhaust that is on the bike now. You stated that you "had" Erion cans. What is on there now? Not that would(?) really make any difference, but something has changed. Since no IR, have you done a touch comparison on just the header where it exits the head? I would expect the front to be a little cooler relative to the rear. Without an actual measurement you may not be able to tell, but worth a try.
My exhaust (stock) is too hot to really touch after it has run for a short while.
I a little confused on the current exhaust that is on the bike now. You stated that you "had" Erion cans. What is on there now? Not that would(?) really make any difference, but something has changed. Since no IR, have you done a touch comparison on just the header where it exits the head? I would expect the front to be a little cooler relative to the rear. Without an actual measurement you may not be able to tell, but worth a try.
My exhaust (stock) is too hot to really touch after it has run for a short while.
#7
You might try pulling the enrichment **** (choke) while riding and see what the engine does. Is the jetting stock? Valves lash in spec?
I a little confused on the current exhaust that is on the bike now. You stated that you "had" Erion cans. What is on there now? Not that would(?) really make any difference, but something has changed. Since no IR, have you done a touch comparison on just the header where it exits the head? I would expect the front to be a little cooler relative to the rear. Without an actual measurement you may not be able to tell, but worth a try.
My exhaust (stock) is too hot to really touch after it has run for a short while.
I a little confused on the current exhaust that is on the bike now. You stated that you "had" Erion cans. What is on there now? Not that would(?) really make any difference, but something has changed. Since no IR, have you done a touch comparison on just the header where it exits the head? I would expect the front to be a little cooler relative to the rear. Without an actual measurement you may not be able to tell, but worth a try.
My exhaust (stock) is too hot to really touch after it has run for a short while.
thanks for your help... Thanks 8541Hawk too, for helping me with every little problem I had working on my bike..
#8
When I first got my Hawk both pipes got really hot. Ive got Yoshi's. I decided to look in the cans to see if they needed re-packing. They had no packing in them. Not a bit. Guess a previous owner had removed it to improve the sound or something. I re-packed them and theyare fine now.
#9
So I took out the tank and the air box just to find out that PO already removed the PAIR system.. lol In another post someone mention that maybe the idle jets are dirty so I decided to clean the carbs as much as possible without removing them and I noticed a little plug was missing ( I happened to find it in my garage a few weeks ago lol) so the one that blocks the T connector by the front carb was missing. I dont know how much it missing could affect the bike, but its part of the pair system. So I cleaned the carbs as much as I could, Im devating if I should just take them out and go through them. It would be my 1st time so Im still waiting for the "right one" like a virgin.. (problem)
hahaha.
the blue nipple on the bottom right was missing..
hahaha.
the blue nipple on the bottom right was missing..
Last edited by jonjonsocal; 10-24-2014 at 03:12 PM.
#11
Missing Nipple!
What about the missing O-ring to air box seal on the front carb. Make sure that you have that in place on the carb when it goes back together. if it is stuck to the bottom of the air box it might not line up right when you put it back together,
#12
I keep the garage pretty clean. And a little blue thing sticks out big time lol.. It look cool so i saved it. Hahah Im putting everything back together today so ill be keeping my fingers crossed.. Thanks
#13
I got it.. I took it out to clean/ inspect it.. Thanks
#14
The missing plug was the problem! Now it runs and idles smooth. Got all of my ponies back too! So for those having the same idling and starting problems DONT forget to check your plugs and check for vacuum leaks. Just that little plug made my bike start hugly, idle rough, exaust pop and made me really really stressed.. Lol feel a lot better now. Kids dont have to hide when I come from the garage anymore.... Thanks for all the help.. Specially Mike (8421hawk)
#16
Funny thing is, just because of the little plug that fell off, my bike got iridium plugs, clean k&n filter, new home made oil breather filters, fisheye front signals, small LED rear blinkers, LED compatible flasher, new exaust gasket, mobil 1 synthetic oil, new radiator coolant and i also made 2 spare keys for it lol.. It was fun.. I drove my buddy crazy texting him about every little question i had about the bike..
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11-22-2005 08:37 PM