My superhawk won't turnover
My 1999 superhawk won't turnover
I just bought my 1999 superhawk a couple days ago. Only has 16k miles on it. It would turn on with no issue. Today I wanted to go ride and it sounded like it wanted to turn over then stopped and made a fast clicky noise. I let it sit and it sometimes makes the clicks and other times it won't do anything I pushed started it and it fires up but my gauges will turn on and off. I'm hoping its the battery. Can I please get some feedback on what I should look at. Also when I push start it it will stay running. Just Won't fire up
Last edited by Krazymikey17; Jun 25, 2018 at 12:52 PM.
My 1999 superhawk won't turnover ... Training a superhawk is diff cult they are temperamental and slow learners.. Dont use negative reinforcement... Try treats.
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ok ok ok
Sounds like a dead battery, if so the question is, battery only or charging system, that caused a dead battery.
Do you have a volt / ohm meter and know who to use it? As that is the least of what you will need to move forward
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ok ok ok
I just bought my 1999 superhawk a couple days ago. Only has 16k miles on it. It would turn on with no issue. Today I wanted to go ride and it sounded like it wanted to turn over then stopped and made a fast clicky noise. I let it sit and it sometimes makes the clicks and other times it won't do anything I pushed started it and it fires up but my gauges will turn on and off. I'm hoping its the battery. Can I please get some feedback on what I should look at. Also when I push start it it will stay running. Just Won't fire up
Do you have a volt / ohm meter and know who to use it? As that is the least of what you will need to move forward
Last edited by E.Marquez; Jun 25, 2018 at 01:29 PM.
But it could be as simple as the battery is dead.
All diagnosis needs to start with a tested, known good battery...so have the battery tested (even NEW can be faulty, so one rule of electrical diagnosis, nothing is a good part until tested good, and tested good parts yesterday could be bad today, test again)
Get a mid price digital volt Ohm meter (so not from the dollar store, but does not need to be a $600 fluke,,,,,,though if you want High end i have some recommendations and they all start with Fluke MDL:XXXX) and I or others here can walk you through the stator, regulator, charging system testing.
Last edited by E.Marquez; Jun 26, 2018 at 04:10 AM.
Easy to visually check ;-)

Also an easy eyeball check is to look for corrosion on the starter motor terminal bolt under the rubber hood (keep greased up). But as Me E has said it revolves around the battery and charging system with fundamental tests.

Also an easy eyeball check is to look for corrosion on the starter motor terminal bolt under the rubber hood (keep greased up). But as Me E has said it revolves around the battery and charging system with fundamental tests.
Last edited by Wicky; Jun 26, 2018 at 03:14 AM.
I checked my rectifier and it seemed like it was loose. I took it off and put back on and charged my battery and my bike started right up and I don't seem to be losing any charge on my battery. I really appreciate all the input. You guys are amazing
Do still get, buy, borrow a volt ohm meter and do the charging system checks. And as you have time and a few bucks, swap in a MOSFET RR, upgrade the wiring ..it is an easy mod that is a great reliability bit of work.
Clicking from a starter while trying to start an engine for a car, bike, Jetski, or whatever.... typically means there isn't enough energy... This can be due to a worn down starter, poor contacts... Wiring degraded... Or, in most cases, a drained battery...
The starter needs a lot of juice, so it is directly connected to the battery in most engine wiring diagrams with a switch controlling a relay to trigger the juice ( as they are grounded through the engine ).....
The starter needs a lot of juice, so it is directly connected to the battery in most engine wiring diagrams with a switch controlling a relay to trigger the juice ( as they are grounded through the engine ).....
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