My 1999 superhawk won't turnover
I just bought my 1999 superhawk a couple days ago. Only has 16k miles on it. It would turn on with no issue. Today I wanted to go ride and it sounded like it wanted to turn over then stopped and made a fast clicky noise. I let it sit and it sometimes makes the clicks and other times it won't do anything I pushed started it and it fires up but my gauges will turn on and off. I'm hoping its the battery. Can I please get some feedback on what I should look at. Also when I push start it it will stay running. Just Won't fire up
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My 1999 superhawk won't turnover ... Training a superhawk is diff cult they are temperamental and slow learners.. Dont use negative reinforcement... Try treats.
. . . . .| ok ok ok
Originally Posted by Krazymikey17
(Post 406618)
I just bought my 1999 superhawk a couple days ago. Only has 16k miles on it. It would turn on with no issue. Today I wanted to go ride and it sounded like it wanted to turn over then stopped and made a fast clicky noise. I let it sit and it sometimes makes the clicks and other times it won't do anything I pushed started it and it fires up but my gauges will turn on and off. I'm hoping its the battery. Can I please get some feedback on what I should look at. Also when I push start it it will stay running. Just Won't fire up
Do you have a volt / ohm meter and know who to use it? As that is the least of what you will need to move forward |
No I don't have one but I can go purchase one. If its a charging problem would it be the alternator
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Originally Posted by Krazymikey17
(Post 406620)
No I don't have one but I can go purchase one. If its a charging problem would it be the alternator
But it could be as simple as the battery is dead. All diagnosis needs to start with a tested, known good battery...so have the battery tested (even NEW can be faulty, so one rule of electrical diagnosis, nothing is a good part until tested good, and tested good parts yesterday could be bad today, test again) Get a mid price digital volt Ohm meter (so not from the dollar store, but does not need to be a $600 fluke,,,,,,though if you want High end i have some recommendations and they all start with Fluke MDL:XXXX) and I or others here can walk you through the stator, regulator, charging system testing. |
I could repeat what Erik posted but I'll save space. He's spot on.
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Easy to visually check ;-)
http://cl.ly/3a07121d413T/vtr-R-R-small.jpg Also an easy eyeball check is to look for corrosion on the starter motor terminal bolt under the rubber hood (keep greased up). But as Me E has said it revolves around the battery and charging system with fundamental tests. |
I checked my rectifier and it seemed like it was loose. I took it off and put back on and charged my battery and my bike started right up and I don't seem to be losing any charge on my battery. I really appreciate all the input. You guys are amazing
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Originally Posted by Krazymikey17
(Post 406676)
I really appreciate all the input. You guys are amazing
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Originally Posted by xeris
(Post 406677)
just wait until you ask about tires and oil. |
Originally Posted by Krazymikey17
(Post 406676)
I checked my rectifier and it seemed like it was loose. I took it off and put back on and charged my battery and my bike started right up and I don't seem to be losing any charge on my battery. I really appreciate all the input. You guys are amazing
Do still get, buy, borrow a volt ohm meter and do the charging system checks. And as you have time and a few bucks, swap in a MOSFET RR, upgrade the wiring ..it is an easy mod that is a great reliability bit of work. |
Clicking from a starter while trying to start an engine for a car, bike, Jetski, or whatever.... typically means there isn't enough energy... This can be due to a worn down starter, poor contacts... Wiring degraded... Or, in most cases, a drained battery...
The starter needs a lot of juice, so it is directly connected to the battery in most engine wiring diagrams with a switch controlling a relay to trigger the juice ( as they are grounded through the engine )..... |
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