When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I order my parts from Service Honda in Hammond Indiana. They have an easy site to search from and great prices. I prefer oem friction discs and plates. And replace the springs,they are cheap. I use Barnett springs they are only about 10% stiffer than oem. The trouble your having shifting sounds like the clutch not disengaging fully,the time I had a slipping clutch on my Hawk was caused by weak springs. I replaced the discs and plates that showed no measurable wear or
glazing and still had a slipping clutch under load. Then I went back in and replaced the springs.Problem solved.
I'd make sure that master and slave cylinder are clean/not full of gunk and properly working. How often have you bled the system w/ fresh fluid? 67k isn't bad from a clutch. EBC makes a great replacement kit, check out the SRK. Pick your favorite vendor: https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/e...es-clutch-kit/
Barnett isn't a bad name either. OEM is always great but in this case, I'd do an EBC. I've put them in many bikes at the shop. Great quality, little stiffer springs yadda yadda.
Here's what my slave looked like a few years ago when I rebuilt it.
And all the parts I replaced:
Been a looong time since we've chatted! Hope all is well.
The symptoms sound a whole lot more like air in the clutch line than a worn clutch. In the first instance I would be cleaning out the hydraulic circuit and pistons and refreshing the fluid, and then putting in new seals if needed. I recently swapped out the seals in my slave cylinder as it had developed a weep, and have previously inspected the clutch discs but they were in great shape at nearly 90,000km.
Thanks everyone - I have new fluid in there from - either this Spring or last year - I change all brake & clutch fluid every two years & use syn.
As stated, I've noticed slippage over the last year or 2.
Some pics from trip in June with son on his R6. Rode secondary roads from Lehigh Valley Pa to WVa & Va. Great trip - Rt. 33 in WVa is awesome. Was by Germany Valley and Second pic is the infamous Smoke Hole Rd in WVa. - Top Case & Dry Bag strapped behind me & I can travel anywhere.
Thanks everyone - I have new fluid in there from - either this Spring or last year - I change all brake & clutch fluid every two years & use syn.
As stated, I've noticed slippage over the last year or 2.
Some pics from trip in June with son on his R6. Rode secondary roads from Lehigh Valley Pa to WVa & Va. Great trip - Rt. 33 in WVa is awesome. Was by Germany Valley and Second pic is the infamous Smoke Hole Rd in WVa. - Top Case & Dry Bag strapped behind me & I can travel anywhere.
Looks like quality time!
If you're confident in the hyro's, Get yourself a clutch kit and slap it in there. It's easy to do.
I’ll throw this out there as another possibility. Do you have after market levers? Some have been known to apply pressure to the master when not pulled.
More likely what has been previously suggested, but....
I’ll throw this out there as another possibility. Do you have after market levers? Some have been known to apply pressure to the master when not pulled.
More likely what has been previously suggested, but....
Thanks - in fact I do.
I installed Pazzo adjustable levers after I destroyed both on a trip 2 or 3 yrs ago
I’ll throw this out there as another possibility. Do you have after market levers? Some have been known to apply pressure to the master when not pulled.
More likely what has been previously suggested, but....
Especially if not installed correctly... as I learned a few years ago.
The first thing you should do is just pull the clutch plates out and measure them. Check the steels for overheating or wear, If they are in spec just change the springs and reinstall. If that doesn't fix it, change the slave.
