Maybe clutch?
#1
Maybe clutch?
I recently bought a 98 super hawk. I drove it around and ran it through the gears before purchasing. the bike would shut off after it would idle for a minute or two but I believe it is do to needing carb adjustment. I decided to drive the bike home and after 10 minutes I went put it in 1st gear and slowly let out the clutch and nothing happened. I revved up to 7k rpms and the clutch grabbed hard. I did an oil change but no luck. do you think its the clutch? what parts do I need to replace? this is my first sport bike.
#2
Yes the clutch. Sounds like the plates are worn out of friction material and/or the springs are sacked. You can open the engine cover with the oil still in if you tip the bike a bit. You can remove the plates to inspect them.
It also may be getting hung up on the clutch basket and not sliding well.
It also may be getting hung up on the clutch basket and not sliding well.
Last edited by smokinjoe73; 04-08-2016 at 10:55 PM.
#5
Well, the clutch is not a hard repair if you have general mechanical abilities. Take note of disassembly order and replace the fiber discs, reassemble in the exact order. It is also possible if you share your location, one of this forums members may be able to help for a small token of appreciation of course.
How many miles are on the bike?
How many miles are on the bike?
#7
If you haven't yet, download the pdf Service Manual in the link below:
superhawk996.net
Once you see what's under the engine cover and also what you need to do, it isn't that hard.
Also, take a look at the Knowledge Base here to learn A LOT about your VTR.
Concerning the bike shutting off, you will want to sync your carbs. Do a search for the "two bottle" method. For me, it seems to be not only the easiest, but just about the cheapest as well.
superhawk996.net
Once you see what's under the engine cover and also what you need to do, it isn't that hard.
Also, take a look at the Knowledge Base here to learn A LOT about your VTR.
Concerning the bike shutting off, you will want to sync your carbs. Do a search for the "two bottle" method. For me, it seems to be not only the easiest, but just about the cheapest as well.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 04-09-2016 at 07:35 AM.
#8
If you do service the clutch you will need a set of friction discs, new springs, and the clutch cover gasket. I ordered parts from Partzilla, OEM gasket and EBC discs and springs. A rubber mallet is handy to encourage the clutch cover to come off. The top fairing and water pump need to come off to do the job, but you only need basic tools like a 5mm allen key, 8, 10 and 12mm socket. A torque wrench should be used on the bolts that hold the springs in, they are easy to snap by all accounts.
#11
Aw man...All that info on friction and steel plates, gaskets etc wasted?
Now that's what I call Occam's hammer. Good move. Most guys would just hand it to a shop that would replace every part even near the clutch as well as the battery, tires and chain.
Carry on.
Now that's what I call Occam's hammer. Good move. Most guys would just hand it to a shop that would replace every part even near the clutch as well as the battery, tires and chain.
Carry on.
#15
Well, the important thing is you are back on the bike.
Keep an eye out for air finding its way back into the system. (any change in clutch action). Just in case there is an inherent issue. Hopefully he changed the fluid but they usually don't if they just say "bleed".
Keep an eye out for air finding its way back into the system. (any change in clutch action). Just in case there is an inherent issue. Hopefully he changed the fluid but they usually don't if they just say "bleed".
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