Any reason not to mod valve shims by hand?
08-02-2007, 11:50 PM
#1
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Any reason not to mod valve shims by hand?
Nobody local has the shim I need. I need to go from 1.925mm to 1.844mm..........don't feel like ordering and waiting a week. Why can't I just use glass, oil, and 400 wet/dry paper to skinny it up? I have a micrometer to chck along the way.
08-03-2007, 07:40 AM
#2
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Location: Buffalo, NY
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If you can get it to the proper size and uniform throughout I don't see why you couldn't except for possibly loosing any heat treating/case hardening thats used in the manufacturing process (if its even done on these)... probably will take a while to do but should work.
08-03-2007, 09:28 AM
#5
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World Champion
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If they're coated/plated then it's not a good idea. The coating/plating prevents wear and once that's gone then you're ***-out. Just order one from somewhere. Overnight or 2-day shipping on a shim should only be about $10.
08-03-2007, 09:57 AM
#6
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Well, anxious to get back on the road...I have been thinking about this all night. These little pucks are only spacers. They take up specific amounts of room between the valve stem top and the lifter cup. Nothing moves across it's surface like a cam does against the lifter cup. I'm sure they're high carbon steel but I bet they're not case hardened or plated. They have little numbers acid-etched or media-blasted into one side from the factory so surface integrity doesn't sound like an issue. I need to skinny one down .001" and the other .003" so I'm going to do it this morning. If I put on my super magnifier glasses and see that I've worn thru plating or that the metal changes color beyond it's surface...I'll throw'em out and order new ones. Back inna while........
08-03-2007, 10:05 AM
#7
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If the shim is an underbucket type then you might get away with trying to sand is down. But it might be easer to take it to a machinest and have it done right. If it is an under bucket you might be able get an assortment of shim stock and work with a few different sizes till you put together what you need. Do you realy think its worth shorting the job by trying this? Be patient order the part you need, do right the first time!
08-03-2007, 11:08 AM
#8
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Done. Used 600 first but that wasn't going anywhere. 320 worked perfectly. Thick glass plate, the paper, oil, figure 8s, and careful micrometer checks every minute. Finished off with 600 for a smooth surface.
I have done plenty of lapping in my time..I know how to do it right. I even got them to EXACTLY the thickness I needed, as opposed to having to use shims that only come in .25mm increments.
Not to worry guys.....I'm not the kind of guy that just buys shiny bits, bolts them on and calls myself a biker......I get neck deep in anything I own. Built a few very nice customs over the years...mostly classic BritBikes. Sure do love this Honda though.....
I have done plenty of lapping in my time..I know how to do it right. I even got them to EXACTLY the thickness I needed, as opposed to having to use shims that only come in .25mm increments.
Not to worry guys.....I'm not the kind of guy that just buys shiny bits, bolts them on and calls myself a biker......I get neck deep in anything I own. Built a few very nice customs over the years...mostly classic BritBikes. Sure do love this Honda though.....
08-03-2007, 07:23 PM
#10
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OK...PHEW! All back together and just back from a ride up the mountain......here's the report.
Did the TPS adjust...it was way up there...now it's 487
Installed APEs
Installed a Coerce fork brace
Put a long tunnel on the front carb
Brought all valves to spec (what a pain inna ace job THAT is)
JB welded all the gaping holes in the airbox the DPO left after installing a KN
Cut out the divider in the snorkel and took out that plastic cross member in the cover
Sync'ed the carbs
Results?
Front end feels much more confident....if that makes sense.Makes the shortcomings of the stock rear even more obvious. Definite improvement...could feel it right away.
Idles and runs from 000 to 4000 very smoothly now and has lots of yummy ooomph in that range too...right from the bottom! Engine braking, accel, cruising, all very nice. Very worth the efforts of the last couple of days.
There you have it.
Next batch of play money gets the Gold Valves and springs and real rear shock.
Did the TPS adjust...it was way up there...now it's 487
Installed APEs
Installed a Coerce fork brace
Put a long tunnel on the front carb
Brought all valves to spec (what a pain inna ace job THAT is)
JB welded all the gaping holes in the airbox the DPO left after installing a KN
Cut out the divider in the snorkel and took out that plastic cross member in the cover
Sync'ed the carbs
Results?
Front end feels much more confident....if that makes sense.Makes the shortcomings of the stock rear even more obvious. Definite improvement...could feel it right away.
Idles and runs from 000 to 4000 very smoothly now and has lots of yummy ooomph in that range too...right from the bottom! Engine braking, accel, cruising, all very nice. Very worth the efforts of the last couple of days.
There you have it.
Next batch of play money gets the Gold Valves and springs and real rear shock.
08-11-2007, 08:26 PM
#12
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 75
why ??
Did the TPS adjust...it was way up there...now it's 487
Put a long tunnel on the front carb
Sync'ed the carbs
thanks
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