waterbug89

also the emulsion tubes are backwards have been that way since i owned the bike so how does that effect the bike

waterbug89

thanks to the know how of every one here they will be back in there right home

waterbug89

ok one more problem to the puzzle after further inspection between the new jets and the old jets they have been drilled i dont know to what so i dont know were to go from here for a new size

8541Hawk

So there is one more hole than this pic?




Also the spring I was asking about is the long one that comes out when you remove the cap to pull the slide out.

waterbug89

yep one more hole lower left corner the other spring is 5.5 inches long

8541Hawk

Well you have part of a DynoJet kit in there. The bad part is this is the kit I like the least and no the least about.

I will have to do a little checking to find out what size mains to recommend.

To answer your other questions, the star on the jet means it is a jet made by Keihin, but as the one you have are drilled out they need to be replaced.

The emulsion tubes being wrong would effect how the bike comes on to the mains.

Did you have any of the carb parts that were removed when the kit was installed? or the jets from the kit?

I ask this because you should not really try to mix and match parts. So you would need to find out if anyone around you sells Dynojet jets or order some.

Either that or pick up some stock needles and slide springs.

waterbug89

i can try or should i see if any one has a diff jet kit, for now to keep riding i was thinking of just moving the clips to the number three spot it doesnt take me long to tare it apart i just enjoy riding to work so in that case i can keep it under the bad spot, so if it was yours would you start back to stock or what jet kit do you recomend

waterbug89

this is how i bought the bike i only took the carbs apart to clean them the bike sat for 6 years the first go around then the previous owner that had the work done took it to the shop to get it running and was still scared of riding so it sat for another three years then i bought it cleaned it up got it running and i have about 500 miles on it in the last three weeks and just been doing research to try to get it running perfect what ever that is?

waterbug89

also why do you think they did the third hole unlike yours is that going to hurt me in the long run

waterbug89

if i move the clip to the third slot it will reduce my fuel upon throttle right so it should not hurt any thing till i get it figured out right is how i am assuming it works?

8541Hawk

Yes to get you running right now you need to drop the needle.

The 3rd grove would be much better than you have now but you might even want to try the 2nd one. There should be a washer that goes between the c-clip and the slide when you put the needle back in. The c-clip should never ride on the plastic of the slide.

If there were no washers between the clip and slide then pick up a pack of #4 washers to use there.

Now to dial everything in, personally I would go back to the stock set up except for the pilot (or slow) jet plus a couple other tricks.

I guess it's time for the "how I set up SH carbs" thread and why I believe it works better than any of the available jets kits.

8541Hawk

The third hole in the slide is a DynoJet kit mod. They do it to get the slide to open faster. This works on many bikes but on this bike I don't believe it is the way to get it to run its best.

They are no problem though because if you go with a different set up you can just epoxy them closed and not have to replace the slides.

waterbug89

ok sounds great so i will start getting stock parts but my concern is still the extra hole in my slide whats your thought

waterbug89

thanks that is what my thoughts were but wasnt sure with the fuel it worked on my transfer case but i was worried about the fuel eating the epoxy

waterbug89

what do you recomend on the slow

waterbug89

you give me the info i will have it running by monday if parts are there

waterbug89

hate to keep at it but the info is grea, are the stock needles adjustable and if not should i keep mine?

waterbug89

so my altitude i would be fine stock mains but pilots?

8541Hawk

Well if you go back to stock here is a link with the best prices I have found on stock Honda parts :http://www.hondapartsline.com/fiche_...1998&fveh=4077

so on that page you would need

1ea #3
1ea #7
2ea #12
1ea #36 (175 main jet)
1ea #37 (178 main jet)

you will also need 2ea #48 pilot jet

for you other questions, the stock needles do not have the groves to adjust them but all you need is a couple of #4 washers and you are good to go and will work much better than your aftermarket ones.

You are on the gray area as far as altitude goes. Not quite high enough to really worry about and you should be able to tune for it with no real issues after you get a good base line set up.

waterbug89

ok im game but reasoning would be great you have given me so much info but im wondering why the stock is better i know cause you tried alot of different things so the thread on the reason would be great thanks for your info i will be back on the road tomorrow until i get my oem parts, and my assumption again would be to use the #4 washers in place of the clip to fine dial in, whats the most washes you have run before chnging jets

7moore7

+1. I would donate to this cause!

RCVTR

I was pretty happy with my Dynojet kit. While I agree it is probably not the best available, I do think it is better than running the stock needles, because they are not profiled to be lean at the emissions testing RPMs. Raising the stock needles will help.

I think you would be happier with 175-180 Dynojet jets and start with the needles in the #2 groove from the top.

I say that, because you have open exhaust canisters.

waterbug89

might try that so far i got home today put it back to stock except the needles 175 and 178 got rid of my hickup i tried the #48 pilots did not like them took away from my bottom end put my #45 back in tried both jets tonight with both k&n and stock filter cant believe the diff you would think the k&n would be great but not its junk i guess i will put it on ebay, but getting damn quick about pulling it apart changing the jets kind of sucks rather be riding but its all good got the needles on 3 with stock jets but i think i will try 4&5 tomorrow just to see were im at plus my kid droped my tank and scratched it woops so sunday its going to be cold so pull it off and paint it yeh just what i wanted to do oh well **** happens

waterbug89

is there a big diff between the stock jets and the dyno jets and if so what?

Tweety

The difference between all the different parts from different suppliers is the profile of the needle and the jets... Simply put, the parts match each other... The needles and jets are tested together (at least as far as one knows), so mixing and matching isn't a great idea...

If you use stock jet's I'd suggest stock needles... The difference apart from that is stock needles doesn't have a adjustable clip, ie you need shims, but I'd still recommend them (me amongst others...)

Just a small suggestion... Since it seems you haven't really done that much research on your own, go read a few of the older threads... It's for your own benefit... Combining that with a few questions once you have done the reading, and you will get a lot more useful info (and know what to do with it)...

8541Hawk

Here ya go: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=24769

karlpix

waterbug. I am in Denver also what have you come up with. I got a 2000 Hawk and I am tryin do dial in the bike.

SloBlue

My 2c. If you are having trouble dialing in your 'Hawk in Denver and can't get it there on your own, we have a great resource for SH owners. Bart at Faster Motorsports. Bart knows and understands Super Hawks. He even owns and rides the most heavily modified SH you'll ever see!

I had Bart set up my '03 with a stage 2 jet kit. Bart removed the carb heat system, used the Dynojet needles and drilled the jets. The top of my airbox was removed and I installed a K&N filter. Bart set the screws with the bike on the dyno and gave me a printed dyno chart.

This isn't a modification that works well at lower altitudes and, IMO, using advice from flatlanders on how to set up your carbs in Denver isn't ever going to work well.

My SH runs like a bandit. It doesn't hesitate, stumble, pause or otherwise **** me off. Sometimes, there is a hiccup, but I think that's pretty normal with a big twin with giant carbs.

Just to finish off my jet kit nicely, I picked up another airbox off ebay and used the top portion to make a small strip with which to hold down the air filter on the stock bottom portion of the box. ( a mod I picked up here, I think).

Best of luck.