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Pulled the cowl off and removed the FH020AA, man, this new SH847 is a monster..
Not going to get it to fit under the cowl as I had hoped
And found a unpleasant surprize
Nothing some nice new yellow, 12 AWG 37/28 stranding, Tinned copper conductor, Tefzel insulation, -50° to +150° C temperature rated
Tefzel insulated wire is in particular outstanding for it's resistance to oil, oxidation, heat, sunlight and flame; and also it's ability to remain flexible at low temperature. They have excellent resistance to ozone, water, alcohol, gasoline, acids, alkalis, aromatic hydrocarbons and solvents.
in a new Furukawa QLW-F-300 socket with silicone seal cant fix
Well maybe it'll fit..... just maybe... with a bit of trimming.
But it is bigger for sure
The fins JUUUUUUst interfere with the curved lower inside of the cowl, I'll have to trim just a bit.
Always fun to take a cutting tool to a brand new $160 electronic part
Rock solid 14.7v
Perfect for keeping a lithium ion battery charged.
End of the day is a Series style MOFSET RR better than the shunt style MOFSET FH020AA RR that is proven to work on this bike?? probably not..
But my brother just bought a 2000 superhawk and the previous owner a dealer "technician" replaced a failed regulator, with a newer fined style OEM diode regulator which of course failed in short order because this "technician" used crappy auto store crimp spade connectors and plier type crimpers which quickly overheated, melting the wire and shorting out the new regulator.
So I built a plug-and-play wiring harness for the FH020 regulator I had on my bike and sent him an entire package ready to bolt on having to only solder and heatshrink tube three yellow stator wires.
Been running this same unit since the start of the year (after doing some research). What I like is that it's series (or so I have read), which means that it only draws the current it needs from the stator (rather than pulling max from stator and dissipating the excess), meaning the stator runs cooler (should last longer) and reduces parasitic drag on engine.
Been running this same unit since the start of the year (after doing some research). What I like is that it's series (or so I have read), which means that it only draws the current it needs from the stator (rather than pulling max from stator and dissipating the excess), meaning the stator runs cooler (should last longer) and reduces parasitic drag on engine.
Good to hear.. I new I was far from the first to swap an SH875 in, as I have been reading reports for more than a year now while the supply stabilized. With no "need" for a new Reg I was not pushing for the new one to see how they worked.
Once the NEED came up the decision was easy .
The Shindengen company site calls it a series type RR ƒJƒ^ƒƒO”Ì”„b“d‘•»•ib»•iî•ñbV“dŒ³H‹ÆŠ”Ž®‰ï ŽÐ
So pretty confident that it what it is.
I'll do some testing later next month and see if I can "see" the AC voltage effected or the DC voltage "shut off"
So we are at almost a year now and figured I'd report back on all the issues this SH847 series RR has caused.
.....
And done.....
Rock solid voltage @14.7v
Li battery staying charged (something weak charging systems do not do)
No heat issues from the new unit (it sits mere MM from the cowl,,,I half expected it to melt the cowl.
So we are at almost a year now and figured I'd report back on all the issues this SH847 series RR has caused.
.....
And done.....
Rock solid voltage @14.7v
Li battery staying charged (something weak charging systems do not do)
No heat issues from the new unit (it sits mere MM from the cowl,,,I half expected it to melt the cowl.
my experience is the same. I have an LED voltage monitor and it's always in the green (even at idle)...
In the quest to spend more money on "upgrades" that are not really needed, I replaced a perfectly fine Shindengen FH RR with a SH847 series RR.
They are quite a bit bigger. I might have to remake the mounting plate to move the RR down and back a bit.
In the quest to spend more money on "upgrades" that are not really needed, I replaced a perfectly fine Shindengen FH RR with a SH847 series RR.
They are quite a bit bigger. I might have to remake the mounting plate to move the RR down and back a bit.
Im very happy with my install some years later.. gently shaving just a few mm on the lower side of 5 fins allowed the SH847 to fit under the plastic with no fitment issues.
Im very happy with my install some years later.. gently shaving just a few mm on the lower side of 5 fins allowed the SH847 to fit under the plastic with no fitment issues.
Wait, I get it, you shaved yours on the top side, i missed that ,was not where I was looking for the MOD
Nice mounting plate though.
I cheated and just welded studs onto the steel subframe to position it where I wanted
Wait, I get it, you shaved yours on the top side, i missed that ,was not where I was looking for the MOD
Nice mounting plate though.
I cheated and just welded studs onto the steel subframe to position it where I wanted
Yes, I had to trim the top side to get a small amount of clearance to the rear cowl. Grinding on a new $170 part seemed a bit silly. Would have been better a little lower and back, tighter against the stock under tray.
I see what must be a tail tidy on yours. I don't know if that gave you more space to mount a little lower.
07-27-2016, 07:28 PM
