Yeah, its all stock and ready to rock! Well, it will be soon.

 

booo on you...have some *****...I kid I kid

And ruvik, we could have a dance party in my garage lol, thank my woman the next time you see her

 

dilled out my aluminum plat,drilled the undertail. mounted my aluminum plate, mounted the electonics on it.. now time to swap factory plus for weatherpac then wiring

 

I'm just about to start the wiring and my head is already spinning...

 

clipping and stripping and crimping and soldering and crimping and plugging and heat shrinking....

I am having so much fun...

I am not having so much fun...

at least I get to sit on my ***

 

At this point I dont know if I have multiple wounds, or my one wound is just bleeding that much... there is blood everywhere

At least I'm still making progress

 

I have more connectors done than whats pictured but this might hold you over...

 

Good God man. I have heard of people having a green thumb but blue and red doesn't seem to suit you. Electrical looks good so far and I like what you did with the plate and components. Keep up the good (hopefully not so bloody) work.

 

So the only thing that is concerning me is the stock ICU has 13 wires going to it, the ignitech has 11. I just havent had the time to hunt down the pinout for the ignitech to find out whats missing, and the adapter plug on the adapter harness is sealed in a way that i cant see what wire is going to what pin...

 

Time to get out a pencil & paper and a multimeter with continuity tester. Should only take a few minutes to figure it out, I would think.

I wonder if the Ignitech unit does away with the sidestand switch like the HRC ignition unit?

 

hmmmmmm....

so it turns out, the two lines that are left out is pink/white and light green.

The pink/white one goes to the ECT which IIRC is used by the factory ICU to help manage timing advance/retard. Being a programmable unit it makes sense... and there is another temp sensor that goes to the gauges.

And the light green one is for the neutral switch. The starter relay will still utilize the switch and there will be a functioning light at the gauges but the controller dont give a **** lol

 

Hey Scottie,

You should rename the build blood sweat and teers!

What a mammoth effort so far.

I wonder what you will do with all your spare time when you finish her?

Go riding I hope!

 

Oh there has been plenty of blood sweat and tears during this build, well not so many teers, I used to care when I broke things now I just see it as an excersize in creativity

And yea my deadline to have it done and rideable with no issues is the last weekend in august. The following week I am on vacation and want to ride as much as I can

 

well one project I need to do once this is done is make a detailed, color accurate wiring diagram... A good amount of the wires I'm using dont match factory colors, I am documenting what I'm using against what factory is so hopefully when I'm making all my plugs on the harness side of things I can keep it straight

 

but anyways heres where I'm at... clusterfuck best describes it

 

Scottie the Knife!!!

Are you stripping wires wih a utility knife?!!!?? No wire stripper??

Good job on the weather packs! Those should be way better than the stock connections. Man, now i'm tempted to do that this winter too!!!!

James

 

no I was stripping the insulation off of butt crimp teminals because no one stocks uninsulated. Bad technique at first, but after the nice gash I chose a better technique...

dont worry all wires are being stripped, crimped and soldered using the proper tools.

 

I think I ran into my first wiring issue...

So the stator has 3 solid yellow wires coming from it, while making the weatherpack plug for it I marked the wires with 1,2, and 3 dots with a waterproof lab sharpie and did the same to the factory plug so when I make up the harness side of the plug I can keep them straight.

At one point while making the pins, those marks wore off on the wires so I just finished making the plug and got on with life.

Now I do know automotive electrical fairly well. I am aware that those three wires will send 3 sequential wave signals to the R/R. Once at the R/R the negative gets chopped off and the peaks of those signals will be regulated to make a constant/consistent positive signal.

So my question is, do these actually need to be in any specific order?

From my knowledge of how alternators, stators and R/R's work I'm thinking it doesnt matter as long as each wire sends the same signal by way of a properly functioning stator...

Can anyone confirm?

 

nevermind... got confirmation elsewhere... its all good

 

time to get some soldering done... this is my ICU and CDI plug ends

 

soldered, shrink wrapped, zip tied... ICU/CDI end of the harness complete

 

Any updates on the wiring?
We got to work on this idea we had on a workable fuel injection Sys' bro', had some more thoughts

 

Is this phucking thing running yet Scott LOL!

 

His work has been keeping him busy. He's still working on the wiring. Or so I assume

 

you have them adjusted way back Im assuming...Because mine dont hit at all.

 

No updates on the wiring... havent had a chance to work on the bike all week...

Nope, Im an *******

Works been beating me up and Im away for a long weekend, Im gonna call this last week a loss

They are adjusted way back and I cant move them forward due to the big *** bolt I fitted for the brake M/C

 

WAY TO GO DUDE! LOL!

 

when you get a chance can you post a pic of how you bolted the brake master cylinder?

 

Scottie, call me when you back, will go for a ride on my bikes, you need some riding bro', before the end of summer!

 

Scotty,

Where are you dude?

Is the bike finished?

Sorry if I missed something!