thedeatons

I didn't need to really indent for the shock. You should be fine as long as the length is cut right.

jscobey

as long as the length of what is fine?

thedeatons

Sorry, ambiguous... As long as the length of the arms (going back to the rear of the swingarm) are cut to the proper length, and the angle of the front plate is correct, then no need for an indent. I'll look at mine again tonight, I may have made a small round dent with a dolly. I'll post back with this info for you.


James

jscobey

interesting, i was assuming that the length of the arms is exactley the same as when it gets cut off the 900rr swinger. so your supposed to cut the arms shorter?

also did u kind off rounf out the bottom of the box front leg to get it to match the hump where it mounts on the VTR swring?

thedeatons

It may be helpful to check out my pics when you're about to cut into yours.


Length: I cut the very edge off the back, maybe 1/4" - 3/8". I also angled it A LOT back there, so the front part of the brace was angled back, and away from the shock.


On the front brace where it connects to the swingarm: I did dimple that in with a dolly so it would follow the lines of the swingarm behind the shock. You'll need to notch the inside support with a cutoff wheel as deep as you can, then just push the aluminum plate back to take up the gap the notch made.


I angled the front brace where it mounts, so it lays back at a pretty good angle.


Last I taped the brace on before welding, and lifted the swingarm up and down through it's travel. No way could mine ever hit the shock, even bottomed out.


I may be able to post more pics if needed. Hopefully you can find a side shot that shows the angle.


James

jscobey

Okay thanks for taking the time to explain that in a little more depth. I just got the 900rr brace in the mail so when I get the brace cut off I'll be able to understand things a little better but all that makes sense. I'll let you know if I have any more question but you have a lot of pics which have been very helpful.

thedeatons

Winter projects are starting. Pulled the fairing off today, also removed the carbs. Brake assembly was also removed so i could swap the rear master cylinder to a 2003 Honda CRF450R master with built in fluid reservoir...

Pretty excited to hopefully get the frame powdercoated, get a few pieces polished, and sort out my rear brake.

James

thedeatons

Pics of the new brake reservoir. The reservoir bolts right up, no mods required, unlike the cbr600's, who need to ovalize the mounting holes

James

Wolverine

James, plans to get the fork lowers coated to match or are ya goin' USD?

thedeatons

Usd, but that will be later... I can't afford to drop that kinda money at this point. To answer your question fully: eventual plans are a cbr usd fork (not sure which one yet), a cbr600f3 front wheel, and some big wave rotors

James

mikstr

don't mean to be the bearer of bad news, but the F3 front wheel will throw a curve ball into your plans (unless you plan on getting some custom front rotors). You will be better off with a 6 or 5-spoke front wheel from an RC51 (SP-1 or SP-2), as these will give you the look you want, while easily accommodating the larger rotors

thedeatons

For some reason I thought people had use CBR1100XX Blackbird rotors on an F3 front wheel with a Honda USD setup...

Regardless, the goal is a front wheel to match the RR rear wheel. Apparently the jury is still out on which exact one I will need.

James

mikstr

early Blackbird rotors will bolt up to an F3 front wheel, but use a different offset, which brings its own set of challenges. Also, it's 310mm in diameter which, while larger than the VTR (at 296mm), is smaller than the 320-330mm options you can use with an RC51 wheel.....

Ultimately, most things can be made to fit, but this begs the question: how much work are you willing to put into doing so?

xeris

A bit more less than good news. Straight and clean SP2 front wheels are very hard to find and are going to be as much as the USD forks alone, give or take. SP1 a bit less (heaver than SP2 wheels). If you go with CBR USD forks the better price option would be to just get the matching CBR front wheel (they're three spoke) and change back to the stock VTR rear. The CBR wheel is lighter and much more available than either of the RC51 wheels, and no offset issues. Of course none of this matters if your life is not complete without six spoke wheels. lol.

thedeatons

My life is not complete without six spoke wheels


I had planned to use blackbird rotors, and shim them out to the appropriate width using turned down rotor carriers

Now that I know it's 310mm diameter, I can find out which front end that works with with. Anything with radial brakes can easily be shimmed out to match, which was my plan

James

mikstr

04-05 ZX10 forks (what I used, mated to 07 CBR600 triples) will allow you to keep the front wheel and axle (bearings too, need to fab some spacers though). You would only need spacers for the rotors (do a search, I had posted the offset difference at some point) and possibly for the calipers. 07+ CBR600RR forks would do too (20mm axle, 310mm rotors), though I fear they may be too short..... Lots of possibilities; again, how badly do you want to make any combo work?

thedeatons

I'm willing to wait for what looks great, and works best. I'm fine with changing valving and springs, but i need to look at them all and take measurements before deciding anything. The great news is i'll be able to go from dual 296mm rotors to dual 310mm rotors with radial calipers, which is gonna be awesome

Once again though, getting ahead of myself... I need to get the current projects done first

James

mikstr

You can't really argue with physics, and all else being equal, larger rotors will generate more stopping force. That being said, I can assure you that you can get some EXCELLENT results with the stock-size rotors (my current set-up includes Nissin Monoblock calipers from a 09 Daytona 675, Galespeed 17.5x17 MC and ZCOO pads, and I can guarantee you that there is no shortage of power or feel). The key lay in putting together a complimentary combination of parts, the pads in particular making a big difference....

thedeatons

That sounds awesome

James

thedeatons

Progress!

thedeatons

Off the ground.

thedeatons

Strapped to the race stand.

thedeatons

I know there are better, more secure ways, but i'm a little daring

I'm gonna watch it over the next couple days and see how it does. I may pull the front end off Thanksgiving morning. Then i'll need to make that special frame bolt tool out of a socket

James

thedeatons

One step closer...

thedeatons

Another pic.

thedeatons

And another

thedeatons

Last one. Hopefully radiators come off tomorrow.

James

CruxGNZ

You and I are at the same point in teardown. What type of black are you going with on your frame? Gloss, semi gloss, matte? I decided on gloss black for mine. I liked the look of gloss frame with matte finished body work.

Good work so far man.

thedeatons

CruxGNX: Flat black, just like the swingarm. My wheels are gloss black I plan to do the rearsets too, and the radiator guards (screens).


Can anyone help with this frame castle nut question?

It seems there are 3 castle nuts on the frame. The 2 forward nuts look to be the same size. The one toward the back appears to be bigger (pic attached).


I referenced this thread using "search" and saw that it listed a 20mm and a 24mm tool needed: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...l-tools-22476/


Is this the tool I need for these different sized nuts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Clutch-Lock-20mm-24mm-Nut-Combo-Spanner-Socket-Tool-CX-650-GL-650-1983-/261680010138


James

Wicky

Pg 113/406 of the downloadable Honda VTR1000F Service Manual PDF 7-1 Engine Removal

TOOLS
Lock nut wrench 07VMA-MBB0100
Lock nut wrench 07HMA-MR70200


The ebay part you linked to:

This is a brand new Oil Filter & Clutch Hub Spanner Tool.
Color:black
Fit models:
Replaces Honda special tool: # 07716-0020100, 07VMA-MBB0100-101
Removes Honda Locknut: 90231-028-000, 90231-200-010
...
Dimensions:
24mm/ 20mm Spanner