Another New SuperHawk Owner
#1
Another New SuperHawk Owner
I rode one of these bikes for a friend that wanted to sell his bike and was really impressed with it. So much so that a few weeks ago I drove about 300 miles to look at and eventually purchased a yellow 1998 VTR1000F. I have been cleaning, maintaining, and modding the bike for a couple of weeks and finally did a longer (out the city) run a few days ago. Details on that ride can be found here Motorcycle Touring: The "Other" Bike
The VTR1000F is the type of bike you love to go out with but don't introduce to your parents.
tsp
My Blog: Motorcycle Touring
The VTR1000F is the type of bike you love to go out with but don't introduce to your parents.
tsp
My Blog: Motorcycle Touring
#5
The sticker on the rear sub frame under the seat says:
VTR1000FY
Color Y-124P
Code Y124B
What does all this mean? I can't see where it was painted over red. On my friend's bike you can see the original red color wherever the paint is chipped.
tsp
VTR1000FY
Color Y-124P
Code Y124B
What does all this mean? I can't see where it was painted over red. On my friend's bike you can see the original red color wherever the paint is chipped.
tsp
#6
Off the top of my head, Y124B is the paint code for pearl shining yellow. Since the '98 was only made here in R157 italian red, you either have a '99 or a '00, or someone swapped the subframe and the bodywork (the chin was repainted).
Last edited by captainchaos; 01-16-2013 at 03:32 AM.
#7
Nice little blog! You have the right idea with the carbs... if they're running well, don't mess! There's a reason the PO put in the stock stuff and took out the Factory Pro.
And FWIW you can set up the 'Hawk pretty well for touring with some riser bars and a more comfortable seat, but no reason to do that with an RT in the stable.
Look into CCT and R/R replacements to make it reliable (both relatively inexpensive). For real nice suspension work look up Jamie Daugherty on the forum.
And FWIW you can set up the 'Hawk pretty well for touring with some riser bars and a more comfortable seat, but no reason to do that with an RT in the stable.
Look into CCT and R/R replacements to make it reliable (both relatively inexpensive). For real nice suspension work look up Jamie Daugherty on the forum.
#8
VTR1000FY = 2000 model year whatever its worth
#10
I am as interested as Xeris in the Migs slip-ons... Could you take some closer photos of your bike....
#11
Thanks for all the feedback. Let me see if I can answer all the questions and post some pictures.
Mr. Chaos & Mr. Hawk - The paint does look like the Pearl Shining Yellow. I also can't see any red on any of the panels but maybe the entire bike was stripped or the panels were replaced as well as the tank. I got the OEM chin fairing in light gray also. The one on the bike was purchased and painted by owner #2. It is not the same kind of paint as the rest of the bike. Btw, besides the frame sticker and it's yellow code the rear plastic fender has a sticker stating that it meets 2000 regulations. Was this normal for a 1998?
Mr. Moore7 - I've run the tank nearly dry because I want to remove it so I can check the air filter. Owner #1 stated that he had a K&N in it. Since it's running so well I'll clean and keep it... if it looks quality. If not, I'll replace with OEM. Also, I'm planning to replace the R&R and CCT very soon. I'm real happy with the suspension. The one thing I would like to change is to move the bars up and back a bit more than the VFR bars do now. But does any bar do that and not hit the fairing? As it is now the VFR clip ons switch the high beam on whenever I turn all the way right. When turning turning left the fairing just slips between the grip and the start/stop switch gear in the 1/3 inch gap between them! So... is there another clip on or bar that fits that does not require cutting the fairing and provides a little more upright position than the VRF clip ons?
Mr. Xeris & Mr. Allchaos (are you related to Captain?) - I got the bike with 2 OEM sets of cans and the MIG system. I got it with the OEM with 2 holes drilled on the rear plate (the other OEM system looks new) but I installed the MIG system and really like the sound. In addition, it weighs a fraction of what the OEM system weighs. Photos attached if I figure it out.
tsp
The Blog: Motorcycle Touring
Mr. Chaos & Mr. Hawk - The paint does look like the Pearl Shining Yellow. I also can't see any red on any of the panels but maybe the entire bike was stripped or the panels were replaced as well as the tank. I got the OEM chin fairing in light gray also. The one on the bike was purchased and painted by owner #2. It is not the same kind of paint as the rest of the bike. Btw, besides the frame sticker and it's yellow code the rear plastic fender has a sticker stating that it meets 2000 regulations. Was this normal for a 1998?
Mr. Moore7 - I've run the tank nearly dry because I want to remove it so I can check the air filter. Owner #1 stated that he had a K&N in it. Since it's running so well I'll clean and keep it... if it looks quality. If not, I'll replace with OEM. Also, I'm planning to replace the R&R and CCT very soon. I'm real happy with the suspension. The one thing I would like to change is to move the bars up and back a bit more than the VFR bars do now. But does any bar do that and not hit the fairing? As it is now the VFR clip ons switch the high beam on whenever I turn all the way right. When turning turning left the fairing just slips between the grip and the start/stop switch gear in the 1/3 inch gap between them! So... is there another clip on or bar that fits that does not require cutting the fairing and provides a little more upright position than the VRF clip ons?
Mr. Xeris & Mr. Allchaos (are you related to Captain?) - I got the bike with 2 OEM sets of cans and the MIG system. I got it with the OEM with 2 holes drilled on the rear plate (the other OEM system looks new) but I installed the MIG system and really like the sound. In addition, it weighs a fraction of what the OEM system weighs. Photos attached if I figure it out.
tsp
The Blog: Motorcycle Touring
Last edited by Tsperez; 01-16-2013 at 09:43 PM.
#12
Thanks for all the feedback. Let me see if I can answer all the questions and post some pictures.
Mr. Chaos & Mr. Hawk - The paint does look like the Pearl Shining Yellow. I also can't see any red on any of the panels but maybe the entire bike was stripped or the panels were replaced as well as the tank. I got the OEM chin fairing in light gray also. The one on the bike was purchased and painted by owner #2. It is not the same kind of paint as the rest of the bike. Btw, besides the frame sticker and it's yellow code the rear plastic fender has a sticker stating that it meets 2000 regulations. Was this normal for a 1998?
Mr. Moore7 - I've run the tank nearly dry because I want to remove it so I can check the air filter. Owner #1 stated that he had a K&N in it. Since it's running so well I'll clean and keep it... if it looks quality. If not, I'll replace with OEM. Also, I'm planning to replace the R&R and CCT very soon. I'm real happy with the suspension. The one thing I would like to change is to move the bars up and back a bit more than the VFR bars do now. But does any bar do that and not hit the fairing? As it is now the VFR clip ons switch the high beam on whenever I turn all the way right. When turning turning left the fairing just slips between the grip and the start/stop switch gear in the 1/3 inch gap between them! So... is there another clip on or bar that fits that does not require cutting the fairing and provides a little more upright position than the VRF clip ons?
Mr. Xeris & Mr. Allchaos (are you related to Captain?) - I got the bike with 2 OEM sets of cans and the MIG system. I got it with the OEM with 2 holes drilled on the rear plate (the other OEM system looks new) but I installed the MIG system and really like the sound. In addition, it weighs a fraction of what the OEM system weighs. Photos attached if I figure it out.
tsp
The Blog: Motorcycle Touring
Mr. Chaos & Mr. Hawk - The paint does look like the Pearl Shining Yellow. I also can't see any red on any of the panels but maybe the entire bike was stripped or the panels were replaced as well as the tank. I got the OEM chin fairing in light gray also. The one on the bike was purchased and painted by owner #2. It is not the same kind of paint as the rest of the bike. Btw, besides the frame sticker and it's yellow code the rear plastic fender has a sticker stating that it meets 2000 regulations. Was this normal for a 1998?
Mr. Moore7 - I've run the tank nearly dry because I want to remove it so I can check the air filter. Owner #1 stated that he had a K&N in it. Since it's running so well I'll clean and keep it... if it looks quality. If not, I'll replace with OEM. Also, I'm planning to replace the R&R and CCT very soon. I'm real happy with the suspension. The one thing I would like to change is to move the bars up and back a bit more than the VFR bars do now. But does any bar do that and not hit the fairing? As it is now the VFR clip ons switch the high beam on whenever I turn all the way right. When turning turning left the fairing just slips between the grip and the start/stop switch gear in the 1/3 inch gap between them! So... is there another clip on or bar that fits that does not require cutting the fairing and provides a little more upright position than the VRF clip ons?
Mr. Xeris & Mr. Allchaos (are you related to Captain?) - I got the bike with 2 OEM sets of cans and the MIG system. I got it with the OEM with 2 holes drilled on the rear plate (the other OEM system looks new) but I installed the MIG system and really like the sound. In addition, it weighs a fraction of what the OEM system weighs. Photos attached if I figure it out.
tsp
The Blog: Motorcycle Touring
I had a '79 RS that was tuned and set up cafe style but also capable of long road trips in comfort. A fun bike but the VTR is quite a different beast altogether! More pics!!
#13
#14
I can only post 1 picture per post. Maybe they are too large. I'll try resizing - if not then I will post several times because I took the photos that I was asked to take.
I'll delete this post if I get a solution.
Thanks again,
tsp
Edit: I never was able to post multiple pictures so I'm going to burn some bandwidth and post one large photo per post. Al least you'll be able to see some detail.
I'll delete this post if I get a solution.
Thanks again,
tsp
Edit: I never was able to post multiple pictures so I'm going to burn some bandwidth and post one large photo per post. Al least you'll be able to see some detail.
Last edited by Tsperez; 01-18-2013 at 12:12 AM.
#21
Yeah I'd be curious to see the VIN on your motor, and if it matches your frame. The registration VIN follows the frame, so all you have to do is swap one part (frame) and the DMV considers it a different bike.
In other words, you may just have a 1998 frame and a 2000 bike...
This kind of happened with my bike, frame was replaced, motor and most other parts kept from one bike, I replaced the frame and as far as registration and insurance is concerned, I have a different bike, haha!
In other words, you may just have a 1998 frame and a 2000 bike...
This kind of happened with my bike, frame was replaced, motor and most other parts kept from one bike, I replaced the frame and as far as registration and insurance is concerned, I have a different bike, haha!
#22
I got the engine number from the back of the engine but how do I decode it? Whereas the VIN is 17 digits, the engine number is 12 digits.
tsp
tsp
Yeah I'd be curious to see the VIN on your motor, and if it matches your frame. The registration VIN follows the frame, so all you have to do is swap one part (frame) and the DMV considers it a different bike.
In other words, you may just have a 1998 frame and a 2000 bike...
This kind of happened with my bike, frame was replaced, motor and most other parts kept from one bike, I replaced the frame and as far as registration and insurance is concerned, I have a different bike, haha!
In other words, you may just have a 1998 frame and a 2000 bike...
This kind of happened with my bike, frame was replaced, motor and most other parts kept from one bike, I replaced the frame and as far as registration and insurance is concerned, I have a different bike, haha!
#24
Example VIN No. JH2SC36A4VM8******
JH2: country of production (JH2=WMI Honda Japan, 1HF=Honda America, ZDC=Honda Italy, VTM=Montesa/Honda Spain)
SC36: type (VTR1000F)
B: early version, B late version
1: control number (1-9 or X)
T: year (T=1996, V=1997, W=1998, X=1999, Y=2000, 1=2001 ... 6=2006)
M: factory (M=Hamamatsu/Japan, K=Kumamoto/Japan, A=Ohio/USA, F=Atessa/Italy, E=Barcelona/Spain
000992: serial number
So mine JH2SC36A4VM8****** was '97 early VTR1000F built in Hamamatsu/Japan.
JH2: country of production (JH2=WMI Honda Japan, 1HF=Honda America, ZDC=Honda Italy, VTM=Montesa/Honda Spain)
SC36: type (VTR1000F)
B: early version, B late version
1: control number (1-9 or X)
T: year (T=1996, V=1997, W=1998, X=1999, Y=2000, 1=2001 ... 6=2006)
M: factory (M=Hamamatsu/Japan, K=Kumamoto/Japan, A=Ohio/USA, F=Atessa/Italy, E=Barcelona/Spain
000992: serial number
So mine JH2SC36A4VM8****** was '97 early VTR1000F built in Hamamatsu/Japan.
#26
I checked the engine number with Honda USA. The engine is from a 2000 VTR. It appears everything is 2000 except the frame (and user's manual) which is 1998. The VIN matches the title and decodes to a 1998.
The mystery thickens...
tsp
My blog: Motorcycle Touring
The mystery thickens...
tsp
My blog: Motorcycle Touring
#29
My point on the Title would be that if the numbers don't match now you will need to get it re-titled in whatever state you live in. This can be an easy or difficult process depending on your state. In some states it can result in in a salvage title or reconstructed, etc.
It is also something that should already have been done and disclosed to you at point of sale.
It is also something that should already have been done and disclosed to you at point of sale.
#30
Example VIN No. JH2SC36A4VM8******
JH2: country of production (JH2=WMI Honda Japan, 1HF=Honda America, ZDC=Honda Italy, VTM=Montesa/Honda Spain)
SC36: type (VTR1000F)
B: early version, B late version
1: control number (1-9 or X)
T: year (T=1996, V=1997, W=1998, X=1999, Y=2000, 1=2001 ... 6=2006)
M: factory (M=Hamamatsu/Japan, K=Kumamoto/Japan, A=Ohio/USA, F=Atessa/Italy, E=Barcelona/Spain
000992: serial number
So mine JH2SC36A4VM8****** was '97 early VTR1000F built in Hamamatsu/Japan.
JH2: country of production (JH2=WMI Honda Japan, 1HF=Honda America, ZDC=Honda Italy, VTM=Montesa/Honda Spain)
SC36: type (VTR1000F)
B: early version, B late version
1: control number (1-9 or X)
T: year (T=1996, V=1997, W=1998, X=1999, Y=2000, 1=2001 ... 6=2006)
M: factory (M=Hamamatsu/Japan, K=Kumamoto/Japan, A=Ohio/USA, F=Atessa/Italy, E=Barcelona/Spain
000992: serial number
So mine JH2SC36A4VM8****** was '97 early VTR1000F built in Hamamatsu/Japan.
thanks wicky mine was made same place as yours.
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