I'm not sure how your autoranging multimeter works, but it's probably showing kilo-ohms.




I also measured increasing resistance as throttle position increased. I was only able to get mine down to 800 ohms or so.

The only difference I noticed with it vs. no TPS at all, was it cleaned up the idle and lowered it a bit.

 

Its been so long ago since I "calibrated" the TPS I can't remember the diff. I'm setting the 2nd set of carbs back to OE except for +.040" needle ht, and no PAIR of course. I'm retesting the OE 41T rr, all for gas mileage. I think the 43T (+2) I used for 35k lets the engine-trans work more efficiently thus ending up eq gas usage though adding a bit of vibes n'more wear. Yet I think the vibes n'wear are worth it sports wise. I'll do plug shops to check burn but with reformulated gas its hard to read plugs without also a CO meter. Which entails welding sensor ports and buying a rideable unit. You know who makes one reasonable?

 

I wonder if Dave is still watching this forum. Well, when I am cruising at any rpm in any gear, I feel much more power when I just roll on the throttle rather than smacking it wide open. When i wack it all the way open I can feel the power decrease a bit, and then as i come back down on the throttle to around and 1/8 turn more than steady speed, I feel it has the hardest pull. Shouldn't it pull the hardest at full throttle no matter what?

I have a 2004 SuperHawk... factory pro jet kit( I cant remember what my mains, needle and pilot are set at), a K&N air filter, Micron cans, and the TPS is at about 520 ohms across green-Red leads. I just put in the 4 degree advancer too.

I have noticed this no matter what my jetting was at and with and without the 4 degree advance.
I always ran 93 octane before I got the 4deg adv. and figured maybe the timing was always a bit retarded because of that.

Now I have the +4 deg and 87 oct gas(I know possible pre ign) but still feel I have to baby the throttle. Do I need a drag bike? I dont feel that my chicken is the wheely
monster I hear about either. Maybe I should dyno it since I never have before.

Dont get me wrong, It runs really well and I have no flat spots and it idles great.

This leads me to want to see if I can hook something up to the computer and have it tel me what my ignition advance is and see if the timing is actually retarding when I open the throttle all of the way before getting up to lets say 8000 rpm?

Maybe it isnt as advanced as it should be at the top end because we all set ours back 300 - 400 ohms off of the factory setting?

TPS

G to R wire = 520 ohms closed / 4700 open
G to Y wire = 5.34 no matter what since it is across the whole POT
R to Y wire = 5620 ohms closed / 1509 open(obviously gets smaller when G-R wire gets bigger

Dave, I wonder which set of wires the ICU uses to determine advance if it used the R-Y wires, it may fit better with what you originally thought. I realize that the temp sensor is tied in in parallel to the green wire from the TPS and will affect the voltage that is across the TPS/Temp sensor combo going into the ICU. I bet the ICU ises a combo of both sides of the TPS to figure off of.

I know Im a freak, I have my bike apart more than I ride it.

Can anyone tell me if the feeling less power with wide open throttle is normal and just following the RPM's by about an 1/8 turn of the throttle is what I need to get used to?

 

just looking in my haynes manual the specs it says are confusing.resistance 4 to 6 k ohms ,but later on in chapter if u replace the sensor set it to ohms x 100 scale and a reading 490-510 ohms. maybe just me but i dont see the oem specs of 800? so what do i adjust it to? thanks john

 

Octo,

I have very linear power no matter the throttle position. I think you might have a jetting problem. Sounds to me like you're running rich on the needle. Try lowering the needles one notch and see what happens.

Johnboy,

Adjust it 400-430Ω optimally. If you can only get away with 500Ω without taking the TPS apart then do that. I've seen and heard of too many people breaking the TPS by trying to bend the little tab inside. 800Ω is what it's set from at the factory. I believe that might be set to 500 with the idle adjuster fully backed out. After the idle is set then you get the 800-ish reading. That's my theory anyway.

 

ahhh ok its making sense now,thanks hawkrider,ill try this on the weekend and post my results. also she idles at 1200rpm and i have no probs with stalling out,should i leave it or just adjust after doing the tps??? john and this is a great site and has been veryyyyy usefull to me thanks again