More TPS adjustment mod questions
03-24-2005, 08:21 PM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NW Chicago Suburbs, IL
Posts: 26
More TPS adjustment mod questions
Hi all, this is my first post here. I've been a lurker for a few months, though I'm active over at Sport-touring.net, twowheeltouring.net, and VFRdiscussion.com.
I read all about the TPS adjustment mod, and it seems that everybody's has been way off as set by the factory. Everyone has readjusted it has had nothing but great things to say about the performance afterwards. I went down to the garage and took off the necessary stuff to perform the mod. I got to the part where I was supposed to cut a slot for removal of the tamper-proof screws which hold the TPS on. I just could not get a straight deep (enough) slot cut in the inner circle to be able to use a screwdriver to remove the tamper-proof screws.
Can anyone who has done the mod give me a few pointers to successfully remove the TPS? Also, I'm a bit fuzzy at exactly what I'm supposed to measure with an ohm meter, and what exactly I need to adjust the reading down to 500+/- 10 ohms. Can anyone enlighten me on that, too?
Thanks for the help, I guess I'm kinda "slow in the head",
Troy
I read all about the TPS adjustment mod, and it seems that everybody's has been way off as set by the factory. Everyone has readjusted it has had nothing but great things to say about the performance afterwards. I went down to the garage and took off the necessary stuff to perform the mod. I got to the part where I was supposed to cut a slot for removal of the tamper-proof screws which hold the TPS on. I just could not get a straight deep (enough) slot cut in the inner circle to be able to use a screwdriver to remove the tamper-proof screws.
Can anyone who has done the mod give me a few pointers to successfully remove the TPS? Also, I'm a bit fuzzy at exactly what I'm supposed to measure with an ohm meter, and what exactly I need to adjust the reading down to 500+/- 10 ohms. Can anyone enlighten me on that, too?
Thanks for the help, I guess I'm kinda "slow in the head",
Troy
03-24-2005, 11:50 PM
#2
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: East Cleveland
Posts: 296
Re: More TPS adjustment mod questions
ok, seein how i did it yesterday, its quite simple. take a roud 1" or smaller cutting blade from a dremel tool, and whack the crap out of the middle 2 rings of the 4 concentric rings... the outer 2 are washers.... forget them. i whacked them accidently, but it didnt matter... once you see a hold behind the rings, thats where theres a 1.5" or so long bolt... its finger tight, so get that ring stuff outta the way and your ok. remove the bolts underneath the rings and the tps pulls off... once you get it off, its wound on a spring.. youll get it... touch the top and middle pins with an ohm meter and youll see. as the spring gets more tought(clockwise rotation) , the ohms go more from the recommended(500ohms) . simply take out the gold inserts that are oval lining where the concentric ring things were that you were grinding... once you take them off, you should be at 500 ohms. thats it. mount it and your done. any Q's , post back. look at my posts that are a day old if you need more help, these guys helped me too! do the shim mod while your at it.
03-25-2005, 04:47 AM
#3
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Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NW Chicago Suburbs, IL
Posts: 26
Re: More TPS adjustment mod questions
Thanks Cleveland. I guess my mistake in cutting a slot was that I was using a very small diamond point cutter - I guess I need more of a round, flat cutter type insrument.
Also your explanation on what to adjust helps me understand quite a bit - I guess things will become crystal after I remove the TPS.
I'll reattack this after work tonight!
- Troy
PS - I did the shim mod (of the rear shock, I assume you're talking about) about a year ago. Good stuff.
Also your explanation on what to adjust helps me understand quite a bit - I guess things will become crystal after I remove the TPS.
I'll reattack this after work tonight!
- Troy
PS - I did the shim mod (of the rear shock, I assume you're talking about) about a year ago. Good stuff.
03-25-2005, 10:05 AM
#5
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: East Cleveland
Posts: 296
Re: More TPS adjustment mod questions
guys, go to general discussion, and look at my 2 tps posts. according to the knowledgebase as well, this will help you pull hard, meaty torque from as low as 2k rpm 
. it improves low end i guess and any gurgle or burping in a steady cruise low rpm state. REMEMBER to set your idle speed first!!! as this is effected by the tps
. it improves low end i guess and any gurgle or burping in a steady cruise low rpm state. REMEMBER to set your idle speed first!!! as this is effected by the tps
03-25-2005, 05:58 PM
#6
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Squid
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NW Chicago Suburbs, IL
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Re: More TPS adjustment mod questions
I finally got the tamper-proof screws hacked off with a dremel. I took out my multi-meter and measured the ohms between the top and middle pins. It read 517 ohms. Was mine the only one that was (essentially) set correctly by the factory??? Did anyone else find theirs to be correct straight from the factory?
For reference my SH is a '98 model.
Thanks for the help, but it seems my TPS was runnin' right to begin with.
Troy
For reference my SH is a '98 model.
Thanks for the help, but it seems my TPS was runnin' right to begin with.
Troy
03-25-2005, 06:08 PM
#7
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: East Cleveland
Posts: 296
Re: More TPS adjustment mod questions
many are set from the factory correctly, as they should, just like ignition timing and everything else. however, one small jar or pothole can possibly smack em 50 ohms or so.. regardless, replace screws with 5mm X 8mm long allen keys for easy adjustment. you can almost undo it a 1/4 turn without the tank off for future reference and piece of mind.
03-25-2005, 07:12 PM
#8
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Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NW Chicago Suburbs, IL
Posts: 26
Re: More TPS adjustment mod questions
At least it's good to know that the TPS was performing correctly.....it's a peace of mind. And yes, replacing with 5mm hex screws will make it a ton easier to adjust/check in the future.
Thanks for the help. At least this gave me something to do instead of watching TV or going out to the bar on a Friday night!
- Troy
Thanks for the help. At least this gave me something to do instead of watching TV or going out to the bar on a Friday night!
- Troy
03-25-2005, 08:48 PM
#9
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: East Cleveland
Posts: 296
Re: More TPS adjustment mod questions
a damn good point Troy ! my lady friend is stopping over, chillin out , and i just did the air filter mod from Superbling's page tonight :
http://community.webshots.com/album/221820514vtPKpk
its lookin nice, used the whole tube of rtv silicone, letting it dry overnight. i actually modded it a lil more than the website. if you look at the last picture, he mounted his filter fins verticle or parallel to the bike. i found this way-as he even states- is a VERY tight squeeze in the back. all i did was took my angry dremel tool, cut through the FRAM filter's mesh wiring ALONG the filter fins, or parallel to them, about 2" in from the end. then mounted it so the part i just cut is going perpendicular to the bike, or across it, and the cut side is closest to your belly if you were on the bike . then boom, fits perfectly, folded the ends of the metal fence shards up so theyll hold in the remaining fins that were cut, and kazaam! $4.50 filter , $3.99 silicone , knowing im FRUGAL and not CHEAP .... priceless. :P
http://community.webshots.com/album/221820514vtPKpk
its lookin nice, used the whole tube of rtv silicone, letting it dry overnight. i actually modded it a lil more than the website. if you look at the last picture, he mounted his filter fins verticle or parallel to the bike. i found this way-as he even states- is a VERY tight squeeze in the back. all i did was took my angry dremel tool, cut through the FRAM filter's mesh wiring ALONG the filter fins, or parallel to them, about 2" in from the end. then mounted it so the part i just cut is going perpendicular to the bike, or across it, and the cut side is closest to your belly if you were on the bike . then boom, fits perfectly, folded the ends of the metal fence shards up so theyll hold in the remaining fins that were cut, and kazaam!
$4.50 filter , $3.99 silicone , knowing im FRUGAL and not CHEAP .... priceless. :P
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