I've noticed a ticking lately that I can't pin point and don't know if it was there before (had the bike 2 weeks before cct failure so I didn't ride for a while). It seems to be coming from the left side, towards the front cylinder. It is consistent was rpms (as in it ticks faster with more acceleration). It is there riding and in nuetral. I did notice that if I have it in N and release the clutch lever there is more vibration but the sound doesn't change. I know these have noisy clutches so that part doesn't bother me, just not sure if its related.

I have fitted new manual ccts, but that is really the only change. I adjusted then to 1/4" play with the covers off. Could they be too tight/loose and cause a rattle/tick?

Other than the clutch and ccts, my other suspect is loose valves. I checked the front when I had the cover off and they were close to spec, the clearances were a little big but within a few mm's, would such a small amount make them noisy?

 

Have you checked for an exhaust leak?

 

You know, I did drop the exhaust when I pulled the oil pan and didn't think to check it, although it sounds more like a mechanical tick than an exhaust leak. I will still check it though, thanks

 

Just checked it out, its definitely an exhaust leak, what I was hearing was that added with the noisy clutch making me think it was mechanical.

It is either where my left pipe slips onto the stock pipe, or where the stock pipe slips onto the stock downpipe on the rear cylinder. I readjusted and tightened both and it is still there, but at least its not something to be worried about.

Any tips for correcting it? The pipes are seated correctly and tightened down enough but not enough to bend the pipe, creating a gap. I play to wrap my exhaust soon, should I just ignore it until I do?

 

Replace the seal in the link pipe connector

(edit!) Part no. 6 (18392-MG7-750)

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID.../Group/MUFFLER

 

+1 Wicky
I had to change the same seal this year. Even though the clamp was tight the seal had eroded to half its width.
It's not a hard job but it is a bit fiddly. I found it easier to remove the mufflers and midpipes, loosen the headers at the cylinder head and remove the bolts holding the exhausts to the frame in order to have enough play to slide the header from the rear cylinder into the system. It's a tight fit. You'll have to replace the gaskets at the cylinder heads. There's also a risk of breaking a stud in the cylinder head. Others may have been able to change the seal without all the mucking about.

 

That diagram shows 2 different parts labeled as 8. It has the two collars between the exhaust pipes labeled as 8, but also the rubber for the exhaust mount labeled as 8, and the list shows the only 8 as being rubber, which wouldn't do well in an exhaust. I know what part to get though, thanks.

 

Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts

Pos #6 are the carbons
Pos #2 are the copper seals for the heads

I would replace all 2 of the carbons and both of the coppers if it were my project