Starting with cold engine - Enrichener questions
#61
James,
I have read this post several times and am mystified as to why your bike is acting this way.
I increased the idle speed on mine to 1500 revs when I was having similar problems.
These bikes idle slow when cold I have found.
The things that I did were,
Fitted new plastic nuts on the chokes, made sure the plungers were operating freely.
Replaced the carb inlet rubbers and clamps because I had had the carbs off the engine about 10 times setting them up.
Synced the carbs including the mixtures and replaced the air filter and made sure that the remote vac lines were sealed correctly.
Now when I start it from cold with the choke full on it runs up to 2000 revs and as it starts to die I push the choke in. The idle is slow at about 1000'revs and as the engine warms it slowly rises to the 1500'that I have it set at.
I ride off as soon as I have pushed the choke in and when I pull up it is idleing at the 1500'I have it set at.
Before I set the idle at 1500 it would conk out after pushing the choke in unless I used the throttle.
I have never been one to let engines idle for excessive amounts of time to warm an engine as I believe that they warm up quicker when being used.
I don't thrash the bike until it is at normal operating temp.
Why don't you see what happens if you increase the idle speed to 1500 when the bike is warm? Could be worth a try.
Just a thought, it worked for me.
P.S I have 48s
I have read this post several times and am mystified as to why your bike is acting this way.
I increased the idle speed on mine to 1500 revs when I was having similar problems.
These bikes idle slow when cold I have found.
The things that I did were,
Fitted new plastic nuts on the chokes, made sure the plungers were operating freely.
Replaced the carb inlet rubbers and clamps because I had had the carbs off the engine about 10 times setting them up.
Synced the carbs including the mixtures and replaced the air filter and made sure that the remote vac lines were sealed correctly.
Now when I start it from cold with the choke full on it runs up to 2000 revs and as it starts to die I push the choke in. The idle is slow at about 1000'revs and as the engine warms it slowly rises to the 1500'that I have it set at.
I ride off as soon as I have pushed the choke in and when I pull up it is idleing at the 1500'I have it set at.
Before I set the idle at 1500 it would conk out after pushing the choke in unless I used the throttle.
I have never been one to let engines idle for excessive amounts of time to warm an engine as I believe that they warm up quicker when being used.
I don't thrash the bike until it is at normal operating temp.
Why don't you see what happens if you increase the idle speed to 1500 when the bike is warm? Could be worth a try.
Just a thought, it worked for me.
P.S I have 48s
#62
Here is the latest update! Good news! Watch the video and check it out...
http://youtu.be/jzEmjGvI3B8
James
http://youtu.be/jzEmjGvI3B8
James
#65
Wait....so, both you guys, your engines start to die when the engine warms up with the choke on? With mine, initial start up with choke out, the RPM's start at about 2000 and as the engine warms, within a minute or so, the RPM's will climb up to 3500 and stay there untill I push the choke back in. Mine won't start to die with the choke out. Interesting.
#66
That's what my other bikes did too, just idle higher as they warmed up...
I wonder if it would do that with stock pilots installed.
Perhaps the fuel enrichener needle profiles are different for the UK bikes with 48 pilots installed? I'll have to check on that...
James
I wonder if it would do that with stock pilots installed.
Perhaps the fuel enrichener needle profiles are different for the UK bikes with 48 pilots installed? I'll have to check on that...
James
#67
Wait....so, both you guys, your engines start to die when the engine warms up with the choke on? With mine, initial start up with choke out, the RPM's start at about 2000 and as the engine warms, within a minute or so, the RPM's will climb up to 3500 and stay there untill I push the choke back in. Mine won't start to die with the choke out. Interesting.
That is pretty much how mine works also, though I never leave it on long enough for the revs to climb even higher but still none of these other issues.
#68
I am now curious as to what is supposed to happen with the choke pulled out and the bike warms up. RPM's climb or bike dies? If the bike dies, does this point to a tuning issue?
#69
I'm so old that I used to have cars with manual chokes.
From memory they all died or idled slow and rough if you left the choke out.
Stands to reason that they run too rich with the choke out and over fuel doesn't it?
With the VTR if I hear it starting to bog if I use the throttle it will keep running but I have only ever done that a couple of times.
From memory they all died or idled slow and rough if you left the choke out.
Stands to reason that they run too rich with the choke out and over fuel doesn't it?
With the VTR if I hear it starting to bog if I use the throttle it will keep running but I have only ever done that a couple of times.
#70
The difference here is that it is not a choke but an enrichener circuit.
So by adding fuel the revs should rise.
These other issues sound like a rich condition down low but without seeing the bike it is hard to tell.
So by adding fuel the revs should rise.
These other issues sound like a rich condition down low but without seeing the bike it is hard to tell.
#71
So, you think a persons bike that, once warmed up, begins to die with the choke (enrichener) on, thier bike's pilot system might be too rich, hey? Can this be fixed by turning in the fuel screws or would it require smaller jets?
#72
I made significant improvement with this issue on my bike.
It appears I was way too rich on the idle mixture screws. After leaning these out during a carb synch session my enrichener works as expected and the bike idles reliably when transitioning from cold to fully warmed. I also notice the engine warms up much quicker than before. Next time I do a fill up I'll check fuel economy but expect it will be improved too.
It appears I was way too rich on the idle mixture screws. After leaning these out during a carb synch session my enrichener works as expected and the bike idles reliably when transitioning from cold to fully warmed. I also notice the engine warms up much quicker than before. Next time I do a fill up I'll check fuel economy but expect it will be improved too.
#74
I was under the impression we used indicators to adjust the mixture screws, indicators like the engine hanging at 2k rpm after revving the bike up (indicating a lean condition, requiring turning the mixture screws out). That's what i've been doing.
I figured once the tach returns to idle cleanly after revving it up, with no hanging or popping, then i had the mixture right... Then i would sync again.
James
I figured once the tach returns to idle cleanly after revving it up, with no hanging or popping, then i had the mixture right... Then i would sync again.
James
#75
Usually it is just the mixture screw being out too far.
#77
James, one thing I've noticed is 2001 up bikes do not have the same carburation features. The carbs are the same, but the set up is not.
My '98 and Mikstr's '99 had/have much better fuel mileage from a tank of gas. Plus, setting up the carbs seem's much easier.
Now, my '05 does idle up quite fast as previously mentioned by others, but like yourself, very soon I do have to push in my choke ****, or it will die. It will restart however, without giving it gas. It hesitates, but starts. When I had my 48's in, it wouldn't start, and very difficult at keeping idle without dieing on every street corner, even with fuel screws turned in quite alot. I thing I was down to 3/4 turn front and 1 at the rear.
I believe those years will run much better with the 45's.
Another thing is your idle. You have it set at 1200, it needs to be at 1300, +/- 100 for those model years. You will notice will keep it's idle much better. And ste it after you have run the bike for 10-15 mins....take a ride, and then set it.
My 2 cents....
My '98 and Mikstr's '99 had/have much better fuel mileage from a tank of gas. Plus, setting up the carbs seem's much easier.
Now, my '05 does idle up quite fast as previously mentioned by others, but like yourself, very soon I do have to push in my choke ****, or it will die. It will restart however, without giving it gas. It hesitates, but starts. When I had my 48's in, it wouldn't start, and very difficult at keeping idle without dieing on every street corner, even with fuel screws turned in quite alot. I thing I was down to 3/4 turn front and 1 at the rear.
I believe those years will run much better with the 45's.
Another thing is your idle. You have it set at 1200, it needs to be at 1300, +/- 100 for those model years. You will notice will keep it's idle much better. And ste it after you have run the bike for 10-15 mins....take a ride, and then set it.
My 2 cents....
#78
After two years of reading i've never come across this information before. Thank you very much!
I may try going back to the 45 pilots this winter then.
When i set the idle to 1300 i'll probably need to resync huh?
James
I may try going back to the 45 pilots this winter then.
When i set the idle to 1300 i'll probably need to resync huh?
James
#79
Ok i got off my bum tonight and work on the bike after a 70 mile rode today...
Yanked the carbs, and removed the 48 pilots. Also cleaned the loctite off Jack's adjustable mixture screws. They now turn in and out by hand
Tomorrow i'll set the idle to 1300, and sync the carbs.
I just need to research a baseline settings for the adjustable fuel screws...
James
Yanked the carbs, and removed the 48 pilots. Also cleaned the loctite off Jack's adjustable mixture screws. They now turn in and out by hand
Tomorrow i'll set the idle to 1300, and sync the carbs.
I just need to research a baseline settings for the adjustable fuel screws...
James
#80
Okay... So i wish i had done this last year...
Pilots: 45
Front fuel mixture screw: 2-3/4 turns out
Rear fuel mixture screw: 3 turns out
Carb sync done.
Bike started right up with half choke, and idled up. Bike REMAINED IDLING until temp was about 115 on the digital readout, then i pushed the enrichener **** in and it idled at about 1300rpm.
Just took it for a spin to the bank and back. Bottom end felt really crisp! No surging anywhere. Lugged it quite a bit just to test everything and couldn't find any faults.
Tomorrow i'll start it cold again first thing in the morning and give a report on whether the enrichener works as it should SUPER EXCITED!!
James
P.S. The pilots that were in the bike (stock) have the Keihin marking on them, and say 45S. Anyone know whether there is a difference between these and regular (non S) Keihin 45 pilots?
Pilots: 45
Front fuel mixture screw: 2-3/4 turns out
Rear fuel mixture screw: 3 turns out
Carb sync done.
Bike started right up with half choke, and idled up. Bike REMAINED IDLING until temp was about 115 on the digital readout, then i pushed the enrichener **** in and it idled at about 1300rpm.
Just took it for a spin to the bank and back. Bottom end felt really crisp! No surging anywhere. Lugged it quite a bit just to test everything and couldn't find any faults.
Tomorrow i'll start it cold again first thing in the morning and give a report on whether the enrichener works as it should SUPER EXCITED!!
James
P.S. The pilots that were in the bike (stock) have the Keihin marking on them, and say 45S. Anyone know whether there is a difference between these and regular (non S) Keihin 45 pilots?
#81
#83
Found the answer to the 45 "S" question:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...uestion-31274/
James
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...uestion-31274/
James
#86
Here is this morning's video. Mid 50's outside. Started right up with enrichener **** pulled out 1/8". I have no doubt it would have warmed up to 160 and been fine if i hadn't fiddled with it at about 120 degrees. Hope you can hear the audio.
Thoughts about the revs? See any hanging around 2k rpm?
James
Thoughts about the revs? See any hanging around 2k rpm?
James
#87
Just wanted to update this thread and reference another similar thread of mine:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...hrottle-33469/
Started it up this morning with choke 1/2way out at mid 50 degrees and it idled high while i put on my jacket, helmet, and gloves!
Also started it with 1/8" of choke this afternoon to go home (mid 80's), and it idled fine again.
Street/freeway manners are excellent! I can lug it down to almost idled and pull clean away. No stumbles or weirdness. I think i am very close (if not already there) to finding my perfect carb setup.
James
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...hrottle-33469/
Started it up this morning with choke 1/2way out at mid 50 degrees and it idled high while i put on my jacket, helmet, and gloves!
Also started it with 1/8" of choke this afternoon to go home (mid 80's), and it idled fine again.
Street/freeway manners are excellent! I can lug it down to almost idled and pull clean away. No stumbles or weirdness. I think i am very close (if not already there) to finding my perfect carb setup.
James
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