I got a pair of 9K oem CCTs to replace my 27K ones. Any special way to replace them? Is it as simple as i think it is?

I was going to take my air box off, throw on the new cct's and put some tube gasket sealer and let'r'rip.

Another question. If I need to put up pics I will but... I removed one of the bolts from the end of the oem tensioner and a bunch of oil came out. I know they are supposed to be filled so do I just pour some more oil back into the tensioner then close it up?

 

Take a look at the Knowledge Base on this site and get a shop manual. It'll make things a lot easier.

 

You have to make sure the engine is in the right part of the cycle for each one that you remove, otherwise the chain will jump teeth and you will find yourself unhappy with a destroyed engine.

 

Don't remove the old CCT until you have that particular cylinder at TDC.
When installing the new CCT be sure to retract it before istalling it. Yes it is common sense, but I had an MMi graduate just ram one in and bolt it down... no bueno.

 

Retract the oem tensioner? I dont think they retract... I can let the oil to retract it a little... but then how do i get it to go back out without priming the **** out of it.

Hmmmm.

 

The VTR CCT's do retract. Remove the 8mm bolt at the end and use a flathead screw driver, turning clockwise, to retract it.

 

you have to read the shop manual on this or find the thread on how to. I think this is the most serious F-up an owner/DIY can do to their engine - it is not a simple pop out the old one, screw in the new one. and the questions you are asking indicate you aren't comprehending that.

 

nope

 

Ok, I comprehend all that. But there still are only threads about Manual ones, and OEMs are a different game. I read the knowledge database and understand I need to do the TDC thing and all that good stuff.

So, what about the oem tensioner and the ?primer bolt? and how do u relieve the tension?

 

Find the link to the manual and it tells how. You can make the key like thing if you want, but a very small flat blade screw drive will fit into the little slot just as well - once you remove the small screw and washer. THen turn it - I can' remember which direction to completely retract the tensioner - if you don't make the key according to the manual, you just have to hold the screwdriver or it will just spin and let the tensioner expand again. Keep it retracted till you have it back in place then let it go. but read the manual eh? don't risk it with this procedure.

 

thanks cliby. I have the PDF manual. Im gonna read up, replace them on tuesday then tell u how it goes.

 

The following imo is the quickest and safest way I've found to replace the CCT's

(1) Remove seat

(2) Disconnect block connector on end of wiring from fuel tank (located under-seat in front of battery box)

(3) Unbolt fuel tank, turn fuel tap off with 8mm open end spanner and disconnect all hoses noting where each one goes first (use masking tape and write on it if you won't remember) then lift off tank (easier to do when tank is nearly empty)

(4) Remove air filter box lid and air filter, then remove the two air intake trumpets, (noting where each one goes as they are different lengths) cover the intake holes of each carb with a clean rag so nothing can fall in there, next remove the screws holding the air box to the carbs and disconnect the breather hoses then remove the air box itself

(5) Remove the spark plugs and cover holes with clean rags

(6) Remove the two caps from the alternator housing (left-hand side of bike when sitting on it) be very careful removing the center one as it's made of very soft material

(7) Using a socket and tee bar in the center hole of the alternator cover turn the engine over (anti-clockwise) until the timing mark 'RT' lines up with the mark on the alternator cover which can be seen in the 2nd hole of the alternator cover

(8 ) Remove the rear cam cover (it's much easier than the front one) also note models with the pair system will have a metal locating dowel between cylinder head and cam cover, not applicable on UK models

(9) Now looking at the camshafts, the lobes should be facing to-wards each other, if not turn the engine over one full turn (360 degrees) until the 'RT' mark is re-aligned, they should now be facing to-wards each other and the marks RI and RE on the camshaft sprockets should be level with the top part of the cylinder head and will be facing away from each other, you are now ready to remove the rear CCT

(10) Unscrew the small bolt in the end of the rear CCT (beware a small amount of oil will run out) and turn the screw head inside clockwise to fully retract the plunger of the tensioner with a small screwdriver, (Haynes manual show you how to make a simple tool to make life easier) holding the small screwdriver in place undo and remove the tensioner, you can then release the tension slowly (especially if you intend to re-use them) and remove the screwdriver

(11) Clean off mating surfaces, fit new gasket and new CCT, (they come already retracted) once fully tightened up you can release the CCT plunger making sure it unwinds slowly until full tension is released, then remove tensioning tool and re-fit sealing washer and bolt, then re-fit cam cover. REMEMBER TO TAKE THE METAL CAPS OFF THE OLD CCT PLUNGER HEADS AND FIT ONTO THE NEW ONES, AS THE NEW ONES ARE NOT SUPPLIED WITH THEM!!!!!!.

(12) Now turn the engine over anti-clockwise 450 degrees (one and a quarter turns) until the 'FT' mark lines up with the mark on the alternator cover, you are now ready to remove the front CCT using the same procedure as the rear, without the need to remove the front cam cover

(13) Re-fit everything else in the reverse order of removal, I use a little thread lock on the screws that hold the base of the air box to the carbs.

Once you have finished re-fitted the CCT's, before putting it all back together turn over the engine 3 or 4 complete turns using the socket and tee bar (anti-clockwise) just to make sure everything is turning freely before you start the engine!


I hope that info is helpful to you!

(copy and pasted from a currently dead UK forum, i followed these instructions, and had literally no mechanical experience, and it all went fine, but like all DIY repairs, you do so at your own risk!)

 

Dont know why... but that is alot easier to follow than either the knowledge database or the manual. Im gonna do it as soon as my f**kin shot gets the gaskets in.

One more question. Can i use tube sealant? or gotta use the paper ones?

Can i use the old paper ones plus a little tube sealant?

 

Yes, I recommend HondaBond HT.