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My Journey Into the Heart of The VTR

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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
So two thoughts.
  1. The VTR is a loud/klanky motor IMHO
  2. Your Motor in the Vid "sounds" louder / klanker then what i would expect..

The problem is, way too many variables....so gauging sound by a Video tape. .. sound reflection ... angle and distance of mic, ect ect..

Do your due diligence.. pull cam covers and confirm cam chain tension, check valve clearances, check cam timing, drop the oil check it and filter for ANY sign of metal...If all that returns no faults found.. ride that sucker.
I have one tiny drip of coolant under the engine. It is coming from the nest of plumbing between the cylinders. I have decided to pull the tank again, pull the front and rear valve covers and check my chain tension and my valve clearances. I was listening to it again tonight and the top end does sound a tad on the rattly side. It is as good a time as any to set the valves. Before the tear down the front cylinder valves were just a tad tight. While I am in there I will look for the water leak. I got nothing else to do until it dries out and I can actually get a bike to the road. After that, I will button is up, ride it like I stole it and never worry about it again.

I was over at my dad and mom’s tonight. He wanted to know it is ran since he has been following the project. I pulled the video up for him and he was so surprised. “That’s you!” he kept saying. I guess it was like I was on TV and being on TV is a big deal. He said it sounded loud. He has no idea. The video does not do it justice.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 12:37 AM
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Sounds good to me and quieter than mine.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 01:57 AM
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Good to see it's running.

The engines in these bikes are mechanically noisy.

if you have owned Ducati they are quiet, if you are an IL4 guy then they will sound noisy.

It's hard to tell from your vid however it sounds about right.

The hotter mine gets the quieter it is.

Other bikes I have owned are the other way around but not the VTR.

Good luck, swing a leg and get that thing on the road.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Evil_Twin
Nice job Jim. I might have to ride out to your shop and bribe you to help me do my valve adjustment and tensioners. By the way, do you know where i can get some new exhaust gaskets? i need to replace mine when i wrap my pipes.
I can do that but I had better lay in a stock of shims if we don't want to wait for parts. As for the exhaust gaskets, I ordered a lot of parts from CheapCycleParts.com.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 09:37 AM
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I decided not to rip into it again. I put a 1/4 turn on the manual CCTs to take out some of the noisy chain rattle. I hunted and came up with the head waters of the coolant dribble. That turned out to be the bottom return hose on the coolant tank. I am hoping that by twisting it a bit I reseated it properly. I also put a bit more slack in the drive chain. I set it to Honda’s spec but it just felt too tight. It is a new chain and I will take up any slack once it is worn in a bit. I installed the chin fairing too. I even aired the tires up.

I started it, (It cranks right up with just a whiff of choke) snicked it into gear and rode it three feet in the shop under its own power. That’s as much room as I had but it was enough to tell me the clutch works and I can get first gear. I also got it hot enough for the fan to come on. It come on around 210 and cut off around 208. That is really similar to my VFR

I am going to ride it a bit and then run the valves.

You can give it a listen at the link below. Bear in mind that the video sounds bassey to me with very little high end. I have the open back on the GoPro but it sounds a but muffled to my ear.

http://youtu.be/T5whAvMAAFw

Last edited by Big_Jim59; Mar 22, 2015 at 10:50 AM.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 11:28 AM
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I thought in your first video the motor sounded too noisy, but now I think the engine noise sounds normal and what I thought was an engine knock sound in the first video is just your Two Brothers cans. Those things have a thump and the close quarters make it worse.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 12:49 PM
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That sounds about right to me.

Now ride, you'll love it.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kenmoore
That sounds about right to me.

Now ride, you'll love it.
Ill put the fairing on and do just that as soon as I can stop the dribble from the coolant tank. I hope the tank is not bad.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 01:42 PM
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Honestly still seems pretty loud to me. Maybe its off a tooth on the cam sprocket. Maybe the valves are too loose?

Its true that they're loud, but it still seems excessive.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 02:36 PM
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Just listened to the video, sounds normal. Warm it up and then see how it idles. Cold throttle blips always make the VTR sound like something serious is wrong. Be interested in what the tickover sounds like when warm and up close to the cylinder.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 03:22 PM
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I got the leak fixed and put the fairing back on. It kicks off without protest, it idles a hair above 1K and it takes fuel without stumbling. Next week, if it stays dry, I will get the tags. Texas has a new rule that you have to get an inspection before you get tags so I will be doing that. It will pass no problem.

There must be a trick to installing that fairing that I didn't know. I almost never got it back on.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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fairings

Originally Posted by Big_Jim59
I got the leak fixed and put the fairing back on. It kicks off without protest, it idles a hair above 1K and it takes fuel without stumbling. Next week, if it stays dry, I will get the tags. Texas has a new rule that you have to get an inspection before you get tags so I will be doing that. It will pass no problem.

There must be a trick to installing that fairing that I didn't know. I almost never got it back on.
I find that he trick for the fairings is to make sure that you get the little ridges inside the fairings on top of the radiators then i worry about the mirrors next after that just slight adjustments on the sides gets the fairings in place.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Big_Jim59
There must be a trick to installing that fairing that I didn't know. I almost never got it back on.
Get it up near where it has to be and make sure that plastic is above the radiators, otherwise it will hang up. Then, push the tabs (the 4 on the back of the headlight) home into the fairing stay. Once you do that, the fasteners will line up with a little persuasion. No real trick to it, but sometimes the plastic on the inside of the fairing will hang up on parts of the bike.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:51 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
Get it up near where it has to be and make sure that plastic is above the radiators, otherwise it will hang up. Then, push the tabs (the 4 on the back of the headlight) home into the fairing stay. Once you do that, the fasteners will line up with a little persuasion. No real trick to it, but sometimes the plastic on the inside of the fairing will hang up on parts of the bike.
I was having trouble with the wire bundles being in the way, just under the instrument panel. I think making sure the sides are over the radiators is a good trick.

I got it all back together, wheeled it to the door ready to ride and then I just sat and looked at it. I can't think of one more thing it needs except a tag and state inspection.

Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:58 PM
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You mean aside from needing a black frame, black wheels, black canisters.... Sorry, that was my dream talking

James
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 02:45 AM
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It needs to be ridden mate, then recheck the valves and timing chains for slack.

5-7 mm is what you need between the cam sprockets.

I have had manual tensioners for over 2 years and have never needed to adjust them .

I am paranoid about the chains and manual tensioners and have checked them 7 times to date.

just get on her and give it heaps, the best thing about these bikes is that you can't hear the mechanical noises when you are riding, you only hear them when you pull up.

I have even had people ask me how come my Ducati doesn't rattle like their mates.

I just laugh and say because it's a Honda.

V-twins sound different, you will get used to it.

Does yours have a noisy clutch? If so live with it as there is not a lot that you can do. Replacing bearings only lasts a short time as I found out.

Really good to see her back together Jim!

Now you are about to find out what all the fuss is about and judging by your ability it won't be long before you start playing with the beast that is the VTR, one of the best bang for your buck bikes that I have ever owned.
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by kenmoore
It needs to be ridden mate, then recheck the valves and timing chains for slack.

5-7 mm is what you need between the cam sprockets.

I have had manual tensioners for over 2 years and have never needed to adjust them .

I am paranoid about the chains and manual tensioners and have checked them 7 times to date.

just get on her and give it heaps, the best thing about these bikes is that you can't hear the mechanical noises when you are riding, you only hear them when you pull up.

I have even had people ask me how come my Ducati doesn't rattle like their mates.

I just laugh and say because it's a Honda.

V-twins sound different, you will get used to it.

Does yours have a noisy clutch? If so live with it as there is not a lot that you can do. Replacing bearings only lasts a short time as I found out.

Really good to see her back together Jim!

Now you are about to find out what all the fuss is about and judging by your ability it won't be long before you start playing with the beast that is the VTR, one of the best bang for your buck bikes that I have ever owned.
It really does make a good mate for my VFR. I can't wait to get it on the road.
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 08:25 AM
  #108  
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Great job on the rebuild Big Jim

I admire your work and self control. Me I would have the plates from the VFR mounted on her and down the road in a flash.
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 08:47 AM
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Jim, like Kenmoore said, you need 5-7mm for slack with the CCT's. You cannot do this by feel or by how the bike sounds. To tight, and you are wearing out parts prematurely. Here is a fantastic thread with pictures to help you out...click here.
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
Jim, like Kenmoore said, you need 5-7mm for slack with the CCT's. You cannot do this by feel or by how the bike sounds. To tight, and you are wearing out parts prematurely. Here is a fantastic thread with pictures to help you out...click here.
I followed those procedures but even with the pictures and videos and measurements there is still a bit of uncertainty. Even the timing marks are not exact with slight variances for their horizontal positions. I may have set the timing chain a bit on the loose side since too much slack makes noise and to tight screws things up.

I have been listening to other bikes in other videos and I hear a distinct whine that I do not hear in mine. I take that to be the timing chain and to my ear, that sound too tight but I have heard it in a number of vids.

I went out and cranked it today and I guess I am getting used to it because it sounds pretty good.
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 06:44 PM
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Congratulations Big_Jim59 on the completion of your Hawk! Don't change the color or anything else, and enjoy the ride...
Attached Thumbnails My Journey Into the Heart of The VTR-hwk-5.jpg  
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Badboy01
Congratulations Big_Jim59 on the completion of your Hawk! Don't change the color or anything else, and enjoy the ride...
'Hey! I like that. If you look close at mine it shows signs of wear. There are scratches on the fairing where it has fallen over (on both sides) and a few nicks in the tank but I just love the understated color.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 01:57 AM
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The whine is the straight cut primary.

tell us what you think when you get to ride it.

I have some exotic machinery in the man cave and none measure up to the overall experience of the VTR. It has character that is hard to beat!

this is a bike that responds to fettling, and anything that you do shows a difference that you feel when you ride it.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 07:15 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by kenmoore
The whine is the straight cut primary.

tell us what you think when you get to ride it.

I have some exotic machinery in the man cave and none measure up to the overall experience of the VTR. It has character that is hard to beat!

this is a bike that responds to fettling, and anything that you do shows a difference that you feel when you ride it.
I am hoping to get it out today to get its inspection so i can get the tags. My hope is that it is at least as fun to ride as mu Guzzi LeMans. The Guzzi was not fast (in top) but that torque out of corners was fantastic.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
Jim, like Kenmoore said, you need 5-7mm for slack with the CCT's. You cannot do this by feel or by how the bike sounds. To tight, and you are wearing out parts prematurely. Here is a fantastic thread with pictures to help you out...click here.
I call a friendly BS. The chains can be adjusted very effectively while running. I've done it It allows a much "better" adjustment by allowing you to adjust based on sound and rpm drop. Just because you've never done it don't knock it.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by thetophatflash
I call a friendly BS. The chains can be adjusted very effectively while running. I've done it It allows a much "better" adjustment by allowing you to adjust based on sound and rpm drop. Just because you've never done it don't knock it.
I hear ya, but how is that "better" than actually knowing how much slack is in the cam chain?

I actually have done it by ear. Went by rpm drop, and thought it was all set. Several hundred miles later, I had to do a valve adjustment and while I was in there, I checked the cam chain tension. The front cylinder was way to tight and the rear was pretty dang loose. I got a great ear and great feel for things, but it supprised me how far they were off.

When we are talking about a part that, to tight will cause premature wear, and to loose will cause the engine to fail, I'll point them to a tutorial that is proven to work. Sure, it takes some time and a bit of work, but you know for a fact it is done correctly.

I just dont want to be the guy that says, you can do it by ear, and someone reads that and goes a little to loose and wrecks his engine.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 09:42 AM
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I never had any luck doing it by ear.
I did it according to spec and the timing marks on the cam sprockets and haven't had to touch anything in 9 years.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
I hear ya, but how is that "better" than actually knowing how much slack is in the cam chain?

I actually have done it by ear. Went by rpm drop, and thought it was all set. Several hundred miles later, I had to do a valve adjustment and while I was in there, I checked the cam chain tension. The front cylinder was way to tight and the rear was pretty dang loose. I got a great ear and great feel for things, but it supprised me how far they were off.

When we are talking about a part that, to tight will cause premature wear, and to loose will cause the engine to fail, I'll point them to a tutorial that is proven to work. Sure, it takes some time and a bit of work, but you know for a fact it is done correctly.

I just dont want to be the guy that says, you can do it by ear, and someone reads that and goes a little to loose and wrecks his engine.
I didn't suggest that most everyone should do this, but I know that dynamic adjustments based on rpm drop will have less human variable than a static adjustment. As to your results, there is way too little data to suppose that the rather severe change in tension after a dynamic adjustment was based on an inherent weakness in dynamic adjustments in general and that there is something inherently better about a static adjustment. The only way for your tensioner to tighten, if properly set initially, would be for the adjuster screw to move in and that seems to be highly unlikely give the laws of physics. More likely to loosen. But, if you favor a procedure that works for you and gives a satisfactory result, use it. Your readjustment will be more cumbersome, whereas, I can do a check and or adjustment in about 10 minutes after the engine is warm. Much like extending the vacuum access to simplify adjustments of the carbs saves time. By the way, I've had the current adjustment for years without needing an adjustment.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 10:39 AM
  #119  
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I rode it up the road, about 5 miles to get my state inspection so I can get my tags. I threw an old tag on it just to keep from being stopped.

First Impressions of the 2005 VTR1000 Honda Superhawk
• Fast!
• Handles like it is on rails
• Pulls HARD!
• Engine still sounds tappy
• Idle increased about 500rpm after ride
• It gets all the gears
• Engine sounds like a sewing machine (not what I expected.)
• Fast!
• I saw and indicated 90mph and wasn’t pushing it.
• Lots of torque right off idle
• It likes my dirt road better than my VFR
• The riding position kind of hurts my neck but I think I am not used to it.

Last edited by Big_Jim59; Mar 24, 2015 at 11:01 AM.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 10:58 AM
  #120  
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Great to hear you are starting to enjoy the fruits of your labor!!



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