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Manual CCT adjustment Question

Old 09-30-2007, 04:56 AM
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Unhappy Manual CCT adjustment Question

Seems that I have a cam chain making noise and need to adjust the Manual CCT's. My question is do you have to TDC each cylinder to adjust them since they are already in or do you just adjust and go?

I searched and everything I found only referred to when installing them. Seems to me if you are adjusting it wouldn't matter as long as you didn't back them out past where the are but I'm no mechanic so what do I know.


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Old 09-30-2007, 06:42 AM
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Get each cyl at TDC, compression stroke, before adjusting, otherwise chain will be loaded and may jump a tooth, and for sure wont give accurate adjustment.

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Old 09-30-2007, 07:30 AM
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as long as you don't loosen the CCT more than its current setting, you shouldn't be risking anything such as jumping a tooth. There isn't any measurement for the amount of stock cam chain slack (unless you measured it with the automatic tensioners in before you replaced them). If you had that info, you could remove the valve cover, set to TDC, remove the CC guide and measure slack between the two sprockets and adjust till you got the specified slack. That is the APE preferred method, but on the SH requires removal of both valve covers and a lot of removing things to measure it conveniently. Most people don't do that. Most loosen the lock nut and O-ring (to relieve friction and improve your 'feel') but DON'T loosen the adjuster at this point or you canrisk the valve train. Start the engine, finger tighten the adjuster just till the clatter goes away. turn off motor and tighten up. ANother method involves manually rotating the crank to get a sense of free play and adjust till the free play is a couple degrees, but that would require some experience or a degree wheel (or both). Some others with these CCT's installed can weigh in on their experience. There is a sticky in the knowledge base in the forums, more on install than adjustment though.
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Old 09-30-2007, 09:58 AM
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To get a good adjustment you'll need to do each with the cyl at TDC. You only need to remove the rear cyl cover ... just set the crank mark to 'RT' with both cam lobes up for the rear cyl. That will be TDC. Loosen the lock nut, adjust, retighten.

I set mine to finger tight minus 1 full turn (see details from an earlier post here why)

Now for the front cyl you don't need to visually confirm the cam lobes to be 100% sure you're at TDC. Just rotate the crank CCW 450 (1 turns) and stop when the 'FT' mark aligns in the timing window. Loosen the lock nut, adjust, retighten ..... ride...
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:36 PM
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I like doing it using Cliby's method. Loosen locknut, start engine, adjust in until clatter goes away, then add maybe another 1/2 turn. It's easy and effective.
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Old 09-30-2007, 08:15 PM
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Excuse my ignorance of sintax - loosen the locknut - you mean from the way they come from APE in the cryovac? Adjust from there?
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Old 10-01-2007, 06:50 AM
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Don't know about you guys but I was paranoid about installing them too tight so I unscrewed them from the base quite a bit and then tightened in after install. I took off the cover plate at the cams and went for visual...1/4" or whatever it was. All sounds fine in there...'ts been a few hundred miles now. When I go to adjust again, I will use the rattle gone ear method.
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Old 10-03-2007, 03:23 AM
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Thanks guys.

Finally got some time to adjust it yesterday. Took me longer to find the size wrenches it needed then it did to do it. The rear was the once making noise so I just loosened the locking nut started it up turned it in until it stoped making noise and then went 1/2 turn more. Worked perfect.


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