Ignition Switch Bolts Question
04-24-2008, 08:34 AM
#1
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Location: Lithia, FL
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Ignition Switch Bolts Question
I searched but couldn't find an answer
For those who have changed out top triples or ignition switches please help
I've run into two 8mm bolts that hold the switch to the top triple that are one way, so I can't get them out
Will they have to be drilled or is there another way?
Thanks,
Rick C.
For those who have changed out top triples or ignition switches please help
I've run into two 8mm bolts that hold the switch to the top triple that are one way, so I can't get them out
Will they have to be drilled or is there another way?
Thanks,
Rick C.
04-24-2008, 06:04 PM
#5
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Greg, it's like they are designed like bathroom stall bolts! You know the ones that you can screw in, but can't remove
I figure it must be some type of theft deterrent...not sure, but seems like you can't get them out unless you drill them...
I'm surprised nobody's run it to it before...RC
04-24-2008, 07:40 PM
#7
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Location: Skurup, Sweden
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Mine was like that...
They come with a breakaway bolt head... basicly the head is shaped like a hourglass with a bolthead on the upper part and once tightened the "waist" breaks leaving a smooth cone shaped head with a coarse flat tip of the break... No way of unscrewing them unless you drill them to get a holding point...
They come with a breakaway bolt head... basicly the head is shaped like a hourglass with a bolthead on the upper part and once tightened the "waist" breaks leaving a smooth cone shaped head with a coarse flat tip of the break... No way of unscrewing them unless you drill them to get a holding point...
04-24-2008, 08:00 PM
#8
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Put a good (not rounded off slightly) allen wrench or socket on them and give them several good hits with a hammer as Honda used mega-thread lock on them and that should be enought to break them loose when you try again.
04-24-2008, 09:06 PM
#9
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I am occasionally required to remove such bolts professionally to repair ignitions or fit keys.
1-drill hole down center of head and drive a tight allan wrench or ez-out into the hole and back out
2-use stoutest pin punch that will fit, make a dent on the outermost edge you can get to of the head, then angle the punch in the dent and tap counter clockwise with a hammer. Do not gall metal over to the housing as you will tend to peen it together
3-Slot the head with a dremel cut-off wheel and use a screwdriver.
I like the punch the best
1-drill hole down center of head and drive a tight allan wrench or ez-out into the hole and back out
2-use stoutest pin punch that will fit, make a dent on the outermost edge you can get to of the head, then angle the punch in the dent and tap counter clockwise with a hammer. Do not gall metal over to the housing as you will tend to peen it together
3-Slot the head with a dremel cut-off wheel and use a screwdriver.
I like the punch the best
04-26-2008, 04:29 PM
#14
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Got those little suckers out today, but it was no small task!
Set up the drill press and blew through 3 bits! These suckers aren't made of brass they are Kryptonite!
Finally, I decided not to destroy any more bits and used a hacksaw to cut little groves in the bolt heads so I could get at them with a vice, hammer and screw driver!
Nothing that a couple of beers and some old fashion getter done engineering wont fix
Most importantly the top triple and switch both made it through the operation unscaved!
Set up the drill press and blew through 3 bits! These suckers aren't made of brass they are Kryptonite!
Finally, I decided not to destroy any more bits and used a hacksaw to cut little groves in the bolt heads so I could get at them with a vice, hammer and screw driver!
Nothing that a couple of beers and some old fashion getter done engineering wont fix
Most importantly the top triple and switch both made it through the operation unscaved!
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