griffin

Has anyone found the solution??

oh...and i had frontend springs done by hyperpro,..afterwards no change. Checked the headbearings while they where doing the springs. Could not feel any free play.

Could it be the brakepads?

ps: New here, no time to make ha hi-topic...so hi! Firestorm kicks ***!!

griffin

Kick!

jschmidt

Next measure your static preload. If its greater than about 30 mm and can't be adjusted, you need different springs. The problem makes the symptom you describe. Did it happen when you were testing the stopping traction on your new tires?

Here's the problem. None of the **** people are suggesting (me included I suppose) was changed by your tire install. It's either axle or calipers or perhaps a stripped lower fork cap nut. Then look to headbearings and fork seals. Then suspension related stuff like springing and fork oil.

I like to check the bearings with the wheel off. The test given above will tell if they are worn out, but it won't tell if they are simply too loose. They should be tight enough not to wobble but loose enough to turn easily.

But the problem didn't really start by a change in fork internals. I don't see any reason to be disassembling your forks just yet.

griffin

Static preload is perfect now,. thats the reason i fitted the springs.

Strange thing is, i can generate the clunking noise even by just braking moderately.

Oh and i'm not the topic starter ;-)
Did have new tires installed. But the problem was there before and its still there now.

Hawkrider

Did you guys use the self-centering washers? I'm referring to the ones with the slots in them - they look like "C"s. That helps center the spring in the fork tube. This could be a source of noise .

griffin

Cant say what washer they used.

For now i want to rule that out because hyperpro is pretty experienced with springs/shocks.

Tonight im going to detach one of the calipers, place some wood between the pistons and brake with one caliper. Hope to find out something usefull.

Pushing the frontwheel against the wall does not generate (at least not convinceing) the same click so 'm really thinking brakes. although off course there is a difference between braking and pushing the front against the wall.

Shitty problem this is.

JonnyRocket

my money says steering head bearings...

sit on the bike, and place your left thumb on the joint between the upper fork clamps and the frame (where the upper steering head bearing is), now roll the bike forward and grab/release/grab/release the brake quickly... if you can make it do the audible clunk, you'll feel it in the steering head as it moves in relation to the frame... adjust or replace as you see fit... over 15k miles i'd advise a replacement (tapered roller if possible)

jschmidt

I think they are just loose.

griffin

haha..! ;-)

Ok, wel ive heard about tightening them up in a quick in easy way with a screwdriver and a hammer.

Under the uper yoke i can see 2 (gold?) rings above each other. Should i just losen the upper one then tighten the lower one , an then tighten the upper again.

(cant seem to find the page i read this....)

@johnny Rocket: Cant say that i feel any play, i can feel the klak in trough the whole fork. Doenst matter where i put my hand (while someone else is rocking the bike).

twitcher

If you don't have a c-spanner then the screwdriver method will probably do it, if a bit crudely. you don't really need to loosen the upper ring first, it will loosen up when you tighten the lower nut. You probably won't have to tighten it too much, fractions of a turn make a big difference with head bearings. By doing it without removing the top triple you'll probably wreck the lock washer between the rings, but it's not a big deal if you get the top ring nice and snug. I hope that made sense.You could do the job in the time it takes you to read this.

shayne

Make sure you don't overtighten them Griffin. Get the front end off the ground while you re doing this, in order to get the adjustment just right.