front end clunk
04-14-2011, 04:25 PM
#1
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front end clunk
im noticing a clunk in my front end when i go over bumps. not sure what the hell it is. i still have a little play in the brakes even with the new buttons but it looks like the pads might be moving around a little so ill replace those soon. but ive noticed any time i hit a bump i feel a clunk in the front end. everything feels tight when i move things around so im not sure what it iss. i just set the sag on the bike myself in a quick fashion, its tighter than last year but i dont think having the suspension too tight would cause it to clunk. any thoughts?
04-14-2011, 05:27 PM
#3
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thats what i was thinking too. the only thing ive done this year is yanked a fork tube and then put it back in after pulling it apart. i measured the height of both tubes with a vernier so theyre both dead on. how would i check for head bearings?
04-14-2011, 05:40 PM
#4
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hi. the last page of the service manual maint section describes steering head bearing inspection. essencially, raise the front end and check the side-to-side rotation for unevenness, binds or vertical movement.
04-14-2011, 06:55 PM
#7
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sweet lucky me. i bet its a pita to replace too isnt it. the best part is i jsut put the front end back together and was feeling good about not having to pull it apart again, lol
04-14-2011, 07:30 PM
#8
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how are you guys suspending the front end in order to check the bearings in the stearing head? looks like i need to turn the bars side to side and check for play and binding and such. how are you guys suspending the bikes to do that?
04-15-2011, 04:31 AM
#10
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yeah ill check those while ive got her suspended from my rafters. when iyanked the fork tube i just raised it up by the top of the triples but i couldnt turn them side to side. ill have to get creative with a ratchet strap i think
04-15-2011, 05:44 AM
#11
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Have you considered that you may just be noticing the fork springs knocking against the inside of the fork tube? I've noticed that whenever I upgrade fork springs the knocking noise gets louder.
Also, I'm not sure what the book says about how to check bearings but I really don't think you need to hoist the bike at all. If you put your fingers right where the frame meets the steering stem, and rock the bike forwards and backwards while squeezing the front brake you can feel even the slightest amount of play.
One more thing, with the stock ball style bearings, usually in the dead center/straight position, they can pound imprints on the outer race. So you won't notice any play until the ***** are in the right spot on the outer race. Hope that helps.
Also, I'm not sure what the book says about how to check bearings but I really don't think you need to hoist the bike at all. If you put your fingers right where the frame meets the steering stem, and rock the bike forwards and backwards while squeezing the front brake you can feel even the slightest amount of play.
One more thing, with the stock ball style bearings, usually in the dead center/straight position, they can pound imprints on the outer race. So you won't notice any play until the ***** are in the right spot on the outer race. Hope that helps.
Last edited by NooB; 04-15-2011 at 05:47 AM.
04-15-2011, 08:51 AM
#12
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installling new steering bearings isn't hard I did it (with all-*****) as part of my fork swap.
This is how I suspended it:
Then I used a 2 foot length of 1x1 and a hammer to remove the old bearings, tapped the new ones in with the old bearings used to press on the outer rim of the new ones. No pics of the process, but easy enough.
After it looked like this:
This is how I suspended it:
Then I used a 2 foot length of 1x1 and a hammer to remove the old bearings, tapped the new ones in with the old bearings used to press on the outer rim of the new ones. No pics of the process, but easy enough.
After it looked like this:
04-15-2011, 09:31 AM
#14
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Haha lazn, that was one of the first threads I looked at when I found this site... I remember thinking,
a) Holy smokes, I'm allowed to do stuff like that? I'm pretty sure that method is not in the service manual...
b) Gotta love that Arizona cinder block wall and dirt yard!
a) Holy smokes, I'm allowed to do stuff like that? I'm pretty sure that method is not in the service manual...
b) Gotta love that Arizona cinder block wall and dirt yard!
04-15-2011, 10:08 AM
#15
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use your old bearing race on top of the new bearings to batter them into place. that way you can use your pounding tools of choice without damaging the new bearings and race.
getting the lower bearings completely seated on the steering stem was more difficult than i'd expected. i had to wail on that one much longer and more forcefully than i'd expected. you wanna make sure that it is actually seated all the way down at the bottom of the stem. it was such a project getting it fully seated that i took a picture of it when i finished.
finding moly-disulfide grease is about as easy as it is to say "molybdenum" really fast twice. here's a link to the stuff i use. it's high quality and easy to handle:
Sentry Solutions: Hi-Slip Grease
good luck.
--fred
Last edited by fred; 04-15-2011 at 10:47 AM.
04-15-2011, 02:09 PM
#16
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Have you considered that you may just be noticing the fork springs knocking against the inside of the fork tube? I've noticed that whenever I upgrade fork springs the knocking noise gets louder.
Also, I'm not sure what the book says about how to check bearings but I really don't think you need to hoist the bike at all. If you put your fingers right where the frame meets the steering stem, and rock the bike forwards and backwards while squeezing the front brake you can feel even the slightest amount of play.
One more thing, with the stock ball style bearings, usually in the dead center/straight position, they can pound imprints on the outer race. So you won't notice any play until the ***** are in the right spot on the outer race. Hope that helps.
Also, I'm not sure what the book says about how to check bearings but I really don't think you need to hoist the bike at all. If you put your fingers right where the frame meets the steering stem, and rock the bike forwards and backwards while squeezing the front brake you can feel even the slightest amount of play.
One more thing, with the stock ball style bearings, usually in the dead center/straight position, they can pound imprints on the outer race. So you won't notice any play until the ***** are in the right spot on the outer race. Hope that helps.
installling new steering bearings isn't hard I did it (with all-*****) as part of my fork swap.
This is how I suspended it:
Then I used a 2 foot length of 1x1 and a hammer to remove the old bearings, tapped the new ones in with the old bearings used to press on the outer rim of the new ones. No pics of the process, but easy enough.
After it looked like this:
This is how I suspended it:
Then I used a 2 foot length of 1x1 and a hammer to remove the old bearings, tapped the new ones in with the old bearings used to press on the outer rim of the new ones. No pics of the process, but easy enough.
After it looked like this:
nice i like that method. i think ill end up doing it the same way if i have to replace the bastards. thanks for the pics
i had put tapered bearings on my original steering stem and only realized after the fact that the lower brace was ever-so-slightly bent. so i also got to pull everything apart again.
use your old bearing race on top of the new bearings to batter them into place. that way you can use your pounding tools of choice without damaging the new bearings and race.
getting the lower bearings completely seated on the steering stem was more difficult than i'd expected. i had to wail on that one much longer and more forcefully than i'd expected. you wanna make sure that it is actually seated all the way down at the bottom of the stem. it was such a project getting it fully seated that i took a picture of it when i finished.
finding moly-disulfide grease is about as easy as it is to say "molybdenum" really fast twice. here's a link to the stuff i use. it's high quality and easy to handle:
Sentry Solutions: Hi-Slip Grease
good luck.
--fred
use your old bearing race on top of the new bearings to batter them into place. that way you can use your pounding tools of choice without damaging the new bearings and race.
getting the lower bearings completely seated on the steering stem was more difficult than i'd expected. i had to wail on that one much longer and more forcefully than i'd expected. you wanna make sure that it is actually seated all the way down at the bottom of the stem. it was such a project getting it fully seated that i took a picture of it when i finished.
finding moly-disulfide grease is about as easy as it is to say "molybdenum" really fast twice. here's a link to the stuff i use. it's high quality and easy to handle:
Sentry Solutions: Hi-Slip Grease
good luck.
--fred
awesome thanks fred, nothing worse than damaging the new stuff, imagine how angry id get. **** would get thrown through a wall for sure. haha. maybe a small fire
04-15-2011, 02:25 PM
#17
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sao i think its the steering head bearings. i went outside and grabbed the bars and just moving them side to side like im steering i feel them clunking in there, its choppy going side to side. guess i found a weekend project. thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated 
04-15-2011, 03:55 PM
#18
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you could (if you wanted to put it off for a bit) try tightening the steering head nut some. But really tapered bearings are better in the long run.
For the triple, cut the old race off with a dremel, but leave it in tact enough to use to pound on the new race. Put the triple in the freezer, the new bearing in the oven, then when one is cold and the other hot, put them together and use the old bearing to pound on. Edit: Or just take that part to a shop, it's should be cheap and is only one race (the bottom on the triple) that you would need them to put on.
The frame side is simple by comparison.
For the triple, cut the old race off with a dremel, but leave it in tact enough to use to pound on the new race. Put the triple in the freezer, the new bearing in the oven, then when one is cold and the other hot, put them together and use the old bearing to pound on. Edit: Or just take that part to a shop, it's should be cheap and is only one race (the bottom on the triple) that you would need them to put on.
The frame side is simple by comparison.
Last edited by lazn; 04-15-2011 at 03:57 PM.
04-15-2011, 04:15 PM
#19
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04-15-2011, 07:46 PM
#21
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as thetophatflash said: more clearance. The steering stem shrinks a bit, and the bearing race expands a bit and you don't have to hit things quite as hard.
04-16-2011, 04:31 AM
#22
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people have been freezing things like bearings for years to make them fit. its a trick used for doing carrier bearings on atvs aswell if you dont have a press. ive got a buddy with a shop, two in fact, ill get them to press it all together for me, just need to pull it apart first.
ill try tightening the nut a little bit. i found the big nut on top of the triple was able to take another 1/4 turn last night. im sure i could give it a bit more but i had the bars against my leg and just wanted to see if there was any more room for it to be tightened up. thanks again for the help
ill try tightening the nut a little bit. i found the big nut on top of the triple was able to take another 1/4 turn last night. im sure i could give it a bit more but i had the bars against my leg and just wanted to see if there was any more room for it to be tightened up. thanks again for the help
04-16-2011, 02:41 PM
#23
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maybe i'll improve on it by using liquid nitrogen and a pottery kiln... :0!
Last edited by fred; 04-16-2011 at 03:17 PM.
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