HELP! Bike wont Turn on after rectifer reinstall.
#1
HELP! Bike wont Turn on after rectifer reinstall. Problem Solved. Main Fuse Blown.
Wow, I am just not happy.
I just spent an hour re soldering the connections to the rectifier because i have gone through 2 of them in the last 2 years. So first i tested the alternator and it was totally fine. 1.4 ohms through each connection and no problems with grounding. I followed the instructions someone else told me on this site.
I then removed the rear fairing and one by one put on new connectors and i soldered them really good.
Then i put everything back and i reconnected the alternator plug and then the head lamp plug. I rode for 2 days with it disconnected because it just kept flashing to highs and then lows. I didnt want it to blow another headlamp.
So anyways, i got everything reconnected and then i went to turn her on and NOTHING! Nothing at all. No dash lights, no head lights, no marker lights. Completely dead. I then checked the battery. It is at 12.6V. I then tried to charge it. No go, after about 20 seconds it said, charged. I am in total and complete shock. I don't know how i could have done something to the starter circuit when i was working on the rectifier. I went through all of the fuses and even swapped them around just in case i couldn't see a bad one. Still nothing. I really need help.
Here are a few pix of what i was messing with today.
This is what it looked like after i finished today
What is the box connected to the rectifier? Could it have gone bad?
That is the only connector i disconnected today.
I just spent an hour re soldering the connections to the rectifier because i have gone through 2 of them in the last 2 years. So first i tested the alternator and it was totally fine. 1.4 ohms through each connection and no problems with grounding. I followed the instructions someone else told me on this site.
I then removed the rear fairing and one by one put on new connectors and i soldered them really good.
Then i put everything back and i reconnected the alternator plug and then the head lamp plug. I rode for 2 days with it disconnected because it just kept flashing to highs and then lows. I didnt want it to blow another headlamp.
So anyways, i got everything reconnected and then i went to turn her on and NOTHING! Nothing at all. No dash lights, no head lights, no marker lights. Completely dead. I then checked the battery. It is at 12.6V. I then tried to charge it. No go, after about 20 seconds it said, charged. I am in total and complete shock. I don't know how i could have done something to the starter circuit when i was working on the rectifier. I went through all of the fuses and even swapped them around just in case i couldn't see a bad one. Still nothing. I really need help.
Here are a few pix of what i was messing with today.
This is what it looked like after i finished today
What is the box connected to the rectifier? Could it have gone bad?
That is the only connector i disconnected today.
Last edited by viperkillertt; 06-19-2009 at 09:57 PM.
#2
Main Fuse Blown
Pull off the tail cowl. Trace the battery + cable to the starter solenoid. Unplug the 4 prong connector at the solenoid and you will find a 30 amp spade fuse (main). It is likely to have blown from the bad regulator. Install a new fuse and try again.
The problem you described as "the head lamp plug. I rode for 2 days with it disconnected because it just kept flashing to highs and then lows. I didnt want it to blow another headlamp." sounds like a symptom of a failed regulator. I experienced the same thing right before my main fuse blew due to a faulty regulator. Without that unit to govern the electrical system properly the alternator will produce power pulses which will damage electrical components. The fuse should blow first, but other parts have been known to fry as well, such as headlight, instruments, etc.
The problem you described as "the head lamp plug. I rode for 2 days with it disconnected because it just kept flashing to highs and then lows. I didnt want it to blow another headlamp." sounds like a symptom of a failed regulator. I experienced the same thing right before my main fuse blew due to a faulty regulator. Without that unit to govern the electrical system properly the alternator will produce power pulses which will damage electrical components. The fuse should blow first, but other parts have been known to fry as well, such as headlight, instruments, etc.
Last edited by BeerHunter; 06-19-2009 at 08:37 PM.
#4
Pull off the tail cowl. Trace the battery + cable to the starter solenoid. Unplug the 4 prong connector at the solenoid and you will find a 30 amp spade fuse (main). It is likely to have blown from the bad regulator. Install a new fuse and try again.
The problem you described as "the head lamp plug. I rode for 2 days with it disconnected because it just kept flashing to highs and then lows. I didnt want it to blow another headlamp." sounds like a symptom of a failed regulator. I experienced the same thing right before my main fuse blew due to a faulty regulator. Without that unit to govern the electrical system properly the alternator will produce power pulses which will damage electrical components. The fuse should blow first, but other parts have been known to fry as well, such as headlight, instruments, etc.
The problem you described as "the head lamp plug. I rode for 2 days with it disconnected because it just kept flashing to highs and then lows. I didnt want it to blow another headlamp." sounds like a symptom of a failed regulator. I experienced the same thing right before my main fuse blew due to a faulty regulator. Without that unit to govern the electrical system properly the alternator will produce power pulses which will damage electrical components. The fuse should blow first, but other parts have been known to fry as well, such as headlight, instruments, etc.
Also, why is the flasher unit directly wired to the rectifier?
#5
[QUOTE=viperkillertt;223201]Wow, I am just not happy.
I just spent an hour re soldering the connections to the rectifier because i have gone through 2 of them in the last 2 years.
you may want to read the link below:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=19181
I just spent an hour re soldering the connections to the rectifier because i have gone through 2 of them in the last 2 years.
you may want to read the link below:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=19181
#6
Wow, I am just not happy.
I just spent an hour re soldering the connections to the rectifier because i have gone through 2 of them in the last 2 years.
you may want to read the link below:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=19181
I just spent an hour re soldering the connections to the rectifier because i have gone through 2 of them in the last 2 years.
you may want to read the link below:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=19181
Last edited by viperkillertt; 06-21-2009 at 08:51 AM.
#7
Pull off the tail cowl. Trace the battery + cable to the starter solenoid. Unplug the 4 prong connector at the solenoid and you will find a 30 amp spade fuse (main). It is likely to have blown from the bad regulator. Install a new fuse and try again.
The problem you described as "the head lamp plug. I rode for 2 days with it disconnected because it just kept flashing to highs and then lows. I didnt want it to blow another headlamp." sounds like a symptom of a failed regulator. I experienced the same thing right before my main fuse blew due to a faulty regulator. Without that unit to govern the electrical system properly the alternator will produce power pulses which will damage electrical components. The fuse should blow first, but other parts have been known to fry as well, such as headlight, instruments, etc.
The problem you described as "the head lamp plug. I rode for 2 days with it disconnected because it just kept flashing to highs and then lows. I didnt want it to blow another headlamp." sounds like a symptom of a failed regulator. I experienced the same thing right before my main fuse blew due to a faulty regulator. Without that unit to govern the electrical system properly the alternator will produce power pulses which will damage electrical components. The fuse should blow first, but other parts have been known to fry as well, such as headlight, instruments, etc.
#8
[quote=viperkillertt;223221]
Before I started my company, I bought a new Honda unit, and it lasted about 45 days.
That was the end of the BS for me, lol.
Yeah, I am using a R6 Rectifier. My first one lasted over 2 years, but the new one isnt fixing the problem and i think it is bad also. It only lasted a week. I am going to get my money back, but i wanted to make sure my connections were good and my alternator was good before i got my money back.
That was the end of the BS for me, lol.
#9
No problem. Keep us informed as to the situation. If the second Yamaha Regulator that you have installed is faulty then I will just stick with the Honda parts from now on. No cut and splice trouble for me just to install another problematic unit.
Test the Stator!! Keep us informed as to your progress. And for the sake of the gods, download the Factory Shop Manual.
#10
I think you might be quoting viperk cause i have had one honda RR for approx 10 years along wit the OEM battery. i burned up a Rick's unit and an advance auto battery in a two week period, and now am back to honda RR and OEM yuasa. hopefully for another ten years.
Last edited by nath981; 06-21-2009 at 07:35 PM.
#11
AH OHHHH!! I think we have a problem with the site. The quote function is ******* up based on the past couple entries/
I quoted circuit burner and it showed viperk. CB quoted viperk and it showed up as nath.
I quoted circuit burner and it showed viperk. CB quoted viperk and it showed up as nath.
#12
No problem. Keep us informed as to the situation. If the second Yamaha Regulator that you have installed is faulty then I will just stick with the Honda parts from now on. No cut and splice trouble for me just to install another problematic unit.
Test the Stator!! Keep us informed as to your progress. And for the sake of the gods, download the Factory Shop Manual.
Test the Stator!! Keep us informed as to your progress. And for the sake of the gods, download the Factory Shop Manual.
I mentioned above that i tested the stator and it is perfect. 1.4 ohms across all connections.
I didn't ride at night last night, but i will soon. From what i could tell, it might be fixed. I tried to see in full sun light if it is flipping. I know it was worse on bad roads with lots of pot holes. I didnt notice the light popping up at all yesterday. I will update once i find out. Thanks again!
#13
-Josh
#14
Umm, it isnt really a problem with the system, you create your quotes when you write your post. Just delete the double quotes. All of the above ones have double quotes and it grabs the later quote, not the original. Or you might close the second set of quotes to fix it. As you see above, i corrected mine. just add a second
-Josh[/QUOTE]
well mr geek, thanks for clearing that up i think. I don't know how to do a double quote other than cut and paste, although I've seen them. Relative to this issue, when you click on quote for Circuit Burner, you expect to quote CB. When CB quoted, it showed my name with your words within. That may not be a problem for you but is for me, as well as for those who inadvertantly misquote.
#15
It is just HTML
-Josh
well mr geek, thanks for clearing that up i think. I don't know how to do a double quote other than cut and paste, although I've seen them. Relative to this issue, when you click on quote for Circuit Burner, you expect to quote CB. When CB quoted, it showed my name with your words within. That may not be a problem for you but is for me, as well as for those who inadvertently misquote.
-Josh
well mr geek, thanks for clearing that up i think. I don't know how to do a double quote other than cut and paste, although I've seen them. Relative to this issue, when you click on quote for Circuit Burner, you expect to quote CB. When CB quoted, it showed my name with your words within. That may not be a problem for you but is for me, as well as for those who inadvertently misquote.
try it on the 2 posts that you wrote earlier.
#16
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