Regulator rectifire on e-bay
06-16-2009, 10:21 AM
#1
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Squid
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Regulator rectifire on e-bay
I am in a need of a new unit. There is alot of R/R replacement on e-bay.
Is it better to stick with the OEM and R6 unit? Is there someone who try aftermarket?
This one is selling for 20$ new... Range from 20? to 109$
Is it better to stick with the OEM and R6 unit? Is there someone who try aftermarket?
This one is selling for 20$ new... Range from 20? to 109$
06-16-2009, 12:45 PM
#3
guru of things sparky
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I sell some really advanced ones, but they are not priced very cheap like those chinese models.
You can get lucky with a cheap one, you never know.
Plus those yamadog versions are fairly solid choices if you can get one cheap.
In reality, You always get what you pay for
You can get lucky with a cheap one, you never know.
Plus those yamadog versions are fairly solid choices if you can get one cheap.
In reality, You always get what you pay for
Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 06-16-2009 at 12:49 PM.
06-16-2009, 12:46 PM
#4
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I got mine at http://regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/
they have a couple different models to choose from.
they have a couple different models to choose from.
06-18-2009, 06:21 AM
#6
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Can't say why it worked for a week and then melted when I changed batteries. Thought possibly I had overcharged the new battery which I charged with a Battery Minder. I checked the voltage output of the new battery and found that it was not overcharged, so i really can't say definitively what went wrong. My feeling is that maybe if i would have allowed the battery to sit for a few hours after charging before I hooked the cables, it may not have fried the RR. Don't know????
06-18-2009, 01:19 PM
#8
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I will give you guys an inside tip.
Just sparking your battery cables against the battery or frame wrong will knock out the SCR in the regulator.
This normally creates R/R failure mode-B ( regulator dies and rectifier runs wild)
Like everything, sometimes it wont, but dont dare count on it not happening.
I think its an industry secret not to speew this out to the public so they can sell more.
But seriously, keep it to your superhawk selves, handle the positive cable only after you have connected the ground to negative. Otherwise capacitance of that big aluminum frame shocks the crap out of the device when negative is connected last.
No sparks! dont do it. Be a little more careful than a baboon and you will have these things (R/R) last longer.
Just sparking your battery cables against the battery or frame wrong will knock out the SCR in the regulator.
This normally creates R/R failure mode-B ( regulator dies and rectifier runs wild)
Like everything, sometimes it wont, but dont dare count on it not happening.
I think its an industry secret not to speew this out to the public so they can sell more.
But seriously, keep it to your superhawk selves, handle the positive cable only after you have connected the ground to negative. Otherwise capacitance of that big aluminum frame shocks the crap out of the device when negative is connected last.
No sparks! dont do it. Be a little more careful than a baboon and you will have these things (R/R) last longer.
Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 06-18-2009 at 01:22 PM.
06-18-2009, 04:50 PM
#9
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I will give you guys an inside tip.
Just sparking your battery cables against the battery or frame wrong will knock out the SCR in the regulator.
This normally creates R/R failure mode-B ( regulator dies and rectifier runs wild)
Like everything, sometimes it wont, but dont dare count on it not happening.
I think its an industry secret not to speew this out to the public so they can sell more.
But seriously, keep it to your superhawk selves, handle the positive cable only after you have connected the ground to negative. Otherwise capacitance of that big aluminum frame shocks the crap out of the device when negative is connected last.
No sparks! dont do it. Be a little more careful than a baboon and you will have these things (R/R) last longer.
Just sparking your battery cables against the battery or frame wrong will knock out the SCR in the regulator.
This normally creates R/R failure mode-B ( regulator dies and rectifier runs wild)
Like everything, sometimes it wont, but dont dare count on it not happening.
I think its an industry secret not to speew this out to the public so they can sell more.
But seriously, keep it to your superhawk selves, handle the positive cable only after you have connected the ground to negative. Otherwise capacitance of that big aluminum frame shocks the crap out of the device when negative is connected last.
No sparks! dont do it. Be a little more careful than a baboon and you will have these things (R/R) last longer.
good info there CB. Is this the first time you've let any of us in on this little secret or is this something everyone but me and a couple others are unaware of? Hell, I thought I was doing the right thing by securing the pos/hot first consistently. Should I discontinue this practice in all situations or is this procedure specific to the RR?
06-18-2009, 11:10 PM
#11
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Safety First ... ALWAYS!
I will give you guys an inside tip.
Just sparking your battery cables against the battery or frame wrong will knock out the SCR in the regulator.
This normally creates R/R failure mode-B ( regulator dies and rectifier runs wild)
Like everything, sometimes it wont, but dont dare count on it not happening.
I think its an industry secret not to speew this out to the public so they can sell more.
But seriously, keep it to your superhawk selves, handle the positive cable only after you have connected the ground to negative. Otherwise capacitance of that big aluminum frame shocks the crap out of the device when negative is connected last.
No sparks! dont do it. Be a little more careful than a baboon and you will have these things (R/R) last longer.
Just sparking your battery cables against the battery or frame wrong will knock out the SCR in the regulator.
This normally creates R/R failure mode-B ( regulator dies and rectifier runs wild)
Like everything, sometimes it wont, but dont dare count on it not happening.
I think its an industry secret not to speew this out to the public so they can sell more.
But seriously, keep it to your superhawk selves, handle the positive cable only after you have connected the ground to negative. Otherwise capacitance of that big aluminum frame shocks the crap out of the device when negative is connected last.
No sparks! dont do it. Be a little more careful than a baboon and you will have these things (R/R) last longer.
! ALWAYS ISOLATE THE POSITIVE TERMINAL ! What I have heard before and personally witnessed on more than one occasion is that connecting the positive battery terminal last is dangerous!! Your wrench can easily hit any metal part of the bike within close proximity to the battery while making contact with the positive terminal bolt as you tighten it down. This WILL create a direct short unprotected by any fuse whatsoever. At the very least sparks will fly and scare the **** out of you. These sparks could ignite hydrogen gas that commonly emanates from within the battery, or any fuel vapor (the gas tank is right there). In more extreme cases the tool contacting the metal frame, or the battery negative terminal directly, could become instantly welded in place and the short circuit will cause rapid heating of the battery. An explosion is almost certain to occur, and serious damage may happen as well as physical injury to you or other people nearby as plastic and lead shrapnel and battery acid go flying in all directions.
06-19-2009, 02:00 AM
#12
guru of things sparky
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It not like asking a crowd of people will produce a deciding answer on this either, lol.
I was just being nice, I dont have to tell these things.
06-19-2009, 05:16 AM
#13
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as noted previously, i have the feeling that since it was a brand new freshly charged battery and that the RR was built by Rick's to Honda specs(according to their own statement), that it may have been just enough juice to fry the RR. I say this because, it has never occurred before and I have always hooked up the pos first.
and what you're saying is that there is an increased likelihood of failure because of the fragile build of the hawk's RR. Is this correct?
Last edited by nath981; 06-19-2009 at 05:30 AM.
06-19-2009, 05:52 AM
#14
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I recommend an r6 unit put mine in worked fine first try never heard anyone knock the r6 units before I bought did my own research and used on ebay they're cheap yet reliable for what we're asking. plus you can get them with some pretty hefty fins which help out with cooling inside the cowl.
06-19-2009, 11:54 AM
#15
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are you saying that the only sub-system in jeopardy is the RR on the Superhawk, on all motorcycles, or all vehicles with RRs?
as noted previously, i have the feeling that since it was a brand new freshly charged battery and that the RR was built by Rick's to Honda specs(according to their own statement), that it may have been just enough juice to fry the RR. I say this because, it has never occurred before and I have always hooked up the pos first.
and what you're saying is that there is an increased likelihood of failure because of the fragile build of the hawk's RR. Is this correct?
as noted previously, i have the feeling that since it was a brand new freshly charged battery and that the RR was built by Rick's to Honda specs(according to their own statement), that it may have been just enough juice to fry the RR. I say this because, it has never occurred before and I have always hooked up the pos first.
and what you're saying is that there is an increased likelihood of failure because of the fragile build of the hawk's RR. Is this correct?
Its pretty much the same on all bikes actually.
Yamaha had a bulletin out to its service departments back in the day about this as well.
The Yamaha parts are just as fragile. but they offer such a good sink they tend to be survivors as far as day to day operation goes.
06-19-2009, 12:54 PM
#16
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I'm no expert on this, but doesn't the stator put out a lot more voltage than a battery. It would seem if the R/R can tame a stator, the battery wouldn't be an issue at all.
06-19-2009, 03:21 PM
#17
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They make a shitload more power than can be used, and every extra volt gets sent straight to ground thru the SCR.
Thats why riding fast all the time or racing really cooks them up good.
This explains the extra extra abundance of spare heat ready for anything you need it for ... like lighting cigarettes and cooking hotdogs or hamburgers.
Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 06-19-2009 at 03:26 PM.
06-19-2009, 04:24 PM
#19
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06-19-2009, 05:07 PM
#21
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06-19-2009, 05:11 PM
#22
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I will give you guys an inside tip.
Just sparking your battery cables against the battery or frame wrong will knock out the SCR in the regulator.
This normally creates R/R failure mode-B ( regulator dies and rectifier runs wild)
Like everything, sometimes it wont, but dont dare count on it not happening.
I think its an industry secret not to speew this out to the public so they can sell more.
But seriously, keep it to your superhawk selves, handle the positive cable only after you have connected the ground to negative. Otherwise capacitance of that big aluminum frame shocks the crap out of the device when negative is connected last.
No sparks! dont do it. Be a little more careful than a baboon and you will have these things (R/R) last longer.
Just sparking your battery cables against the battery or frame wrong will knock out the SCR in the regulator.
This normally creates R/R failure mode-B ( regulator dies and rectifier runs wild)
Like everything, sometimes it wont, but dont dare count on it not happening.
I think its an industry secret not to speew this out to the public so they can sell more.
But seriously, keep it to your superhawk selves, handle the positive cable only after you have connected the ground to negative. Otherwise capacitance of that big aluminum frame shocks the crap out of the device when negative is connected last.
No sparks! dont do it. Be a little more careful than a baboon and you will have these things (R/R) last longer.
06-19-2009, 06:15 PM
#23
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Yup, any isolation works, dont matter how close to the battery you go.
Honestly all you need to do, if you do this everytime you might make a spark,
just get a piece of radiator hose or other rubber non conductive tube and slip over the end of the positive cable to isolate it. Then you can baboon out on everything while working on the bike.
With that frame, and that magnesium motor full of oil (electrolyte), and all the other odd mix of dissimilar metals thrown in... theres no telling what the actual capacitance measurement might be.
That is an intriguing and interesting question as I think about it.
The schematic of the bike-capacitor would be like two electrolytic capacitors with both positives facing each other. Somewhere in the middle between these capacitors would be the discharge(shock) point where the measurement would take place.
Aluminum, non-ferrous structures like helicopter bodies are a heck of a capactor! ... maybe a mega-farad? I got bit once and thought MF myself.
I know that you dont walk up to an aircraft and lay your hand on it without connecting a grounding cable 1st. lol WHAAAM !
Honestly all you need to do, if you do this everytime you might make a spark,
just get a piece of radiator hose or other rubber non conductive tube and slip over the end of the positive cable to isolate it. Then you can baboon out on everything while working on the bike.
With that frame, and that magnesium motor full of oil (electrolyte), and all the other odd mix of dissimilar metals thrown in... theres no telling what the actual capacitance measurement might be.
That is an intriguing and interesting question as I think about it.
The schematic of the bike-capacitor would be like two electrolytic capacitors with both positives facing each other. Somewhere in the middle between these capacitors would be the discharge(shock) point where the measurement would take place.
Aluminum, non-ferrous structures like helicopter bodies are a heck of a capactor! ... maybe a mega-farad? I got bit once and thought MF myself.
I know that you dont walk up to an aircraft and lay your hand on it without connecting a grounding cable 1st. lol WHAAAM !
Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 06-19-2009 at 06:32 PM.
06-19-2009, 08:40 PM
#24
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Yup, any isolation works, dont matter how close to the battery you go.
Honestly all you need to do, if you do this everytime you might make a spark,
just get a piece of radiator hose or other rubber non conductive tube and slip over the end of the positive cable to isolate it. Then you can baboon out on everything while working on the bike.
With that frame, and that magnesium motor full of oil (electrolyte), and all the other odd mix of dissimilar metals thrown in... theres no telling what the actual capacitance measurement might be.
That is an intriguing and interesting question as I think about it.
The schematic of the bike-capacitor would be like two electrolytic capacitors with both positives facing each other. Somewhere in the middle between these capacitors would be the discharge(shock) point where the measurement would take place.
Aluminum, non-ferrous structures like helicopter bodies are a heck of a capactor! ... maybe a mega-farad? I got bit once and thought MF myself.
I know that you dont walk up to an aircraft and lay your hand on it without connecting a grounding cable 1st. lol WHAAAM !
Honestly all you need to do, if you do this everytime you might make a spark,
just get a piece of radiator hose or other rubber non conductive tube and slip over the end of the positive cable to isolate it. Then you can baboon out on everything while working on the bike.
With that frame, and that magnesium motor full of oil (electrolyte), and all the other odd mix of dissimilar metals thrown in... theres no telling what the actual capacitance measurement might be.
That is an intriguing and interesting question as I think about it.
The schematic of the bike-capacitor would be like two electrolytic capacitors with both positives facing each other. Somewhere in the middle between these capacitors would be the discharge(shock) point where the measurement would take place.
Aluminum, non-ferrous structures like helicopter bodies are a heck of a capactor! ... maybe a mega-farad? I got bit once and thought MF myself.
I know that you dont walk up to an aircraft and lay your hand on it without connecting a grounding cable 1st. lol WHAAAM !
hey, thanks for sharing your secrets and your electrical expertise even though for the most part I don't know WTF you're talking about.
04-03-2010, 09:44 PM
#25
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great information in this thread. so how about this, i need to replace my rr, i ordered one hopefully it shows up mid week. what if i yank the main fuse and then connect the battery, and then plug in the main fuse, is that the same as going negative first? shouldnt be any spark from that? or what if i leave therr unhooked, connect the battery and then plug in the rr after that, is that safe to do?
04-04-2010, 06:29 AM
#26
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probably will work. I'm not an electrical whiz, but I have wired and messed with a little. When I hooked mine up, I attached the pos first and as i was screwing on the neg nut, I heard a sizzling, then smoke, and by the time I unscrewed the grnd, it was too late. What I would do now is to do the opposite, but I would hold the pos on the post and watch the RR to see if it was going to elicit any symptoms and if so, immediately pull the pos away. Do I understand why or what happened, or whether it was a faulty RR? The answer is NO. The one I burned up was built by Rick's $90 and they sent me a free replacement. I felt bad after I found out that I should have hooked it up differently. But, in the meantime i bought a new one from the local honda shop and hooked it up the way I described above holding my breath, but it worked, so now I have a spare. That's all i can help you with because that's what happened to me.
04-04-2010, 05:35 PM
#27
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