California69gs

OK, I don't have a clue. Riding the 98 VTR today and I had to slow down rapidly for a curve, put a nice lean into it and when I went to crack the throttle after rounding off.... "nothing".......looked down and the oil light was on. Flicked the start button and away I went.

Continued down the interstate and 20 miles later exited off a ramp coasted to a stop and it was dead...again it had killed on me. Flicked ther start button and again, away I went.

I'm clueless, I'm sure it's something stupid......wasn't the kill switch....LoL!

Got a friend going to take a look at it, he thinks maybe a lose kickstand? Doesn't seem lose to me. But he's putting some D&D pipes on it for me in exchange for twisting the throttle till the tank runs dry.

Thumper

Just a thought, are you pulling in the clutch for an extended time say 2 to 3 seconds and while throttle is off. If so the engine may just be stopping.

The SuperHawk are notorious for engine dying while trying to coast with throttle at rest and clutch pulled in.

California69gs

actaully yeah.........both times that's exactly what happened? Is there a way to fix it? Killing on the interstate is not cool.

PJay

Well, if that's all it is, try letting the clutch out gently with it still in gear - should just start up again with no drama. Mine's like that, and it's a 2006 version. (You may need to kick it down a gear or two while the engine's dead, that's all...but you do not need to stop the wheels turning or to use the starter.)

Hawkrider

Yup, like PJay said, it's pretty much normal for the VTR. Mine used to do it all the time when newer. Now for some reason, I've no idea why, it just doesn't do it anymore. I can coast all day at 50mph. Before I would pull in the clutch and it would die at anything over 25mph.

RK1

The only times I ever coast with the clutch in is when I need my throttle hand to scratch a place I can't reach with the other one.

Other than that the only time I have the clutch in is for the instant I'm changing gears or when actually stopping.

When I'm cornering, whether decellerating, holding steady throttle or gassing it, the bike feels more stable to me if the clutch is out.

I have noted that the bike will stall if coasting with clutch in, I'm not sure why. I just don't coast with the clutch in.

California69gs

Now that you guys are talking about it, it did do this same thing to me the first day I was riding it......figured I just did something wrong...everytime it stalls I pull in the clutch, hit the starter and it fires right back up.

falcondrvr

you'll get used to it after a little bit. The superhawk is really the only bike i've ever ridden so i guess it was a little easier cause i didn't have to unlearn any habits. also if you go on Greg's website there is a minor carb mod that you can do that might help a little with this problem. it helped my bike but it's all really just a mystery to me.

http://home.nycap.rr.com/ghlbo/index.html

California69gs

that is so weird....thanks for the link

lazn

just modulate the throttle instead of pulling in the clutch, unless you are actually stopping.

autoteach

I have found that in slower turns where the torque can throw off your balance, its best to keep revs up and slip the clutch. Seems to keep me faster thru and more balanced.

California69gs

This would certainly be a new way of driving for me. So use the engine to slow down entering a curve then open the throttle during exit and not use the clutch at all?

lazn

The "proper" way to corner doesn't involve the clutch, it is to: "slow, roll, look, and press."

Here is what I was taught at the MSF (and already knew from riding since I was 4, but they explain it well)

SLOW. As you're approaching the corner, you need to slow to a suitable entry speed. A suitable entry speed is one that allows you to roll on the throttle and accelerate all the way through the curve. As you slow, you're going to position your bike for the turn. Position it to the outside of the turn. This means for a right turn, you're going to position your bike 2-4 feet from the left side, the centerline. (Oncoming traffic may require you to move farther right.) For a left turn, position your bike 2-4 feet from the right side, the fog (white) line.

ROLL. Once you've set your entry speed, it is critical that you're back on the throttle. You don't have to whack it open, but it needs to be "open"--that is, positive throttle--all the way through the turn. Decelerating or rolling off mid-turn destabilizes the bike, reduces traction, and reduces cornering clearance. Smooth, open throttle is what you want. NOTE: You haven't started turning yet! You've only slowed down, then opened the throttle back up.

LOOK. You have to focus your head and eyes on where your bike is going to be in 2-4 seconds. Your bike will want to go where you're looking. Look as far through the turn as you can to find the exit--the point on the road where the turn is finished and you're going straight again. Since your bike will want to go where you're looking, you want to avoid staring down at the ground in front of the front tire. You don't want to go there. You also want to avoid looking at the edge of the road, the ditch, the oncoming traffic, the trees, the gravel shoulder, etc. Stare at those things long enough and guess what? Your bike will go there. Focus on where you want your bike to be in 2-4 seconds. NOTE: You still haven't turned in yet. You're still set up on the outside of the turn and you're following the curve of the road only.

PRESS. Press on the handlebar to lean the bike into the turn. This requires countersteering. To lean right, press forward on the RIGHT handlebar (or pull backward on the left handlebar, if that makes more sense.) To lean left, press forward on the LEFT handlebar, or pull back on the right.

slow, roll, look, and press

redman