Disabled PAIR, bike runs terrible!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 247
From: Palm Bay, FL
Disabled PAIR, bike runs terrible!
I followed Greg's instructions on his site and flipped the reed-stops on both PAIR valves and was careful to make sure they were lined up straight when I put the screws back in. I reinstalled the valves and torqued everything down, and left the PAIR hoses attached. Bike ran fine at first but as soon as it got hot, it started backfiring out the exhaust real bad on decel, not normal PAIR pops but actual flaming backfires. And the bike was a lot louder and had NO power. I figured, oh I probably didn't tighten one of the valves down, hence the noise, but when I rechecked them they were both tight and the gaskets seemed intact?
Anyone have any experience with this? I put the valves back the way they were and it runs fine. I'd rather disable the system, but not knowing why this happened, I'd hate to hurt the motor for something as 'non-essential' as the PAIR system.
Thanks guys.
Anyone have any experience with this? I put the valves back the way they were and it runs fine. I'd rather disable the system, but not knowing why this happened, I'd hate to hurt the motor for something as 'non-essential' as the PAIR system.
Thanks guys.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 247
From: Palm Bay, FL
So none of those lines have ever come off. When I disabled the system, *ALL* I did was flip the red stops and bolt the things back down, nothing else was altered or taken off
Administrator
World Champion
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 105,287
From: Fulton, MO
Hmmm, I know that at least in '02 on the RC51 Honda changed their PAIR valve design in that you had to actually bend the reed stops some in order to keep the reed pressed against its seat. The only thing I can recommend is to do a permanent disabling of PAIR by filling the valve cover nipple with JB Weld. I did this on the RC51 and never had any problems.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 206
From: Purcell, OK
I did the job according Greg's write up and I made some aluminum plates to go inplace of the original cover and plugged the big hole in the air box with a large vac plug and a screw to plug vac line on carbs. Bike runs great
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 154
From: flagstaff ,az
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TPO-H...QQcmdZViewItem
This would be the way I go , plan to soon, aamof
This would be the way I go , plan to soon, aamof
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 428
The best way is to cap everything off and be sure to use hose clamps. Flipping the reeds actually allows exhaust to flow right out of the valve. Leave the reeds the same way you found them. The easiest way to do it is a rubber stopper in the airbox air outlet and then put the stock hose back over it.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
Does TBR still make the block off plates. I bought a set years ago and installed them. I yanked all of the pair lines, and all the Pair crap under the tank as well and then blocked off the air boxes holes acccordinly. Made a huge difference in how mine ran, and save a few onces of weight to boot.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 247
From: Palm Bay, FL
Well for the moment I reinstalled the reeds the way they were and rode it...it's back to normal now. I've been hitting the overtime at work so I haven't had time to really play with it and try to figure out just what the hell is going on, I suspect the gasket slipped off on the rear valve and it was leaking....
I'll let yall know if it acts up again and/or I figure out what's going on!
I'll let yall know if it acts up again and/or I figure out what's going on!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
EngineNoO9
General Discussion
8
Sep 11, 2006 07:23 PM
EngineNoO9
Technical Discussion
9
Dec 22, 2005 01:06 PM
