pair system disabled. at low rpms the bike'll shake...
12-21-2005, 06:55 PM
#4
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,011
all I did was flip the reeds around... i didn't have it do it when I was riding it and up to temp... explain exactly what you're talking about loco. I did the tutorial as explained in the knowledge base and didn't remove the entire system though
12-21-2005, 08:02 PM
#5
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SuperSport
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 882
Re: pair system disabled. at low rpms the bike'll shake...
At what RPM is the problem occurring?
What is your engine idle speed now? (should be 1200-1300)
Do you have any leaks at the Reed Valve cover plate?
Where does that extra fuel combustion sound come from (this worries me)
Did you plug the vacuum line to the PAIR actuator valve?
Sounds like a leak or too low idle....or both!
The PAIR system injects air into the exhaust port to burn any leftover unburned fuel in the exhaust port & pipe.
This creates a leaner condition and affects engine idle speed.
By removiing that extra air it will slow the idle speed down.
I completely removed my PAIR system when I rejetted the carbs.
I used KyleUSA RC51 block off plates over the reed valves. ($22)
http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/pair_...es_3270136.htm
Fit perfectly using the factory bolts.
They are anodized about the same color as the honda valve covers too.
I did not reverse the reed valves, just covered them with the block off plates.
The rubber seal worked to seal the block off plates. (Is your seal OK?)
Someone on here had some block off plates for sale in the classified section. Dunno if they are still there.
I had 1st tried plugging the rubber hose connected to the reed valve cover.
I found when I used the cover plates it made a better seal and I had to adjust the idle (that's why I asked about your idle speed after the mod)
My plug job was leaking a little even tho it seemed a tight seal!
What is your engine idle speed now? (should be 1200-1300)
Do you have any leaks at the Reed Valve cover plate?
Where does that extra fuel combustion sound come from (this worries me)
Did you plug the vacuum line to the PAIR actuator valve?
Sounds like a leak or too low idle....or both!
The PAIR system injects air into the exhaust port to burn any leftover unburned fuel in the exhaust port & pipe.
This creates a leaner condition and affects engine idle speed.
By removiing that extra air it will slow the idle speed down.
I completely removed my PAIR system when I rejetted the carbs.
I used KyleUSA RC51 block off plates over the reed valves. ($22)
http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/pair_...es_3270136.htm
Fit perfectly using the factory bolts.
They are anodized about the same color as the honda valve covers too.
I did not reverse the reed valves, just covered them with the block off plates.
The rubber seal worked to seal the block off plates. (Is your seal OK?)
Someone on here had some block off plates for sale in the classified section. Dunno if they are still there.
I had 1st tried plugging the rubber hose connected to the reed valve cover.
I found when I used the cover plates it made a better seal and I had to adjust the idle (that's why I asked about your idle speed after the mod)
My plug job was leaking a little even tho it seemed a tight seal!
12-22-2005, 07:21 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
I used KyleUSA RV51 block off plates over the reed valves. ($22)
http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/pair_...es_3270136.htm
Fit perfectly using the factory bolts.
They are anodized about the same color as the honda valve covers too.
I did not reverse the reed valves, just covered them with the block off plates.
12-22-2005, 08:51 AM
#7
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,011
the seals looked fine to me. idle didn't seem to change. I'm not sure if it's combustion or what but the bike'll shake a lil maybe for now I should switch them back.... I'll try and reseal them both but it ran fine at temp and when riding... removing the full system is coming.
12-22-2005, 09:59 AM
#8
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 882
I used KyleUSA RV51 block off plates over the reed valves. ($22)
http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/pair_...es_3270136.htm
Fit perfectly using the factory bolts.
They are anodized about the same color as the honda valve covers too.
I did not reverse the reed valves, just covered them with the block off plates.
I askked if I could try them & if they did not fit send them back.
They said OK.
The RC51 plates are a perfect match!
12-22-2005, 10:29 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
I used KyleUSA RV51 block off plates over the reed valves. ($22)
http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/pair_...es_3270136.htm
Fit perfectly using the factory bolts.
They are anodized about the same color as the honda valve covers too.
I did not reverse the reed valves, just covered them with the block off plates.
I askked if I could try them & if they did not fit send them back.
They said OK.
The RC51 plates are a perfect match!
Fingers typing out an order righttttttttttttttt. Now
12-22-2005, 01:06 PM
#10
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 882
Re: pair system disabled. at low rpms the bike'll shake...
I left the reed valves in place in the stock position (not flipping them)
The rubber (neoprene?) seal fit the block off plates perfectly & made a good seal.
Remove the rest of the PAIR system while you are at it.
Make sure to cap off the vacuum line
There will be a "T" fitting at the carbs left open when you unplug the vacuum PAIR valve actuator vacuum hose.
A simple automotive type vacuum cap plug goes there.
Also plug the left over hole in the bottom of the air box.
These are used for automotive radiators.
It's a 3/4" cap plug if I remember correctly.
I put a stainless steel thin band Ideal hose clamp on mine as a little extra insurance it won''t get popped off with a backfire thru the carbs/airbox
If you haven't gotten it yet download the shop manual here....it will help
http://www.gofastvideo.com/gallery/i...ce-manual.html
The parts you need to do it are avaliable at the auto parts store.
Dang.....I was just in the carbs the other day (replacing the idle jets)
I could have taken some pics to send to you of my removal
Readjust your idle after you're finished. I set mine at 1300 by the bikes tach (instead of the 1200 called for in the manual)
Dang I am long winded....I'll stop now
Post up if you need anything
Cheers, Bill
(and Merry Christmas ! )
The rubber (neoprene?) seal fit the block off plates perfectly & made a good seal.
Remove the rest of the PAIR system while you are at it.
Make sure to cap off the vacuum line
There will be a "T" fitting at the carbs left open when you unplug the vacuum PAIR valve actuator vacuum hose.
A simple automotive type vacuum cap plug goes there.
Also plug the left over hole in the bottom of the air box.
These are used for automotive radiators.
It's a 3/4" cap plug if I remember correctly.
I put a stainless steel thin band Ideal hose clamp on mine as a little extra insurance it won''t get popped off with a backfire thru the carbs/airbox
If you haven't gotten it yet download the shop manual here....it will help
http://www.gofastvideo.com/gallery/i...ce-manual.html
The parts you need to do it are avaliable at the auto parts store.
Dang.....I was just in the carbs the other day (replacing the idle jets)
I could have taken some pics to send to you of my removal
Readjust your idle after you're finished. I set mine at 1300 by the bikes tach (instead of the 1200 called for in the manual)
Dang I am long winded....I'll stop now
Post up if you need anything
Cheers, Bill
(and Merry Christmas ! )
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