Did a bad bad thing
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,548
From: MN
maybe only still have a dead battery? I've had bad luck jumping mine as well - I don't know anything about electricity but never have any luck jumping the SH batter with the car - but I haven't hurt anything trying either.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,572
From: Buffalo, NY
Normally there isn't a problem jumping a bike with a car battery, I have done it afew times when I had no other option - I would highly suggest that the car is not running when you do it though. A 12volt battery is a 12 volt battery just one has a lot higher cranking power. Check for dirty connections including the wire at the starter and make sure they are clean and tight. You can jump the starter solenoid (the thing thats clicking) if the starter engages it could be a bad solenoid - had one get tired on my '84 VT500FT. Check the fuses as well...
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,689
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA, USA
I had a similar thing happen. Not when I jumped with the car battery, that was ok. But the click, click, no start.
I had corroded terminals on the starter relay, mounted on the rear subframe on the left side. Pull the connector off and check the terminals. It's been a long time, but that's my recollection.
I had corroded terminals on the starter relay, mounted on the rear subframe on the left side. Pull the connector off and check the terminals. It's been a long time, but that's my recollection.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3
Sincerest Gratitude guys am worried though
Do see on a schematic that the starter relay does have a 30 amp fuse, so am hoping that it blew and protected the electric's. Will check all connects too.
Anyone now how to check a starter relay to see if it's still good should the fuse not be blown?
BUT, I did have the CAR running when I did it.
( dumb... I now.
Certainly hope it's not the R/R, thinking that's kinda pricey.
Again, thank you all for responding in my time of desperation.
Mac
Anyone now how to check a starter relay to see if it's still good should the fuse not be blown?
BUT, I did have the CAR running when I did it.
( dumb... I now. Certainly hope it's not the R/R, thinking that's kinda pricey.
Again, thank you all for responding in my time of desperation.
Mac
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3
RC 51 and Penske Shock
Cliby,
Had inquired about having the rear shock re-worked but was told it's a "sealed" unit and cannot be done. Aftermarket wise what would you say I should pay for a new (used if I can find and rebuild if necessary) shock?
Also, are there any major mods to get the RC51 front end to drop in?
Mac
Had inquired about having the rear shock re-worked but was told it's a "sealed" unit and cannot be done. Aftermarket wise what would you say I should pay for a new (used if I can find and rebuild if necessary) shock?
Also, are there any major mods to get the RC51 front end to drop in?
Mac
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
I think I have jumped mine as much as ten times? and all the times I have had the car running... no problems at all... (I had a tad R/R problems last summer)
You just need to know what you are doing, that's all...
Connect the black cable to the bikes frame and the cars frame, then hook the red one to the positive pole on the car battery... lay it to the battery pole on the bike and press the starter, promptly remove it once the bike starts...
Or hook up both battery poles to each other and spend the next millenia changing fuses and repairing the ECU on both car and bike...
You just need to know what you are doing, that's all...
Connect the black cable to the bikes frame and the cars frame, then hook the red one to the positive pole on the car battery... lay it to the battery pole on the bike and press the starter, promptly remove it once the bike starts...
Or hook up both battery poles to each other and spend the next millenia changing fuses and repairing the ECU on both car and bike...
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
back in '98 and just got it back for having the oil changed for the second time in it (well it is 10 yrs old now) and it works great for street applications. If you're going to the track, then I would get an aftermarket unit but for street work a rebuilt stocker works just fine.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 499
From: Kansas City
Well I'll jump in here and say that whoever told you that is full of it. Unless Honda redesigned the shock (which I can't believe) it can be rebuilt. I had mine re valved and re sprung by Lindemann (http://www.le-suspension.com/)
back in '98 and just got it back for having the oil changed for the second time in it (well it is 10 yrs old now) and it works great for street applications. If you're going to the track, then I would get an aftermarket unit but for street work a rebuilt stocker works just fine.
back in '98 and just got it back for having the oil changed for the second time in it (well it is 10 yrs old now) and it works great for street applications. If you're going to the track, then I would get an aftermarket unit but for street work a rebuilt stocker works just fine.
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MotoGP
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,708
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World Champion
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 105,287
From: Fulton, MO
Yeah, I had a buddy back in ~2000 that had a Victory no more than 3 weeks old. For some reason his battery went dead. When he went to jump the bike using a car he completely fried his wiring harness. Dunno about the design of the electrical system on that bike and I'd think a fuse would have given way first, but after seeing that I learned not to do it on my own bikes.
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,132
From: Phoenix, AZ
With a good functioning wiring harness the # of amps available doesn't matter.
However if there is a fault in the bike's wiring the car battery now has the amperage to melt the wires etc much more easily.
You can kinda think of it like a water pipe, the amps is the size of the pipe, the voltage is the water pressure. If you increase the water pressure it will force things badly, if you only increase the size of the pipe you have more water available, but it isn't pressing any harder. Not exact but kinda the idea.
Last edited by lazn; Apr 20, 2008 at 09:39 AM.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,572
From: Buffalo, NY
pretty good analogy but I would go with comparing a water tank of 50 gallons to one with 500 gallons both using the same size pipe and the same pressure... I do have a degree in electronics so unless like lazn said there is an electrical problem in the bike OR someone messes up and reverses the polarity there should be no ill effects. I would however as I said before not have the car/truck running while jumping the bike.
That just means more power available, it won't make the motorcycle draw more. (the starter will only draw the amps it uses no matter how many are available)
With a good functioning wiring harness the # of amps available doesn't matter.
However if there is a fault in the bike's wiring the car battery now has the amperage to melt the wires etc much more easily.
You can kinda think of it like a water pipe, the amps is the size of the pipe, the voltage is the water pressure. If you increase the water pressure it will force things badly, if you only increase the size of the pipe you have more water available, but it isn't pressing any harder. Not exact but kinda the idea.
With a good functioning wiring harness the # of amps available doesn't matter.
However if there is a fault in the bike's wiring the car battery now has the amperage to melt the wires etc much more easily.
You can kinda think of it like a water pipe, the amps is the size of the pipe, the voltage is the water pressure. If you increase the water pressure it will force things badly, if you only increase the size of the pipe you have more water available, but it isn't pressing any harder. Not exact but kinda the idea.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,455
From: Williamsburg, VA
I just don't see what difference running or not could make. The 800 or however many amps are coming from the battery, not the charging system. So the amps are in the system if the car is running or not.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,572
From: Buffalo, NY
It probably doesn't but if the car is putting out 15.5 which is not uncommon it could make an already iffy R/R or ECU go bad... Since some of these that have had R/R failures were running just fine with 18+ v with the exception of blowing light bulbs I don't think the ECU will mind if the car is running or not. I have always heard to not have the car running so I go with that advice, AAA road service also recommends this to their tow truck drivers when jumping a bike... your results may vary.
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Superstock
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 265
From: About 57 miles south of VIR
The only issue is the higher charge rate of the auto. Of course, assuming your polarity (red-positive, black-negative) is correct.
You can overdrive the battery with prolonged high (4-8 amp) charge rates. Thats why battery chargers come with the 2 amp rate for small equipment.
An electrical engineer with the system design info could tell you if high charge rates will damage the regulator and associated circuits. My guess is, it will.
You can overdrive the battery with prolonged high (4-8 amp) charge rates. Thats why battery chargers come with the 2 amp rate for small equipment.
An electrical engineer with the system design info could tell you if high charge rates will damage the regulator and associated circuits. My guess is, it will.
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