Daily Battery Tender Jr. Use?
06-04-2014, 10:19 PM
#1
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Daily Battery Tender Jr. Use?
Just got a new battery from Pep Boys, store brand or whatever. In researching this replacement, I came across the suggestion that daily float (not trickle) charger use is a good idea. I have a Battery Tender Jr, "Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V Battery Charger," about $25 at Amazon.
Is that a good idea? Seems valid. If it is, should I wait for the bike/battery to cool down before plugging it in?
Pros/Cons?
I ride almost exclusively to work and back, about 16 miles each way, weekdays only.
Thanks.
Is that a good idea? Seems valid. If it is, should I wait for the bike/battery to cool down before plugging it in?
Pros/Cons?
I ride almost exclusively to work and back, about 16 miles each way, weekdays only.
Thanks.
06-05-2014, 05:30 PM
#2
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 9
In the 30 years I've been riding I've never heard of anyone doing anything like that on a daily schedule. The only time I throw a charger on mine is during the winter when I put one of them away.
I've also never had a battery go bad "before it's time" doing it like this. My batteries always last years, even when I keep a bike out for winter so I can ride on the nice days and it sits for weeks at a time not being started in the cold.
A bike battery is no different than your car. Would you bother to throw your car battery on a charger every day?
I've also never had a battery go bad "before it's time" doing it like this. My batteries always last years, even when I keep a bike out for winter so I can ride on the nice days and it sits for weeks at a time not being started in the cold.
A bike battery is no different than your car. Would you bother to throw your car battery on a charger every day?
06-05-2014, 05:56 PM
#3
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Western NY
Posts: 347
Battery Tenders (Deltran Brand) are great as they have automatic modes that only kick-on when needed. For this reason you can leave them plugged in and they activate only when the battery needs it.
I have three bikes in the garage and each one is hooked up to a Tender when not being ridden. I just replaced the battery in my 2003 DRZ400e (converted to SM) last summer. It was the original battery. It's cheap insurance and I've been doing this for years.
I use the pigtail lead (sae plug on one end) that is left connected to the battery terminals so it's easy to just plug it in when I get back from a ride. I don't ride my three bikes every day like I drive my truck, and living in Buffalo there are many months that the bikes don't get touched. The Tenders help the batteries last.
I have three bikes in the garage and each one is hooked up to a Tender when not being ridden. I just replaced the battery in my 2003 DRZ400e (converted to SM) last summer. It was the original battery. It's cheap insurance and I've been doing this for years.
I use the pigtail lead (sae plug on one end) that is left connected to the battery terminals so it's easy to just plug it in when I get back from a ride. I don't ride my three bikes every day like I drive my truck, and living in Buffalo there are many months that the bikes don't get touched. The Tenders help the batteries last.
06-05-2014, 06:41 PM
#4
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,033
Arstine, here is your first word of a bike battery going bad before its time due to daily charging.
They don't design bike or car batteries to be charged constantly as they discharge. You can and will boil the water off the sealed battery with constant charging.
Take like one day a week and leave it one overnight. Or if you are in a lot of traffic in heat (heat kills batteries) and the fan is running a lot.
The manufacturer knows that 9 out of 9 batteries are going to not be used constantly, especially bikes, quads, jetskis, etc. so build them accordingly.
I have had sealed batteries go totally dry on me with daily charging (yes a smart charger), and live way longer without.
Note: I ride every single day so that is unusual, but some of my bikes sit for a long time.
They don't design bike or car batteries to be charged constantly as they discharge. You can and will boil the water off the sealed battery with constant charging.
Take like one day a week and leave it one overnight. Or if you are in a lot of traffic in heat (heat kills batteries) and the fan is running a lot.
The manufacturer knows that 9 out of 9 batteries are going to not be used constantly, especially bikes, quads, jetskis, etc. so build them accordingly.
I have had sealed batteries go totally dry on me with daily charging (yes a smart charger), and live way longer without.
Note: I ride every single day so that is unusual, but some of my bikes sit for a long time.
06-05-2014, 07:04 PM
#5
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Western NY
Posts: 347
Sounds like your smart charger wasn't so smart after all. I won't argue the point beyond this post, just that I've only used deltran Battery Tenders so my experience is based solely on their use over the last 15-20 yrs of riding. Always leave them plugged in, never had an issue.
Happy charging.
Happy charging.
06-07-2014, 11:31 PM
#6
Deals Gap is a Hoot!
Back Marker
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: St. Louis, Mizzery
Posts: 104
Battery tenders
VTRDarren I could not agree with you more!
Battery tenders are the only way to go and like you my 3 bikes all have one and are on the Tenders as I type this response.
I have used Battery Tenders for well over 10 years now and have never cooked a battery yet.
You have to be real careful when using a "car starter / charger" when charging a battery as they will boil the water out of the M/C battery overnight which I have done a few times over the years.
Using a Tender I have never had a problem, as VTRDarren mentioned hook up a pig tail to your battery for quick safe connect and disconnecting of the Tender.
Best of luck!
SIRR1
Battery tenders are the only way to go and like you my 3 bikes all have one and are on the Tenders as I type this response.
I have used Battery Tenders for well over 10 years now and have never cooked a battery yet.
You have to be real careful when using a "car starter / charger" when charging a battery as they will boil the water out of the M/C battery overnight which I have done a few times over the years.
Using a Tender I have never had a problem, as VTRDarren mentioned hook up a pig tail to your battery for quick safe connect and disconnecting of the Tender.
Best of luck!
SIRR1
06-08-2014, 10:32 PM
#7
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 213
I've got 4 bikes that sit with Deltran Battery tenders on nearly constantly. 2 of the bikes are 06's with original batteries. My Hawk has the same battery since I bought the bike in 09 and it was flat when I bought it. I don't think the tenders are screwing up the batteries!
07-07-2015, 12:05 PM
#8
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Edit: I hijacked my own thread at this point. Any meaningful discussion about daily tender use is above. From here it's more about troubleshooting a battery that's failing to charge.
Still having battery issues, would appreciate some input.
I'm currently using the tender daily, but I've had the battery fail to start for me twice in two weeks: Ride to work, ride home, get gas, won't start at the gas station. It's within pushing distance of a hill big enough to roll start so I was able to get it home.
Since the battery was new last year and I was riding daily, I didn't plug it in to the tender except for a weeklong vacation. I let the bike sit for about two months during the rainy season (AKA winter in non-SoCal). I did not use the tender at that time because smokinjoe73's comment above had stuck in my mind. Bike started fine until sometime around June of this year I think. Wouldn't start at work one day, had to push it up the parking structure ramp and roll it. Been using the tender daily after that. First time it wouldn't start at the gas station I thought that the two months sitting in the winter had effectively killed it and I was just now seeing the effects. Perhaps that's a gross misunderstanding of how batteries work but wrong or not, that was the conclusion I drew.
Now I'm not so sure. Reading around the web, 2 years is considered short with decent maintenance, and this is happening after only a year.
I'm also getting the odd / occasional misfire when I blip for downshifts, so I'm thinking my charging system is not working correctly. That's probably more likely on a 98 than a year old battery failing, although the latter isn't impossible.
16 miles each way, 20-25 minutes - is that enough to recharge the battery assuming the charging system is working correctly?
My shop soldered on a replacement R/R that was originally intended for a Hayabusa a few years ago. I mention that since stock Honda R/Rs are so notorious, at least the older ones. Could this one be going bad, or maybe the stator, or another component?
Still having battery issues, would appreciate some input.
I'm currently using the tender daily, but I've had the battery fail to start for me twice in two weeks: Ride to work, ride home, get gas, won't start at the gas station. It's within pushing distance of a hill big enough to roll start so I was able to get it home.
Since the battery was new last year and I was riding daily, I didn't plug it in to the tender except for a weeklong vacation. I let the bike sit for about two months during the rainy season (AKA winter in non-SoCal). I did not use the tender at that time because smokinjoe73's comment above had stuck in my mind. Bike started fine until sometime around June of this year I think. Wouldn't start at work one day, had to push it up the parking structure ramp and roll it. Been using the tender daily after that. First time it wouldn't start at the gas station I thought that the two months sitting in the winter had effectively killed it and I was just now seeing the effects. Perhaps that's a gross misunderstanding of how batteries work but wrong or not, that was the conclusion I drew.
Now I'm not so sure. Reading around the web, 2 years is considered short with decent maintenance, and this is happening after only a year.
I'm also getting the odd / occasional misfire when I blip for downshifts, so I'm thinking my charging system is not working correctly. That's probably more likely on a 98 than a year old battery failing, although the latter isn't impossible.
16 miles each way, 20-25 minutes - is that enough to recharge the battery assuming the charging system is working correctly?
My shop soldered on a replacement R/R that was originally intended for a Hayabusa a few years ago. I mention that since stock Honda R/Rs are so notorious, at least the older ones. Could this one be going bad, or maybe the stator, or another component?
Last edited by Reason; 07-25-2015 at 02:09 PM.
07-07-2015, 04:00 PM
#10
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
I don't have a meter or know how to use one but maybe this would be a good time to change that. I'll start with the posts until I get one.
Thanks, and any additional suggestions and/or data requests are welcome also.
07-08-2015, 11:21 AM
#13
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Nooksack WA
Posts: 834
Clean the posts and the inside of the clamps then use dielectric grease on the clean surfaces. Careful not to touch the hot side of the battery to ground. Hot side is the plus terminal. Are you located in a hot and humid area?
07-08-2015, 08:33 PM
#14
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Nah, SoCal, drought central.
Plugged it in to the Battery Tender tonight and the tender flashes red, indicating it's not charging. Normal process is solid red for charging, flash green for 80% charged, solid green for fully charged. Not sure what's going on there. Fuse is fine. I'll check the battery out more thoroughly tomorrow when I get the DMM.
Plugged it in to the Battery Tender tonight and the tender flashes red, indicating it's not charging. Normal process is solid red for charging, flash green for 80% charged, solid green for fully charged. Not sure what's going on there. Fuse is fine. I'll check the battery out more thoroughly tomorrow when I get the DMM.
07-11-2015, 07:49 PM
#16
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Checked connections, they're all solid, fuse on the tender is good. There's not much to it: wall wart, pigtail connector, fuse, terminals.
Checked the battery with my new DMM today. Showed less than 1V, which according to google means that the tender won't charge it, it has to detect at least 3V.
First I checked it through the tender pigtail terminals. I got a bad reading which I later determined was due to user error with the MM. Before I realized that however, I figured I better eliminate all variables so I removed the battery.
There was some corrosion on the neg terminal which I cleaned off. MM said about 0.9V. I reinstalled the battery and it read about 0.7V, and later (15-20 min) it was lower.
So from looking up these results I think that at the very best, this battery will have a much shorter life than normal, even if I can get it to charge somehow.
I'm pretty sure this is my third battery in a fairly short period - probably 5 years. Assuming I'll be on my fourth shortly, what can I check to make sure it doesn't get toasted also?
Is that decreasing voltage possibly an error, either mine or the DMM? I tested some freshly charged AAAs and they all read at 1.4XX volts; they are the same (cheap Chinese) brand and have 1.2V printed on them. I'm not sure if that's bad calibration on the DMM, or the batteries.
Edit to clarify what I'm asking: what can a noob with a DMM measure that might help diagnose poor battery charging?
Checked the battery with my new DMM today. Showed less than 1V, which according to google means that the tender won't charge it, it has to detect at least 3V.
First I checked it through the tender pigtail terminals. I got a bad reading which I later determined was due to user error with the MM. Before I realized that however, I figured I better eliminate all variables so I removed the battery.
There was some corrosion on the neg terminal which I cleaned off. MM said about 0.9V. I reinstalled the battery and it read about 0.7V, and later (15-20 min) it was lower.
So from looking up these results I think that at the very best, this battery will have a much shorter life than normal, even if I can get it to charge somehow.
I'm pretty sure this is my third battery in a fairly short period - probably 5 years. Assuming I'll be on my fourth shortly, what can I check to make sure it doesn't get toasted also?
Is that decreasing voltage possibly an error, either mine or the DMM? I tested some freshly charged AAAs and they all read at 1.4XX volts; they are the same (cheap Chinese) brand and have 1.2V printed on them. I'm not sure if that's bad calibration on the DMM, or the batteries.
Edit to clarify what I'm asking: what can a noob with a DMM measure that might help diagnose poor battery charging?
Last edited by Reason; 07-11-2015 at 08:20 PM.
07-12-2015, 08:14 AM
#17
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Nooksack WA
Posts: 834
Pull the battery and charge it for a few hours then check VDC. Let it sit for a few hours and recheck. If the drop is more than a fraction of a volt, the battery is probably dying. In any event charge at a low rate and recheck in the a.m. I'd review riding habits and storage for clues. More time between rides means more cranking while the carbs fill after sitting. I'm on my second in sixteen years and yes l am expecting a failure soon.
07-12-2015, 08:33 PM
#18
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Currently charging. The smart-charging feature of the BTJr is documented as not charging below a battery voltage of 3V but it was creeping up all day, and now the light is solid red, and MM shows 3.6. I'll let it charge overnight and let it sit while I'm at work, unless that's too long? How much should the drop be for a good battery over 8 hours? I'd assume still not very much.
Riding habits:
Monday-Friday
Start the motor. If it doesn't stay lit right away, I'll turn the key to Off and give it a few seconds. It's rare to need to start it three times, but twice in the mornings is common.
Once started I let it warm up while I put in earplugs, helmet, gloves, maybe a minute or two if I drop something.
Average 25 minute ride to work, split more or less evenly between service streets and freeway. I don't know what RPMs as I have no tach (no gauges installed, speedo is smartphone GPS app).
Sits in the parking garage for 8.5 hours.
Same starting procedure as in the morning, although it's much less common to need to start it twice.
Ride home also averages 25 minutes, route is not significantly different in terms of RPMs.
Park in the garage, let it sit while I take off my gear and greet the dogs.
At some point later in the evening I'll turn it around and connect the BTJr.
Stays in garage overnight, lather rinse repeat.
Saturday and Sunday I don't really ride anymore. Rarely I'll run an errand on it if whatever I'm doing can fit in a backpack.
It hasn't always been garaged by me, just the last 2.5 years or so. I bought it in 2008 so I can't speak to its sheltered-ness / humidity exposure prior to that.
None of that sounds bad to me. Maybe the rides are too short?
Riding habits:
Monday-Friday
Start the motor. If it doesn't stay lit right away, I'll turn the key to Off and give it a few seconds. It's rare to need to start it three times, but twice in the mornings is common.
Once started I let it warm up while I put in earplugs, helmet, gloves, maybe a minute or two if I drop something.
Average 25 minute ride to work, split more or less evenly between service streets and freeway. I don't know what RPMs as I have no tach (no gauges installed, speedo is smartphone GPS app).
Sits in the parking garage for 8.5 hours.
Same starting procedure as in the morning, although it's much less common to need to start it twice.
Ride home also averages 25 minutes, route is not significantly different in terms of RPMs.
Park in the garage, let it sit while I take off my gear and greet the dogs.
At some point later in the evening I'll turn it around and connect the BTJr.
Stays in garage overnight, lather rinse repeat.
Saturday and Sunday I don't really ride anymore. Rarely I'll run an errand on it if whatever I'm doing can fit in a backpack.
It hasn't always been garaged by me, just the last 2.5 years or so. I bought it in 2008 so I can't speak to its sheltered-ness / humidity exposure prior to that.
None of that sounds bad to me. Maybe the rides are too short?
07-13-2015, 08:35 PM
#19
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Charged the battery for more than 24 hours.
Disconnected at 6:22 PM, 7.55V
Measured again at 8:02 PM, 6.99V
So all day to charge half way followed by roughly half a volt drop over about 100 minutes. I think it's safe to say this battery is done.
I like the idea of the Shorais, but given that the currently installed R/R is a Hayabusa model picked out by my shop, I don't know that that's actually better.
Given the following: need a new battery, I believe there is an unknown issue with the charging system, and I don't want to spend a grand replacing all the electrical components, what's some good options?
Edit: found my receipt, 3 year replacement, 8 year prorated. 1.5 years in, I should be able to get a replacement tomorrow. This is why I'm a hoarder.
Once the battery is replaced, what should I check on the charging system? Or are my riding habits, as above, the problem?
Disconnected at 6:22 PM, 7.55V
Measured again at 8:02 PM, 6.99V
So all day to charge half way followed by roughly half a volt drop over about 100 minutes. I think it's safe to say this battery is done.
I like the idea of the Shorais, but given that the currently installed R/R is a Hayabusa model picked out by my shop, I don't know that that's actually better.
Given the following: need a new battery, I believe there is an unknown issue with the charging system, and I don't want to spend a grand replacing all the electrical components, what's some good options?
Edit: found my receipt, 3 year replacement, 8 year prorated. 1.5 years in, I should be able to get a replacement tomorrow. This is why I'm a hoarder.
Once the battery is replaced, what should I check on the charging system? Or are my riding habits, as above, the problem?
Last edited by Reason; 07-13-2015 at 10:01 PM.
07-14-2015, 02:29 PM
#20
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,478
I agree your battery is done. I think your riding habits are not the problem if your bike remains on tender at your home and the tender is working correctly.
07-14-2015, 07:57 PM
#21
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Thanks.
Unfortunately when I looked at the receipt, all I saw was "3 year replacement" and "battery" and failed to realize this receipt is actually for the battery for my wife's car. Luckily there were only three employees in the store to see me make this error. It also poses some major obstacles in that even if I do manage to quiet her objections (it's a stick, she can roll start it), I don't have a bungie cord strong enough to hold the battery on to the pilion seat.
In all seriousness, I am thinking I might just diagnose with my wallet and buy a Shorai and a mosfet R/R.
First, apparently my memory is faulty and it's not a hayabusa R/R, according to the shop records. Second, googling "hayabusa regulator mosfet" returns results for upgrade paths to mosfet, heavily implying stock busa R/R is thyristor.
Shop records are from 2010 and show model 10106; googling 10106 honda regulator returns results for "OEM style" and says nothing about mosfet. So, hey, it's about 5 years old, it's been through at least two batteries, it fits.
So here's my thinking:
IF
1. I have to buy a new battery - can't test anything else without one.
CONSIDER
2a. A cheap battery seems more likely to introduce new/additional problems to the troubleshooting path.
2b. An expensive battery is not immune to issues but is more likely to include good service in the event it does have issues and needs replacement.
THEN
3. Spend now and save later.
On the other hand, $40 from Amazon sure sounds good, and I could just include the new battery in my testing.
One more wrinkle: no gauges means no tach. Is it loose enough that I might be able to do it by ear, or if the manual says 3000 RPM, 2850 is insufficient?
Unfortunately when I looked at the receipt, all I saw was "3 year replacement" and "battery" and failed to realize this receipt is actually for the battery for my wife's car. Luckily there were only three employees in the store to see me make this error. It also poses some major obstacles in that even if I do manage to quiet her objections (it's a stick, she can roll start it), I don't have a bungie cord strong enough to hold the battery on to the pilion seat.
In all seriousness, I am thinking I might just diagnose with my wallet and buy a Shorai and a mosfet R/R.
First, apparently my memory is faulty and it's not a hayabusa R/R, according to the shop records. Second, googling "hayabusa regulator mosfet" returns results for upgrade paths to mosfet, heavily implying stock busa R/R is thyristor.
Shop records are from 2010 and show model 10106; googling 10106 honda regulator returns results for "OEM style" and says nothing about mosfet. So, hey, it's about 5 years old, it's been through at least two batteries, it fits.
So here's my thinking:
IF
1. I have to buy a new battery - can't test anything else without one.
CONSIDER
2a. A cheap battery seems more likely to introduce new/additional problems to the troubleshooting path.
2b. An expensive battery is not immune to issues but is more likely to include good service in the event it does have issues and needs replacement.
THEN
3. Spend now and save later.
On the other hand, $40 from Amazon sure sounds good, and I could just include the new battery in my testing.
One more wrinkle: no gauges means no tach. Is it loose enough that I might be able to do it by ear, or if the manual says 3000 RPM, 2850 is insufficient?
07-15-2015, 02:51 AM
#22
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,478
Bummer about the battery replacement deal.
I missed the part about no tach.
But you could still check to see voltage produced at battery terminals meets minimum spec and does not exceed maximum spec thru whatever rev range you ride the bike at.
If it were mine, I too would probably replace the R/R now if it can't be proven to be a MOSFET type.
I missed the part about no tach.
But you could still check to see voltage produced at battery terminals meets minimum spec and does not exceed maximum spec thru whatever rev range you ride the bike at.
If it were mine, I too would probably replace the R/R now if it can't be proven to be a MOSFET type.
07-15-2015, 11:12 AM
#23
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Well, I ended up going cheap on the battery and ordered this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00
I'm also going to get the Super Mosfet Kit from roadstercycle.com.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00
I'm also going to get the Super Mosfet Kit from roadstercycle.com.
07-25-2015, 02:51 PM
#24
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Got the regulator on Monday and the battery on Wednesday and got them installed today.
The battery has a built in LCD display that shows voltage and days since the button was first pushed, so it works as a date record.
Voltage on the LCD showed 12.87, and my multimeter showed 12.82. I wouldn't think .05 difference should matter. After installing the battery, the LCD is not usably visible, the viewing angle is too far off to see what it says unless I tilt the battery, so all voltage measurements noted going forward are from the MM.
Watched the videos on roadstercycle for installing the kit. Pretty happy with what I got from there. I opted for the super kit where he does pretty much everything he can aside from actually install it and was happy I did. I probably could have assembled everything on the cheaper kit but getting it preassembled was WELL worth the extra $20 to me. Someone who is more electrically oriented would probably disagree.
One stator connection inside my connector was / is clearly burnt. The connector has not been reused. The wire that had been connected to that connector, when I stripped it, has more of a silvery color than the other two which are a nice copper color - does that mean this wire could be bad?
At any rate, I routed the wiring and connected everything up and started it. As previously mentioned I don't have a tach so I just watched the voltage as I first idled and then increased RPMs. I revved it up at about the same rate you'd leave an intersection with a cop watching - reasonable but more slowly than just grabbing a handful.
At first it seemed to vary a bit, both at idle and when revved up. Especially at higher revs it would drop down to as low as 11.8 briefly although more commonly in the 12V range. The MM seems to update about twice per second; I'd see the lower voltage and then it would go up higher, highest I recall was 14.8 I think.
I say I think because I let it sit for a few minutes and then started it up again. This time it idles pretty consistently at 14.2 - maybe varies from 14.15 to 14.22. It also seemed to stay pretty consistent as I revved it up, which this time was more slowly than before because I thought that might help prevent any spikes. It didn't cross 14.5.
So I have some questions:
1. Could that wire be a problem? (the one I mention above as not being copper colored.)
2a. The ring connector that attaches to the mounting bolt - does it have to be connected to anything?
2b. If so, are my tests meaningless or dangerous since I don't currently have it connected?
- Based on this post, it's not strictly necessary, but it is a good idea:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ocation-29942/
The battery has a built in LCD display that shows voltage and days since the button was first pushed, so it works as a date record.
Voltage on the LCD showed 12.87, and my multimeter showed 12.82. I wouldn't think .05 difference should matter. After installing the battery, the LCD is not usably visible, the viewing angle is too far off to see what it says unless I tilt the battery, so all voltage measurements noted going forward are from the MM.
Watched the videos on roadstercycle for installing the kit. Pretty happy with what I got from there. I opted for the super kit where he does pretty much everything he can aside from actually install it and was happy I did. I probably could have assembled everything on the cheaper kit but getting it preassembled was WELL worth the extra $20 to me. Someone who is more electrically oriented would probably disagree.
One stator connection inside my connector was / is clearly burnt. The connector has not been reused. The wire that had been connected to that connector, when I stripped it, has more of a silvery color than the other two which are a nice copper color - does that mean this wire could be bad?
At any rate, I routed the wiring and connected everything up and started it. As previously mentioned I don't have a tach so I just watched the voltage as I first idled and then increased RPMs. I revved it up at about the same rate you'd leave an intersection with a cop watching - reasonable but more slowly than just grabbing a handful.
At first it seemed to vary a bit, both at idle and when revved up. Especially at higher revs it would drop down to as low as 11.8 briefly although more commonly in the 12V range. The MM seems to update about twice per second; I'd see the lower voltage and then it would go up higher, highest I recall was 14.8 I think.
I say I think because I let it sit for a few minutes and then started it up again. This time it idles pretty consistently at 14.2 - maybe varies from 14.15 to 14.22. It also seemed to stay pretty consistent as I revved it up, which this time was more slowly than before because I thought that might help prevent any spikes. It didn't cross 14.5.
So I have some questions:
1. Could that wire be a problem? (the one I mention above as not being copper colored.)
2a. The ring connector that attaches to the mounting bolt - does it have to be connected to anything?
2b. If so, are my tests meaningless or dangerous since I don't currently have it connected?
- Based on this post, it's not strictly necessary, but it is a good idea:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ocation-29942/
07-26-2015, 03:14 PM
#25
Greenmeansgo!
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 199
Well, got everything buttoned back up.
Attached the old R/R ring terminal ground to what I think is the coil mount. Its attached to the right side of the frame with a little leg that rests on top of the frame. Where the bold holds that on is a raised ring; I filed that ring smooth and put the ring terminal between the frame and the coil mount.
Voltages are all still good. I'm a bit worried that I did something wrong that looks minor but isn't, but I don't know of another way to test before the real test.
Attached the old R/R ring terminal ground to what I think is the coil mount. Its attached to the right side of the frame with a little leg that rests on top of the frame. Where the bold holds that on is a raised ring; I filed that ring smooth and put the ring terminal between the frame and the coil mount.
Voltages are all still good. I'm a bit worried that I did something wrong that looks minor but isn't, but I don't know of another way to test before the real test.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
20_rc51_00
Modifications - Performance
7
08-29-2014 09:34 PM
