Li battery tender necessary? 12mo charge loss?
08-27-2014, 01:35 PM
#1
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Li battery tender necessary? 12mo charge loss?
So I'm wondering since the Li batteries are full of magic do they need as much battery tending during storage as AGM batteries? I ask because I may need to store my bike for 12 mo at a time without access to an outlet in a storage locker. If I was to disconnect the Li battery and let it sit for 12mo would there be any appreciable loss in charge?
Just trying to figure out what I can get away with in a less than ideal situation.
Thanks
Just trying to figure out what I can get away with in a less than ideal situation.
Thanks
08-27-2014, 06:23 PM
#3
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If it's a LiFePo4 battery, then no tender is required (actually standard tenders are bad for them). Unplug it after a ride and leave it in a cool, dry place. They have ridiculous shelf life compared to lead-acid. I've never tried for a whole year, but standard documentation says that they can do it.
08-28-2014, 06:32 PM
#4
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I have an RC race shop and we use LiPo and LiFe batteries exclusively for our cars. Though they are smaller they are still basically the same thing. I have one thats been sitting on the shelf for forever and it still has a good charge. As has been said, just leave it unplugged to be sure there is nothing draining the battery.
As a side note its also best that the battery not be "fully" charged if you are leaving it for a long period of time. Lithium batteries prefer to be stored at their nominal voltage rather than full. But this is also from a race standpoint for running electric motors and every little Mah in the battery is important. You're not going to notice what little you may lose storing it at a full charge vs nominal charge just cranking a starter to start a bike
if you do have a local friend that races electric R/C cars see if they will let you drop off the battery to put it on a storage charge for you (charges/discharges the battery to a save storage voltage to sit for long periods of time)
As a side note its also best that the battery not be "fully" charged if you are leaving it for a long period of time. Lithium batteries prefer to be stored at their nominal voltage rather than full. But this is also from a race standpoint for running electric motors and every little Mah in the battery is important. You're not going to notice what little you may lose storing it at a full charge vs nominal charge just cranking a starter to start a bike
if you do have a local friend that races electric R/C cars see if they will let you drop off the battery to put it on a storage charge for you (charges/discharges the battery to a save storage voltage to sit for long periods of time)
08-29-2014, 09:36 AM
#5
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aa another R/C enthousiast
check Radio Control Planes, Helicopters, Cars, Boats, FPV and Quadcopters - Hobbyking
for those A123 Lifepo4 cells there awesome for our v twins
they have enough burst amperage to turn those 2 big pistons over
anything weaker wont start it,
as for I4s you can get away with less burst amp and go for some zippy type Lifepo4s
check Radio Control Planes, Helicopters, Cars, Boats, FPV and Quadcopters - Hobbyking
for those A123 Lifepo4 cells there awesome for our v twins
they have enough burst amperage to turn those 2 big pistons over
anything weaker wont start it,
as for I4s you can get away with less burst amp and go for some zippy type Lifepo4s
08-29-2014, 08:35 PM
#7
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THanks for the input guys. From what I have read as well, it's best to leave a battery at about 50% if storing since the natural discharge rate will be less at this amount and also the battery will not suffer ill effects from storage( supposedly the battery may not charge up to it's potential if one leaves it for storage and does so at full charge...)
08-29-2014, 09:34 PM
#8
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aa another R/C enthousiast
check Radio Control Planes, Helicopters, Cars, Boats, FPV and Quadcopters - Hobbyking*
for those A123 Lifepo4 cells there awesome for our v twins
they have enough burst amperage to turn those 2 big pistons over
anything weaker wont start it,
as for I4s you can get away with less burst amp and go for some zippy type Lifepo4s
check Radio Control Planes, Helicopters, Cars, Boats, FPV and Quadcopters - Hobbyking*
for those A123 Lifepo4 cells there awesome for our v twins
they have enough burst amperage to turn those 2 big pistons over
anything weaker wont start it,
as for I4s you can get away with less burst amp and go for some zippy type Lifepo4s
My concerns would be the detrimental effects of the bikes charging system on the balance of cells. I can't imagine the charging from the bike being any good for the pack....
Also I have read too many stories of the shorai batts crapping out prematurely. I'm assuming that being a prof made pack that there is still some hickups with the technology?
edit, rereading a bunch of the posts that discussed all my uncertainties above changed my mind, battery DIY here I come lol
Last edited by 20_rc51_00; 08-29-2014 at 10:33 PM.
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