It doesn't seem to do it at idle, which is around 1000 rpms...but if I raise the idle slightly, right at about 1200 rpms, I can hear a LOUD "clack clack clack" noise...sounds like it's coming from the forward valve cover or somewhere thereabouts. It speeds up with rpms, but at around 1500 the sound seems to disappear?

Does this sound like the dreaded CCT failure? It's been making the noise for around a week now, but seems to have worsened slightly over the past few days....either that or my hearing has gotten better?

The bike is a 98 and only has around 12,000 miles. It has been apart before by the previous owner, but I don't know whether he so much as even adjusted the valves (highly doubt it though, the bastard didnt even change the oil.)

 

Since it looks like another discussion about cam chain tensioners might start here I'd like to ask a question of the old pros.

In search of torque I sold a really nice 91 CBR600 and bought a 98' VTR1000 with 22k miles on it and it runs great. Torque is good, must have more!

There is no record of the bike having previous CCT work done or if they were replaced. It looks like the stock ones have never been removed.

I've read through all the posts I could find here regrading the CCT's and replacing them, some advocate precautionary replacement about my mileage, but I think others have significantly more miles than mine with no problems.

It sounds like A.P.E. manual tensioners are a good possible replacement with performance advantages, but added adjustment and o-ring replacement to be leakproof in the long term are disadvantages.

So what is the current thinking on these things? I don't mind spending the time and $$ to do the work if its a good idea, I currently have a 95 VFR, 96 XR-600 D/S, 99 CR250 and various small honda kids bikes so you can see I enjoy working on Hondas.

I guess it comes down to risk analysis really, but I'd like to hear the latest opinions before making a decision on the matter.

Thanks in advance if anyone has time to type some more on this subject!

 

I wouldn't exactly call adjustability a disadvantage. It truly takes 5 minutes tops to adjust them both. The o-ring thing is a problem though.

 

What is the procedure for adjusting the APE CCT's?

I remember the old honda single dirt bikes with manual adjust were done while the engine was idling. You just backed it off a bit until you heard a little cam chain noise then screwed it back in until it was quiet again. Could they be that simple?

 

Yup, it's that simple. APE might have an "official" procedure but I don't know what it is. I adjusted mine a little tighter. I figured slightly looser than stock would be fine - lightly finger tight while the bike is idling. That's tight enough to allow for some stretching and looser than stock to minimize friction on the tensioner slider.

 

Back to your post. Your "LOUD" indicates it must be a pretty loud noise. I'm guess the oil level is fine and fresh. A stethoscope can help localize it for sure the head but I would suggest really getting it check out early. If you are comfortable and have a service manual you could use the opportunity to be sure all maintenance is done: change radiator fluid, check valves and when in there you can check the cam chain tensioners to be sure they are OK (or consider the after market APE adjuster as noted above if not). It would at least be piece of mind and could save big dollars. Worst case you have your maintenance done if the PO really was neglectful.

bill

 

Thanks for the answer about the APE tensioners, I think I will get a couple, and try to source a supply of replacement o-rings to put in my toolbox. I hate oil leaks.

I would also assume you want to adjust them with the engine fully up to operating temperature. With the different coefficients of expansion between the aluminum engine and the steel chain I could see the chain getting tighter if it was adjusted when the engine case was cold.