Charging Issue
10-04-2010, 12:05 PM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Your mom's house
Posts: 3
Charging Issue
Ok guys Im helping Mattaua out on his electrical issue which has left him stranded 2 times.
After the first time Mattaua replaced the R/R as instructed by you guys as its the usuall culprit. He replaced both the battery and R/R.
Takes it out for a ride and gets stranded about 20 minutes into the ride and then brings it to me.
I fully charged the battery using my fancy battery charger and it holds 12.78 volts.
I check the stator which has a ohm reading or .6 between all legs with no continuity to ground. At idle with no load the stator produces 20 volts equally between all legs. At 5000 rpm the staor produces about 80 volts equally between all legs. Based on this I prove the Stator is still function properly with no issues.
I then check wiring between the 3 pin connector and the R/R which shows no signs of abrasions or cuts and no grounding.
I then checked the R/R using the http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ng-diagram.pdf instructions and it shows that the new R/R is good and the old one was bad. BUT!!! I get the OL on my meter and not the 1.5v as I read on another site and the chart in my GSXR manual which actually has a test for the R/R.
When the bike idles im getting 12.3 without the stator connected and 12.4 witht the stator connected. At 5000rpms im getting 12.7 volts which is far less then the 14.4 which is highly desired.
I dont know if its unrelated or not but I noticed that when I disconnect the negative cable from the battery its still pulling 10.5 volts with the odometer fuse in. If I pull it it goes to 0.
Im leaning toward the R/R being faulty even though it seems new and tests ok. But why would they say OL and 1.5 v be acceptable, I would think it would be one or the other.
I have searched on this topic and havent come up with a clear answer.
The readings are in the .435-.450v range of the red,or green to the 3 inputs of the R/R. and the books say "about 0.5v" so im thinking they are within spec.
After the first time Mattaua replaced the R/R as instructed by you guys as its the usuall culprit. He replaced both the battery and R/R.
Takes it out for a ride and gets stranded about 20 minutes into the ride and then brings it to me.
I fully charged the battery using my fancy battery charger and it holds 12.78 volts.
I check the stator which has a ohm reading or .6 between all legs with no continuity to ground. At idle with no load the stator produces 20 volts equally between all legs. At 5000 rpm the staor produces about 80 volts equally between all legs. Based on this I prove the Stator is still function properly with no issues.
I then check wiring between the 3 pin connector and the R/R which shows no signs of abrasions or cuts and no grounding.
I then checked the R/R using the http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ng-diagram.pdf instructions and it shows that the new R/R is good and the old one was bad. BUT!!! I get the OL on my meter and not the 1.5v as I read on another site and the chart in my GSXR manual which actually has a test for the R/R.
When the bike idles im getting 12.3 without the stator connected and 12.4 witht the stator connected. At 5000rpms im getting 12.7 volts which is far less then the 14.4 which is highly desired.
I dont know if its unrelated or not but I noticed that when I disconnect the negative cable from the battery its still pulling 10.5 volts with the odometer fuse in. If I pull it it goes to 0.
Im leaning toward the R/R being faulty even though it seems new and tests ok. But why would they say OL and 1.5 v be acceptable, I would think it would be one or the other.
I have searched on this topic and havent come up with a clear answer.
The readings are in the .435-.450v range of the red,or green to the 3 inputs of the R/R. and the books say "about 0.5v" so im thinking they are within spec.
Last edited by gsxr_rcr; 10-04-2010 at 12:08 PM.
10-04-2010, 01:02 PM
#4
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Your mom's house
Posts: 3
Ill triple check the grounds. I not really that familitar with the superchicken, i know the ground at the r/r and the battery, are there any others i should know about.
I used an extra gsxr R/R I had laying around. At idle its putting out 13.9v but when I rev to 5k the voltage drops to 13 then slowly goes down. This gsxr r/r is known good. At the output pins its reading 14.52 at idle but after the pins it drops to 13.9.
I used an extra gsxr R/R I had laying around. At idle its putting out 13.9v but when I rev to 5k the voltage drops to 13 then slowly goes down. This gsxr r/r is known good. At the output pins its reading 14.52 at idle but after the pins it drops to 13.9.
10-04-2010, 01:07 PM
#5
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
That's low-ish but OK... How low does it drop to at revs?
There are six main groundpoints and a few other smaller one's... Here is a good schematic... http://www.tweety.se/download.php?fi..._Superhawk.jpg
There are six main groundpoints and a few other smaller one's... Here is a good schematic... http://www.tweety.se/download.php?fi..._Superhawk.jpg
10-04-2010, 01:26 PM
#7
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
That's marginal... Won't work longterm... But I highly doubt it's a problem with the R/R per see... Just mismatched voltage/diode bridges... My guess even if you find marginal problems on grounding you won't solve it with that R/R, you'll need a better match to the bike... My suggestion a R1 R/R...
10-05-2010, 10:58 AM
#9
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Kakalaki
Posts: 313
sending back the r/r I purchased on ebay. believe it or not they have a 30 day refund policy and 1 year replacement/exchange. I purchased a new "Rick's" R1 r/r, gonna give that a shot on the advice of a few other members.
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