Hey guys I got some new oem cct's ordered up, I was wondering if its possible to pop them in without removing the valve covers since I wont have to measure cam chain slack. Or will I need to take it all apart reguardless of automatic or manual tensioners?

 

All questions have been answered here. Just do a search and don't freak out.....its not that complicated. Do NOT screw it up.

 

You will still need to remove one valve cover (by far the easiest is the rear) to determine whether or not you are on compression stroke at TDC. But you don't need to remove the front cover, fairings, etc.

The "how to" thread covers the process very well, just skip the adjusting steps.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...pe-ccts-11275/

 

Double post

 

Why would I need it to be tdc if my timing should be perfect? If I have it on a motorcycle lift in neutral shouldnt I just be able to change em provided the cam chain doesnt move? (Which it shouldnt) just curious.

 

If you do not have it at TDC for the cylinder your changing the CCT on, there is a possibility the cam lobe will be pushing down on the valve... as you remove the CCT, the cam will spin over, causing a jump in timing..
You can install the CCTs any way you want.. It is after all your bike.... and we are just a bunch of unknowns on the internet..

The procedure suggested in the Tech forum is one that allows a consistent , easy, safe install.. which when followed works every time.. The choice is yours.

 

+1. all you need to do is take the valve cover off to see the cam lobes and make sure they are in the right spot. that way you know there isnt tension on the cam chain when you take the cct out.

i wouldnt try to take it out unless u open the valve cover

 

I didn't remove my cam cover. I found a how-to that explained how to do it the easy way.


I don't remember who originally posted this, but this is what I did and it worked great:




This is a short cut to the normal process of removing the valve covers to check the timig marks, and ensure the cylinder is on TDC on the compression stroke.

Do all the usual stuff such as removing inspection plugs, and spark plugs. Then instead of taking the valve covers off do the following:

Squat down in front of the bike with the front wheel in front of your chest. You will see the front cylinder in front of you. As you face the bike observe the bottom left valve cover retaining bolt. (This is on the right hand side of the bike, and on the opposite side of the head to the cam gears.) Remove this bolt. Shine a small torch in through the hole. You will see the base circle of the camshaft.

Turn your engine in a counter clockwise direction until the FT timing marks line up for the front cylinder. This is as per normal. Now go back to your bolt hole and have a look. If the cam lobe is visible and pointing towards the front wheel, it is now TDC on compression. If you can only see the base circle of the cam rotate the engine until the timing mark is visible again, then re-check. It should then be correct. You can now change the CCT.

For the rear cylinder rotate the engine counter clockwise again 270 degrees until the RT timing mark lines up. As you have already identified the correct engine rotation on the front cylinder there is no need to do it again. Change the rear CCT.






James

 

I'll be using the method you shared above, removing the rear valve cover to ensure im on the compression stroke before removing any ccts. One last question, will I need new valve cover gaskets after removing it?

 

Usually no need to replace Valve cover gaskets. They are soft pliable rubber and good for many removals and re-installations. But it's possible they can harden and be less effective.

 

It all comes down to, Is an hour of your time worth more or less than an engine rebuild?

I ask this as I can R&R the front cover in under an hour, no worries.

When you decide how to do this job, just remember there are risks involved in changing a CCT without being able to see the cams and chain.

It is very easy to get the chain to skip a tooth while removing the old CCT.
If it skips one, it will run but be a touch down on power, If it happens to skip 2 teeth..... well kiss the head good-bye.

It all comes down to what you are comfortable with.
Lots have done it the 1 valve cover way with good results.
There have also been many who have caused major damage by not doing the job correctly.

While this is a fairly easy job, the consequences of not doing the job correctly is hard parts hitting each other.

That is why on each and every bike I have changed CCTs on (and I could give a number but I would need to pull my records, so let just say it has been a few), I have removed both covers.

Not only does this give visual conformation the job is correct.
It also lets you check the valve clearances and also change out the coolant while you are in there....you do service your cooling system, don't you?

 

Of course I would service the cooling system I guess if im going to have to remove the plastics, tank, and carbs I may as well pull both valve covers. Im just going to do it the right way. It seems like it can all be done in one day anyway. Thanks for all the help guys, ill write a follow up post when its done. Btw valve clearence was checked about 1.5k , miles ago at a honda service shop (former owners decision) and needed no adjustment. Why they didnt replace ccts beats me but ill be the one that gets it done because it will give me peace. Besides I know I can hear slap already at idle- about 3500 rpm it does have 28k miles. So happy they didnt let go already.

 

That above will keep you doing this


Vs this

On your way to the local shop

 

+2

been there.. lol

 

Not to beat a dead horse or be an ***, but it has been covered before a time or two. Because of how serious the result is, it deserves repeating. The sound that you hear is unlikely cam chain slap due to a failing CCT. The wisdom here is the CCT is good right up to the point that it's not. That point is unknown to all but the Moto Gods.
Regular scheduled replacement of the stock CCTs seems to work for some. I wish that I could trust that method as having an auto tensioner that was design by Mr Honda seems to be the best in my mind. I'm just not willing to take the risk so MCCT is the way I went.

 

I went with auto ccts again because my first ones are actually still "good" at 28k miles I dont think ill put 28k on this bike in the next 10 years. Especially because its not the only bike I ride. I dont feel like adjusting manual ccts nor do I trust myself to set them. I do hear the noise in the low range as cam chain slapping probably because the spring in the tensioners are getting weak. I could be wrong but the whole bike was went through at 27k miles including valve adjustment compression test rebuilt forks brakes done coolant flushed and replaced brake fluid changed etc, cost the PO around $1800 and I have the slips to show it. The sound has to be the cam chain or im paranoid from reading too much on this forum. Thanks for the input though I appreciate it. Btw the new ccts are going in friday (as preventative matinence) ill let you all know how it goes.

 

Interesting thread from a new VTR owner (for 48 hours) after a Honda dealer installed OEM CCTS and 800 miles later they imploded….

www.vtr1000.org • View topic - dreaded cct after 48hr ownership :-(

 

thats why the manual CCT's are so popular. as Wicky stated above, its so hit or miss as to when they go if they do. theres been members that have used the autos for over 100,000 miles (replacing about every 30,000) and have had no issues.

other owners have had them go at 10,000 or 5,000 or even 800 miles. so its sorta rolling the dice. although there are a few things you can do to help keep them in shape.

just dont let the bike idle on the side stand while its warming up or anything. when its leaning on the side stand, the front CCT especially gets starved for oil and can go at any time.

also dont slam the throttle shut when your high in the revs, say 9 or 10k rpm.


the thing with manual CCT's is its just a bit of piece of mind, knowing you engine isnt going to grenade itself randomly.

 

Honestly my peace of mind will be there when I change the oem ccts to the new ones (new part number) if it still grenades one day with the re designed ccts ill go from there.. and its an excuse to make the superchicken faster (: and honestly I got better things to do than worry about what COULD happen im just gonna enjoy the bike.

 

Well I just got done installing the new ccts, it really wasnt that bad. Had the valve covers off just to be safe and I can say it was worth the extra time. The ccts I installed were new oem ccts with the orange dot. Changed the oil to synthetic amsoil 20w50 while I was into it. have some pics but I dont know how to put them on here off my phone. Thanks again for all the help!

 

How are orange dotted CCTs different from white & pink dotted ones?

 

They have a new part number so maybe they are re designed? Either way oem ccts are pretty reliable my stock ones lasted 28k miles before I changed them just as preventative matinence. Honestly by looking at the oem tensioner I think its a well designed unit.. just a few people were unlucky with their bike and had them fail causing thousands of superhawk owners to blow the cct thing out of proportion and say they are guarenteed to fail and that they are terrible. Either way I got new ones in and over all the whole project went well. Im very satisfied and im sure my wonderful hawk is as well.

 

That's what I thought too, until mine went at ~34k miles... Now I have mccts. I adjusted them once, and will never look at them again.


It's not blown out of proportion, it's fact.




Start reading at post #20
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...939/?styleid=1


And this one
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...de-road-31108/







James

 

New ones will be fine, and if you treat them well and replace again at 28k miles you should have plenty of peace of mind that your motor is safe and sound.

But blown out of proportion they are not... when you consider the proportion of cost vs the proportion of damage a broken one "can" (not will, but can) cause. In your case, the cost is nil b/c you put OEM's on anyway. Zero cost to prevent possible (let's say 1% chance) major valve and head damage. That's 0:0.01, which is infinity, which is a pretty good proportion.

 

Actually it cost him about $130 or so, when a manual conversion costs less than $20.


James