Carb Install
05-12-2009, 06:36 AM
#1
The Hypno-Toad
Superstock
Superstock
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 467
Carb Install
Well after much time I am nearing finish my rebuild after my CCT failure and subsequent destruction. One problem I am having is getting the carbs back into the boots. Is there a trick to this. Everything else is hooked up and yeah those enricher valve nuts are a bitch to get back in.
Other concerns. I finally gave up and put my front valve cover back on. Everything appears to be half a tooth off. I chalk this up as chain streched associated with the CCT fail. Has anyone had problems with this small of a difference. I hope not because it's a bitch to get the from cover on with the honda bond goop on it.
Second. I can't really be positive my CCT's are adjusted right until I start the biike. Fron the look of it if I need to adjust the from APE the left radiator will have to come back of. Would it be okay to start up the bike with out any coolant for a short period of time so I can check it out.
With any luck i can be back on the road after two more afternoons in the garage, and riding for the first time since September.
any help is appreciated.
Kendrick
Other concerns. I finally gave up and put my front valve cover back on. Everything appears to be half a tooth off. I chalk this up as chain streched associated with the CCT fail. Has anyone had problems with this small of a difference. I hope not because it's a bitch to get the from cover on with the honda bond goop on it.
Second. I can't really be positive my CCT's are adjusted right until I start the biike. Fron the look of it if I need to adjust the from APE the left radiator will have to come back of. Would it be okay to start up the bike with out any coolant for a short period of time so I can check it out.
With any luck i can be back on the road after two more afternoons in the garage, and riding for the first time since September.
any help is appreciated.
Kendrick
05-12-2009, 06:53 AM
#2
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,051
#1) carbs, just rock them side to side a little bit while pushing down. i set them into the front boot first them push down to seat them into the rear boot.
#2) on a motor with miles on it the cam marks will not be 'perfect'.
#3) the front CCT is a bear to adjust. i didn't remove anything coolent related ... i'd run the bike without the airbox ( gives more room to get to the CCT ) before i'd run it without water.
tim
#2) on a motor with miles on it the cam marks will not be 'perfect'.
#3) the front CCT is a bear to adjust. i didn't remove anything coolent related ... i'd run the bike without the airbox ( gives more room to get to the CCT ) before i'd run it without water.
tim
05-12-2009, 06:58 AM
#3
The Hypno-Toad
Superstock
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 467
#1) carbs, just rock them side to side a little bit while pushing down. i set them into the front boot first them push down to seat them into the rear boot.
#2) on a motor with miles on it the cam marks will not be 'perfect'.
#3) the front CCT is a bear to adjust. i didn't remove anything coolent related ... i'd run the bike without the airbox ( gives more room to get to the CCT ) before i'd run it without water.
tim
#2) on a motor with miles on it the cam marks will not be 'perfect'.
#3) the front CCT is a bear to adjust. i didn't remove anything coolent related ... i'd run the bike without the airbox ( gives more room to get to the CCT ) before i'd run it without water.
tim
#2) Thanks, I'll try to stop worrying about it.
#3) Did you use a remote fuel supply or just prop up the tank and try to make the best of it?
Thanks
Last edited by Kendrick; 05-12-2009 at 08:23 AM.
05-12-2009, 07:18 AM
#6
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Way Out West
Posts: 2,547
I didn't need to remove anything to adjust the front CCT. I lever up the coolant hose with a long screwdriver and grab the lock nut with a small needle nosed vice grip. Am able to get a ratchet with a shallow socket over the shaft head and turn it.
05-12-2009, 07:58 AM
#7
The Hypno-Toad
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 467
05-12-2009, 08:19 AM
#8
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SuperBike
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,051
tim
05-12-2009, 03:10 PM
#10
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 139
I have to disagree with running with no coolant. The water pump seals definitely will not like being run dry as there will be no lubrication. At the very least have some fluid in the system to fill the pump.
05-12-2009, 03:56 PM
#11
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Prairie , Texas
Posts: 599
30 seconds would barely score a piston with no oil, lol.
That seal wear would be so unmeasurable, I wouldnt even factor it at all.
You get more damage from putting a wrench on the bike, period.
The heat generated from testing it is the only risk to the engine.
That seal wear would be so unmeasurable, I wouldnt even factor it at all.
You get more damage from putting a wrench on the bike, period.
The heat generated from testing it is the only risk to the engine.
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