Carb Install
Well after much time I am nearing finish my rebuild after my CCT failure and subsequent destruction. One problem I am having is getting the carbs back into the boots. Is there a trick to this. Everything else is hooked up and yeah those enricher valve nuts are a bitch to get back in.
Other concerns. I finally gave up and put my front valve cover back on. Everything appears to be half a tooth off. I chalk this up as chain streched associated with the CCT fail. Has anyone had problems with this small of a difference. I hope not because it's a bitch to get the from cover on with the honda bond goop on it. Second. I can't really be positive my CCT's are adjusted right until I start the biike. Fron the look of it if I need to adjust the from APE the left radiator will have to come back of. Would it be okay to start up the bike with out any coolant for a short period of time so I can check it out. With any luck i can be back on the road after two more afternoons in the garage, and riding for the first time since September. any help is appreciated. Kendrick |
#1) carbs, just rock them side to side a little bit while pushing down. i set them into the front boot first them push down to seat them into the rear boot.
#2) on a motor with miles on it the cam marks will not be 'perfect'. #3) the front CCT is a bear to adjust. i didn't remove anything coolent related ... i'd run the bike without the airbox ( gives more room to get to the CCT ) before i'd run it without water. tim |
Originally Posted by trinc
(Post 216116)
#1) carbs, just rock them side to side a little bit while pushing down. i set them into the front boot first them push down to seat them into the rear boot.
#2) on a motor with miles on it the cam marks will not be 'perfect'. #3) the front CCT is a bear to adjust. i didn't remove anything coolent related ... i'd run the bike without the airbox ( gives more room to get to the CCT ) before i'd run it without water. tim #2) Thanks, I'll try to stop worrying about it. #3) Did you use a remote fuel supply or just prop up the tank and try to make the best of it? Thanks |
I'm no mechanic... but I'd make sure you can turn the motor at the crankbolt several times before hitting the start switch. Be a shame to frag it again.
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A little silicone spray on the carb boots works great. Popped right in for me both times I had them off.
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I didn't need to remove anything to adjust the front CCT. I lever up the coolant hose with a long screwdriver and grab the lock nut with a small needle nosed vice grip. Am able to get a ratchet with a shallow socket over the shaft head and turn it.
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Originally Posted by L8RGYZ
(Post 216119)
I'm no mechanic... but I'd make sure you can turn the motor at the crankbolt several times before hitting the start switch. Be a shame to frag it again.
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Originally Posted by Kendrick
(Post 216117)
#1) I'll have to try harder. Maybe hosing the boots down with WD-40 first. I ran out before they we're really coated.
#2) Thanks, I'll try to stop worrying about it. #3) Did you use a remote fuel supply or just prop up the tank and try to make the best of it? Thanks tim |
Starting the engine without coolant is fine, just dont run it more than 30 seconds or so.
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I have to disagree with running with no coolant. The water pump seals definitely will not like being run dry as there will be no lubrication. At the very least have some fluid in the system to fill the pump.
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30 seconds would barely score a piston with no oil, lol.
That seal wear would be so unmeasurable, I wouldnt even factor it at all. You get more damage from putting a wrench on the bike, period. The heat generated from testing it is the only risk to the engine. |
Originally Posted by Starbucks Fueled
(Post 216123)
A little silicone spray on the carb boots works great. Popped right in for me both times I had them off.
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