Another failing R/R?
04-29-2007, 09:13 AM
#1
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Another failing R/R?
I need help figuring this out...
A week ago after a short run to work to pick up a forgotten cell phone (in and out, just a short stop) my bike refused to start, just a tick when pressing the starter, second time the instruments went out, and I assumed it was a fuse, checked and found all of them to be OK...
Fired it up again, instrument ligths worked and it started, I didn't want to push my luck so i went home and THEN I tested re-starting without any problem...
The battery was OK when taking the bike out of winter storage about 2-3 months ago (trickle charged during storage) and now it needed charging...
Today after sitting for two days, the bike did the exact same thing...
I have done the checks according to the service manual, getting readings in all possible ways... there is no leak explaining a drained battery...
The coil and RR is supposed to be .2-.5 ohms and i get .7-.8 across the board, both regulator and coil, wich I'm unsure how to interpret...
The other thing that I'm unsure about is the charging voltage... At idle it's around 14.5 give or take some, but going up to 5000rpm it drops down to battery voltage... This instead of going up to somewhere around 15.5V as the service manual states (and I checked with the headligths on if that makes a difference?)
So since the readings on the coil is a bit of, it should basicly be replaced, but I'm guessing that going from .2-.5 to about .7-.8 is OK on a bike that has done a lot of miles since -97...
The problem is that I can't really figure out if it's the coil or the RR or both?!
I'm also pretty sure the RR is a lot cheaper to replace... A coil isn't likely to be cheap... And I'm a student with a rather tigth budget so...
I'm probably going to get a used RR from an R1 instead of the expensive OEM replacement... The cost of a used one should be low enough for it to be worth a shot in the dark...
Any help, additional test to run, or just thought's would be helpful...
A week ago after a short run to work to pick up a forgotten cell phone (in and out, just a short stop) my bike refused to start, just a tick when pressing the starter, second time the instruments went out, and I assumed it was a fuse, checked and found all of them to be OK...
Fired it up again, instrument ligths worked and it started, I didn't want to push my luck so i went home and THEN I tested re-starting without any problem...
The battery was OK when taking the bike out of winter storage about 2-3 months ago (trickle charged during storage) and now it needed charging...
Today after sitting for two days, the bike did the exact same thing...
I have done the checks according to the service manual, getting readings in all possible ways... there is no leak explaining a drained battery...
The coil and RR is supposed to be .2-.5 ohms and i get .7-.8 across the board, both regulator and coil, wich I'm unsure how to interpret...
The other thing that I'm unsure about is the charging voltage... At idle it's around 14.5 give or take some, but going up to 5000rpm it drops down to battery voltage... This instead of going up to somewhere around 15.5V as the service manual states (and I checked with the headligths on if that makes a difference?)
So since the readings on the coil is a bit of, it should basicly be replaced, but I'm guessing that going from .2-.5 to about .7-.8 is OK on a bike that has done a lot of miles since -97...
The problem is that I can't really figure out if it's the coil or the RR or both?!
I'm also pretty sure the RR is a lot cheaper to replace... A coil isn't likely to be cheap...
And I'm a student with a rather tigth budget so...I'm probably going to get a used RR from an R1 instead of the expensive OEM replacement... The cost of a used one should be low enough for it to be worth a shot in the dark...
Any help, additional test to run, or just thought's would be helpful...
04-29-2007, 09:26 AM
#2
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hmmm... that's not at all how my RR failed. My just went and caused my main fuse to blow right in the middle of an intersection, of course... leaving me with no electrical system what so ever. there were no warning signs either. it just happened. i'm far from the most electrically inclined person on here so i'm sure some of the other guys can help you. Good luck.
04-29-2007, 09:33 AM
#3
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Yeah I have heard horror stories about failing RR's going supernova... but also a few saying that they had some warning...
A guide somewhere detailing how to swap in a R1 RR listed a few pointers on visual inspection on the cabling, and mine does have some swelling in the cables and definite signs of a large current on atleast one of the terminals on the yellow cables...
So I'm inclined to think mine is about to give up... And I'm not waiting for it to blow anything else up... But I'm still unsure if it's really the RR or if the coil is also about to expire...
A guide somewhere detailing how to swap in a R1 RR listed a few pointers on visual inspection on the cabling, and mine does have some swelling in the cables and definite signs of a large current on atleast one of the terminals on the yellow cables...
So I'm inclined to think mine is about to give up... And I'm not waiting for it to blow anything else up... But I'm still unsure if it's really the RR or if the coil is also about to expire...
04-29-2007, 10:14 AM
#4
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That's because they can fail two opposite ways: under or over charging the battery. Sounds like yours was over while Tweety's is undercharging.
If going with Honda, make sure you get the updated one that has cooling fins on it; around $130 on up depending on source. There is a used original style in our classifieds for $40.
If going with Honda, make sure you get the updated one that has cooling fins on it; around $130 on up depending on source. There is a used original style in our classifieds for $40.
04-29-2007, 10:20 AM
#5
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Nope... A new Honda OEM costs about 280 USD here in Sweden... dunno what you guy can get them for in the US but that's a bit rich for me as a used one for an R1 costs about 45, and a new one for the R1 about 175 USD... and it's reportedly working the same... but has fins and last longer...
With those prices I can get a used one and a new one after that when it fails for less that the new Honda RR... Go figure...
With those prices I can get a used one and a new one after that when it fails for less that the new Honda RR... Go figure...
04-29-2007, 10:29 AM
#6
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I figured that they where cheaper in the US... but sheesh... more than twice as cheap as the cheapest one here in Sweden...
Grrr...*waves fist at local shops...*
I'm NOT buying locally ever, ever again...
Found a swedish online shop selling tham for ~218 USD + shipping... this is ridicilous... it's cheaper to order from the US even with the shipping...
Grrr...*waves fist at local shops...*
I'm NOT buying locally ever, ever again...
Found a swedish online shop selling tham for ~218 USD + shipping... this is ridicilous... it's cheaper to order from the US even with the shipping...
04-29-2007, 02:01 PM
#7
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You might want to also check out the GSXR series, used they are very plentiful here.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...gsxr+regulator
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...gsxr+regulator
04-30-2007, 04:20 AM
#8
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Yeah, seems the same applies here...
I ended up with a YZF-R1 -02 RR for around 50 USD, mainly because the nice guys at the salvage chopped of a few inches of the wire and the connector and sent it with the unit when i explained what I was going to use it for...
I ended up with a YZF-R1 -02 RR for around 50 USD, mainly because the nice guys at the salvage chopped of a few inches of the wire and the connector and sent it with the unit when i explained what I was going to use it for...
05-04-2007, 04:15 PM
#10
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So, I sae this post up a while ago, and in working on my hawk had the opportunity to check out the R/R and the epoxy is cracking. I then looked up in my trusty denniskirk catolog and found 4 options. Has anyone used these options as a replacement?
http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_ca...202&mmyId=2030
http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_ca...202&mmyId=2030
I could only find two on their site, but found more in the catalog. Please help
http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_ca...202&mmyId=2030
http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_ca...202&mmyId=2030
I could only find two on their site, but found more in the catalog. Please help
05-05-2007, 02:31 AM
#11
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Cracking epoxy doesn't neccesarily mean it's going to break... But it probably mean it's been plenty hot at more than one time...
How is the condition of the isolation on the cables and the plug? My plug looked a bit burnt and the cables where a bit bubbly...
If choosing between the two you linked I'd definetly go with the one with fins... not the secon one "OEM Replacement" that one looks identical to the original and will most likely have the same problems...
If you have a tigth budget (like me) go for a used Yamaha or Suzuki R/R...
Here's a link to the guide I followed in replacing mine with a Yamaha YSF-R1 R/R..http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/
How is the condition of the isolation on the cables and the plug? My plug looked a bit burnt and the cables where a bit bubbly...
If choosing between the two you linked I'd definetly go with the one with fins... not the secon one "OEM Replacement" that one looks identical to the original and will most likely have the same problems...
If you have a tigth budget (like me) go for a used Yamaha or Suzuki R/R...
Here's a link to the guide I followed in replacing mine with a Yamaha YSF-R1 R/R..http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/
05-05-2007, 08:30 AM
#12
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You are right that it doesn't mean that it is going, but it is giving the opportunity. When the epoxy cracks it lets moisture in, and this causes the damage of short circuiting and corroding. I would rather spend a hundred now then $150 later.
05-05-2007, 01:51 PM
#14
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Has anyone used these options as a replacement?
http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_ca...202&mmyId=2030
http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_ca...202&mmyId=2030
05-23-2007, 08:34 AM
#16
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That would sound like a loose connection somewhere - does the headlight go dim or off when the cluster acts up? If so then it could be a charging issue otherwise I would check for loose or damaged wiring to the cluster.
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