Adjusting MCCT
04-29-2014, 10:31 PM
#1
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SuperSport
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Location: Auckland, new Zealand
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Adjusting MCCT
These are the MCCTs that came on my bike. So Im correct in thinking to check they are adjusted right I undo the locking nut and wind the inner screw in untill its tight then back out 1/4 turn?
Cheers
Cheers
04-29-2014, 10:53 PM
#2
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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open the rear cam cover, and check the slack on the cam chain. it should be 5-7mm. the whole "finger tight and then 1/4 turn back" and all that is very random. best to just check the slack on the chain and make sure.
how many miles are on the bike? id leave them alone because they are probably fine
how many miles are on the bike? id leave them alone because they are probably fine
04-29-2014, 11:11 PM
#3
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open the rear cam cover, and check the slack on the cam chain. it should be 5-7mm. the whole "finger tight and then 1/4 turn back" and all that is very random. best to just check the slack on the chain and make sure.
how many miles are on the bike? id leave them alone because they are probably fine
how many miles are on the bike? id leave them alone because they are probably fine
I had been hearing a rattle when riding today which brought it to mind but found my chain dragging on the LH pipe. Its due a new chain and sprockets as it has a big tight spot. Seems the previous owner was not big on chain lube. Bike now has a Scott Oiler.
04-30-2014, 07:20 AM
#4
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Your MCCT's will not fail or cause problems unless anything loosens up or you meddle with them. That's their advantage. Once they're set, they need little if any attention for thousands of miles. When you take the valve covers off, say for a valve check (I think it's recommended at 28,000 miles) then you can check slack. Otherwise, like jscobey said, leave them alone!
04-30-2014, 09:18 PM
#6
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Tyler, are you asking if the intake cam on the rear cylinder will work as the intake cam on the front cylinder? If so, then yes.
Just curious, but why do you ask? And welcome to the site!
Just curious, but why do you ask? And welcome to the site!
04-30-2014, 10:01 PM
#8
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Squid
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 40
Recently change mine but I have to agree with others here, If your suspicious of noise, check the CCT tension as suggested above. If all is fine........LEAVE EM ALONE!
I feel NO MORE comfortable with my new CCT's than I did my old ones. No one here seems to be able to settle on how much tension is enough or not. The hole FINGER tight thing then 1/4 more (less?) doesn't FEEL right at all.
But I have to admit, I have no issues so far with the new ones I installed.
I feel NO MORE comfortable with my new CCT's than I did my old ones. No one here seems to be able to settle on how much tension is enough or not. The hole FINGER tight thing then 1/4 more (less?) doesn't FEEL right at all.
But I have to admit, I have no issues so far with the new ones I installed.
05-01-2014, 01:28 AM
#9
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05-01-2014, 05:29 AM
#10
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Oh geeze guys. If your bike has mccts in it and is running, just make sure all the bolts are tight and then forget about them. It is not going to cause problems if it is a little off.
To feel comfortable, take valve covers off and check play in the chain between cam sprockets at tdc. 1/4" or so and you're good. No finger tight, no adjusting when it's running. If they're too tight your bike will run slow. If they're too loose you'll hear slapping. They have to be very loose to skip teeth.
To feel comfortable, take valve covers off and check play in the chain between cam sprockets at tdc. 1/4" or so and you're good. No finger tight, no adjusting when it's running. If they're too tight your bike will run slow. If they're too loose you'll hear slapping. They have to be very loose to skip teeth.
Last edited by 7moore7; 05-01-2014 at 05:33 AM.
05-01-2014, 10:03 AM
#11
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Squid
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well I bought a full head off of Ebay and the guy didn't package it very well and the lobes were dinged up..... and he said he will send the rear intaake if they work, so i am just checking it out for myself.
05-01-2014, 10:14 AM
#12
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Why not check while hot and running? I've checked with the valve covers off after a running adjustment and found them spot-on but I have a keen ear and steady, sensitive gloved hands.
Oh geeze guys. If your bike has mccts in it and is running, just make sure all the bolts are tight and then forget about them. It is not going to cause problems if it is a little off.
To feel comfortable, take valve covers off and check play in the chain between cam sprockets at tdc. 1/4" or so and you're good. No finger tight, no adjusting when it's running. If they're too tight your bike will run slow. If they're too loose you'll hear slapping. They have to be very loose to skip teeth.
To feel comfortable, take valve covers off and check play in the chain between cam sprockets at tdc. 1/4" or so and you're good. No finger tight, no adjusting when it's running. If they're too tight your bike will run slow. If they're too loose you'll hear slapping. They have to be very loose to skip teeth.
05-01-2014, 10:46 AM
#13
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So, if your bike is running with MCCT's but you don't feel confident they're adjusted right (they likely are if they're in there and there isn't excessive rattling or squealing): Take valve covers off, set 1/4" of play between sprockets at TDC. Locktite and tighten all bolts. Then you can be completely sure that you don't have to worry about anything CCT related again. End. Anything beyond that is fine tuning, nit picking, and general oil thread stuff.
05-02-2014, 04:09 PM
#15
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LOL
Not "laughing out load"
Limitation Of Liability
It's a given...
If one has the gonads to try it once...
Really, I've been doing it on Honda's since 1972 so its natural for me to feel the engine change, and listen for knocking too
It was easy on the old parallel twins to adjust the valves the same way.
British clutches and some merican iron were adjusted under load.
Cam chains are really easier.
Limitation Of Liability
It's a given...
If one has the gonads to try it once...
Really, I've been doing it on Honda's since 1972 so its natural for me to feel the engine change, and listen for knocking too
It was easy on the old parallel twins to adjust the valves the same way.
British clutches and some merican iron were adjusted under load.
Cam chains are really easier.
05-03-2014, 01:57 AM
#16
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Superstock
Join Date: May 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 397
Limitation Of Liability LOL OMG no......we havent quite got to that stage of suing each other for anything and everything yet. We're only about 10 years behind 
Just ones conscience to deal with here.
Someone with a bit of mechanical experience then yes go and adjusts by hand, saves a bit of work. But as has been said some folk have run into problems with devastating consequences. Especially when they are the type of person that couldn't tighten a 10mm bolt without snapping it.
(:-})
Just ones conscience to deal with here.Someone with a bit of mechanical experience then yes go and adjusts by hand, saves a bit of work. But as has been said some folk have run into problems with devastating consequences. Especially when they are the type of person that couldn't tighten a 10mm bolt without snapping it.
(:-})
05-03-2014, 02:51 PM
#17
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You and 7M7 without realizing it raised the LOL flag. If someone asks you provide options and let them decide based on their experience and confidence.
It saves a LOT of work to adjust running hot, as not a part needs to be removed to gain access (though small, heat resistant fingers are a plus).
Race mechanics have long adjusted cam chains, valves and clutches (wet & dry) hot when running by feel/ear. Valve lash is given for cold checks but does not apply to hot running adjustment as you never even see the valves.
Checking hot and running means dimensions and tolerances are as they will be rather than when cold and looser; which is another good selling point.
Each to their own but I hate the work required to get to the front valves. Also, in order to check cam chain deflection (I've read less than 5 mm) one must remove the 1 side bolt (of 3) that secure the "chain guard bridge" with the nylon slider. Even with rags stuffed in cam chain tunnel, it is very easy to drop that lil' bolt down to the basement, which IMO is much more scary...
When changing front valve lash shims, I zip-tie the sprockets to the chain and leave the sprockets on the cam positioned with rags in zip-lock bags (with air squeezed out). Removing the 2 left radiator mounting bolts and lowering the oil cooler (4 bolts) makes it easier to slide the valve cover out the front (it won't come out rearward, dam). Use a piece of cardboard to protect the cover from being scratched on the frame.
It saves a LOT of work to adjust running hot, as not a part needs to be removed to gain access (though small, heat resistant fingers are a plus).
Race mechanics have long adjusted cam chains, valves and clutches (wet & dry) hot when running by feel/ear. Valve lash is given for cold checks but does not apply to hot running adjustment as you never even see the valves.
Checking hot and running means dimensions and tolerances are as they will be rather than when cold and looser; which is another good selling point.
Each to their own but I hate the work required to get to the front valves. Also, in order to check cam chain deflection (I've read less than 5 mm) one must remove the 1 side bolt (of 3) that secure the "chain guard bridge" with the nylon slider. Even with rags stuffed in cam chain tunnel, it is very easy to drop that lil' bolt down to the basement, which IMO is much more scary...
When changing front valve lash shims, I zip-tie the sprockets to the chain and leave the sprockets on the cam positioned with rags in zip-lock bags (with air squeezed out). Removing the 2 left radiator mounting bolts and lowering the oil cooler (4 bolts) makes it easier to slide the valve cover out the front (it won't come out rearward, dam). Use a piece of cardboard to protect the cover from being scratched on the frame.
05-03-2014, 04:12 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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Each to their own but I hate the work required to get to the front valves. Also, in order to check cam chain deflection (I've read less than 5 mm) one must remove the 1 side bolt (of 3) that secure the "chain guard bridge" with the nylon slider. Even with rags stuffed in cam chain tunnel, it is very easy to drop that lil' bolt down to the basement, which IMO is much more scary...
And remember, we did have a member back theirs out too far causing the top end to destroy itself. The procedure give for that person was to back it out until it rattles, then tighten till it stops. This is how I've done it and would do it again.
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