Adding driving lights?
10-31-2005, 12:11 PM
#1
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nananimo, B.C.
Posts: 764
Adding driving lights?
Just wondering if you guys think there's enough power in the system to add a couple of small driving lights.
I've put a HID bulb in and playing with the alignment I still find myself need more light. Maybe stick some small ovals inside the fairing around the forks (sides or top) if there's room.
I've put a HID bulb in and playing with the alignment I still find myself need more light. Maybe stick some small ovals inside the fairing around the forks (sides or top) if there's room.
10-31-2005, 05:26 PM
#2
Member
Squid
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa.
Posts: 46
NOrrTh,
Do you run any other accesories? I have been using a Gerbings full jacket liner, plugged into a battery lead for years, without problems. I'm sure it draws much more power. Other than the liner, though, I have not added anything else which draws power. Too date I've never had an electrical problem. GB.
Do you run any other accesories? I have been using a Gerbings full jacket liner, plugged into a battery lead for years, without problems. I'm sure it draws much more power. Other than the liner, though, I have not added anything else which draws power. Too date I've never had an electrical problem. GB.
10-31-2005, 08:57 PM
#3
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SuperSport
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 882
11-01-2005, 11:03 AM
#6
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SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nananimo, B.C.
Posts: 764
Re: Adding driving lights?
No I don't run any other accessories. I'd like to put them on a toggle so they're not on during the day. Its just with our r/r problems and I know nothing about electricity and amp draws.. I dunno if this will work.
A little while ago I hit a rabbit on the freeway. He was standing up right in the middle of the road looking right into my head light. I was running on low beam and was going faster than I could stop in the distance it shone ahead. Its as far ahead down the road as I can get it and still have a functional high beam. So I need these driving lights to make up the diff between low and high.
A little while ago I hit a rabbit on the freeway. He was standing up right in the middle of the road looking right into my head light. I was running on low beam and was going faster than I could stop in the distance it shone ahead. Its as far ahead down the road as I can get it and still have a functional high beam. So I need these driving lights to make up the diff between low and high.
01-14-2010, 01:48 PM
#7
How could you wire these up for use? Directly to the battery or another fust link?
I am thinking of putting two in just under the front fairing. If I installed them next to the front wheel I am sure that I might catch them on the ground or a pothole.
I am thinking of putting two in just under the front fairing. If I installed them next to the front wheel I am sure that I might catch them on the ground or a pothole.
01-14-2010, 01:54 PM
#8
Speed Demon
Superstock
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 272
If you mount them under the headlight on the fairing you have to be careful that the fork dust cover thingys dont hit the mounting bracket for the driving lights. Mounted mine there but didnt like the look. Still have not hooked up mine. If you seach the forum there is a member who had a nice set up,where his driving lights were mounted in the vents on the side of the head light up front.
Philip
Philip
01-14-2010, 02:44 PM
#9
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Delmar NY
Posts: 805
You mention the HID bulb and alignment issues so i can only guess you did not get a projector from a BMW or Acura. Search on HID and you will find several topics discussing this. With a projector combined with your HID you should have exceptional light far beyond anything additional halogen running lights will provide
01-15-2010, 07:17 AM
#10
If you mount them under the headlight on the fairing you have to be careful that the fork dust cover thingys dont hit the mounting bracket for the driving lights. Mounted mine there but didnt like the look. Still have not hooked up mine. If you seach the forum there is a member who had a nice set up,where his driving lights were mounted in the vents on the side of the head light up front.
01-15-2010, 08:39 AM
#11
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Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NorthEast Connecticut
Posts: 292
Or, you could optimize your stock set-up as in this thread https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...dlight+upgrade
Described in detail by Tweety in the following post in the above thread
Well either you spend money buying a kit... Rather costly If you ask me... Here is one example... www.easternbeaver.com
The DIY version is simple... Your local DIY store or autoparts store should have all of it on the shelf for a few bucks... I'm not sure about the measurements listed at your end...
3,5-4 mm squared in cable width should be plenty, If you wan't to be real hardcore, do one for highbeam and one for lowbeam... Omron G8MS-**** relays or comparable should also be a shelf item... This is only an example, just make sure it's weather proof though... A H4 socket and plug, to make it possible to reverse this is optional... I just cut the cables... Some spade connectors, and ring connectors for the battery terminals, and an fuse/fuseholder on the positive line...
Note: If you want to be able to restore the original, you will have to use an H4 socket and plug, not in my instructions...
1. Run two cables (pos/neg) to the front, along the cable channels, put the fuse holder on the positive, close to the battery under the saddle, and put on ring connectors...
2. Connect the positive cable to the feed lines (input) on the relays (short wire to the second relay) and find a good place up close to the headlight for the relays...
3. Connect the drain (output) of the relays to the headlight, lowbeam on one relay and highbeam on the other...
4. The negative wire (ground) connects up directly to the headligh H4 plug...
5. The stock headlight cables coming from the handlebar switch is connected to the coil on the relays, mind the high/low beam orientation... Also the stock ground connects to the ground on the relay...
6. For obvious reasons make sure all connectors are sealed up to be weather protected, using electricians tape or vulcanizing tape, no substitutes allowed...
The result is that the switch and the stock wiring only supply voltage to operate the relay, and the shoddy wiring is more than enough for that...
Now when you test it the light will be bright white, even with the stock bulb, not the yellow light that indicates that the bulb is underpowered... An good quality bulb like the Silvania or such, possibly even a higher wattage than stock and then you are set...
Just don't look directly into the headlight at close range when testing... Don't ask me why I know...
Described in detail by Tweety in the following post in the above thread
Well either you spend money buying a kit... Rather costly If you ask me... Here is one example... www.easternbeaver.com
The DIY version is simple... Your local DIY store or autoparts store should have all of it on the shelf for a few bucks... I'm not sure about the measurements listed at your end...
3,5-4 mm squared in cable width should be plenty, If you wan't to be real hardcore, do one for highbeam and one for lowbeam... Omron G8MS-**** relays or comparable should also be a shelf item... This is only an example, just make sure it's weather proof though... A H4 socket and plug, to make it possible to reverse this is optional... I just cut the cables... Some spade connectors, and ring connectors for the battery terminals, and an fuse/fuseholder on the positive line...
Note: If you want to be able to restore the original, you will have to use an H4 socket and plug, not in my instructions...
1. Run two cables (pos/neg) to the front, along the cable channels, put the fuse holder on the positive, close to the battery under the saddle, and put on ring connectors...
2. Connect the positive cable to the feed lines (input) on the relays (short wire to the second relay) and find a good place up close to the headlight for the relays...
3. Connect the drain (output) of the relays to the headlight, lowbeam on one relay and highbeam on the other...
4. The negative wire (ground) connects up directly to the headligh H4 plug...
5. The stock headlight cables coming from the handlebar switch is connected to the coil on the relays, mind the high/low beam orientation... Also the stock ground connects to the ground on the relay...
6. For obvious reasons make sure all connectors are sealed up to be weather protected, using electricians tape or vulcanizing tape, no substitutes allowed...
The result is that the switch and the stock wiring only supply voltage to operate the relay, and the shoddy wiring is more than enough for that...
Now when you test it the light will be bright white, even with the stock bulb, not the yellow light that indicates that the bulb is underpowered... An good quality bulb like the Silvania or such, possibly even a higher wattage than stock and then you are set...
Just don't look directly into the headlight at close range when testing... Don't ask me why I know...
01-15-2010, 08:47 AM
#12
COBB Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NorthEast Connecticut
Posts: 292
Another good thread for the DIYer
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...eadlight+relay
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...eadlight+relay
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