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racetech gold valves question

Old 09-03-2010, 10:50 AM
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racetech gold valves question

I'm about to start buying the racetech springs and gold valves for my winter project (or I might get somebody else to do it, not sure yet). But what gold valves do I need to buy?

From searching this forum, it seems like most get the Type 1 Gold Valve kit (FMGV S2040, 169.99 on the website). But at the top of the Racetech page for our bike, it says "Fork Comments: Rebound Gold Valve recommended." The rebound kit is FRGV S02, also 169.99 on the website. Should I get both? Or just one (and which one)? The price really starts to add up. 170+170+110 (springs) = 450 bucks.

I'm a suspension newbie, and was about to try a full front end swap, but after researching it on here, I'm getting scared away from that. Now I think I just want to go the Racetech route, and upgrade the m/c and calipers to f4i most likely. Thanks in advance.

P.S.- If it matters, I'm 175 lbs without gear, give or take a pizza. I mostly commute with the bike, but I do occasional track days and mountain rides.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:07 AM
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Um... To be quite honest, the level of complexity and difficulty of doing the RaceTech stuff is probably higher than swapping out the front, but that's your decision...

At your current weight even with a few added pizza's the stock rebound circuit is more than enough capable... I'd save those 170 bucks for pizza's instead... Or for upgrading the rear shock which at your weight is a bit stiff and harsh once you get the front dialed in...

If you go for Type 1 or 2 GW's are your own preference... The Type 2 are supposedly a bit better, but since you are not going racing I'd say the Type 1 will be more than good enough...
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:22 AM
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Well it is my decision, but I can be persuaded if enough experienced people tell me I'm an idiot. The fork swap just seems tough after reading the write-ups. I was thinking about 04-07 CBR1000rr forks, wheel, brakes, and rotors, paired with 954/929 triples. I can't remember the issues with that swap off the top of my head, but I remember being scared for some reason.

Maybe it was the steering geometry issues. Damn it, now I'm changing my mind again. Thanks a lot. No, seriously, thank you for answering my original question.
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Old 09-03-2010, 01:03 PM
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Doing the front end swap is actually fairly simple and straight forward.
Add to that the fact that you end up with bigger and better brakes, it really is the way to go.

If you do decide to stay with the stock stuff, I agree with Tweety in that you really don't need the rebound valves. Also budget in a fork brace, as the stock set up really benefits from adding one.
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Old 09-03-2010, 01:20 PM
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I've already got a fork brace, and it alone was a noticeable improvement, even just commuting. It even made the braking "feel" better with less chatter. I wasn't expecting that.

I think I'm back to the full swap idea now. I'm still sorting through all the forum posts about it, because I think all my questions have already been answered, just maybe not in one place. I'm mostly concerned with:

1. What would I have to cut/modify/move to make it fit?
2. Do I have the tools and "know-how" to do those cuts/mods/moves?
3. Is there an easier solution using a different combination of parts (like 954 triples paired with 1000 everything else) that avoids cuts/mods/moves without causing other issues (like fork spacing)?

This seems complicated, but I think once I start doing it, it will make more sense. I just want to get the right parts before I start. I don't like surprises.
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Old 09-03-2010, 01:46 PM
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My advice is about the same as you are already talking about...

The 929/954 triples... You need to trim the steering stops to let them move full lock... All you need for that is a simple file... Then you can either live with it or move the radiators back a bit so you avoid pinching the front hoses... That's a couple of flat alu pieces and a drillbit...

Apart from that, stick the full CBR1000RR front on there, use all the parts except the triples and the clip-ons... Then the only part left is to choose a set of clip-on... Either a set of adjustable one's as the ConvertiBars or a set of Helibars... My choiche would be the adjustable ones, making it easy to get everything tucked in neat...

So apart from a file, a drillpress and some alu pieces and some various nuts and bolts, all you need is stock Honda parts and the toolbox under the sadle... Better tools make it easier, but they arent really needed...

That sound easy enough?
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Old 09-03-2010, 01:52 PM
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The triple is pretty easy,
It starts out like this (I did start working on one side before I remembered to take some pics....):

racetech gold valves question-004.jpg

When you are done it looks like this:

racetech gold valves question-010.jpg

If you don't want to move the Rads (but I did end up moving mine after i tried it out) it will look like this:

racetech gold valves question-012.jpg

and that is the most difficult part of the entire swap.
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Old 09-03-2010, 01:59 PM
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Moving the Rads is also pretty easy.

Here is how I did mine:

racetech gold valves question-017.jpg

racetech gold valves question-016.jpg

racetech gold valves question-015.jpg

about the only thing that was a bit tricky is that I trimmed the spacers and the rear rubber mount the thickness of the Al that i used so the rads would sit on the sam plane as they did originally

racetech gold valves question-010.jpg
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Old 09-03-2010, 02:10 PM
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if you swapped out the front.........dibs on the fork brace.
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Old 09-03-2010, 02:42 PM
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What's the downside to using the CBR1000 triples compared to 954 triples. I know about the appearance difference and that the 1000rr triples are slightly wider so you have to shave down the lower fairing, but anything else? Are the forks spaced the same?

Is the easiest thing to use a 1000rr wheel (versus a VTR wheel)? Or does it not matter?

I'd like to use 1000rr everything since they often come together (minus the wheel/rotors) on eBay, but . . .

1. If 954 triples make for an easier assembly, then I'll use 954 triples.
2. If I can use my VTR wheel, then that will save some money. But I think there are fit problems with that, right?
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Old 09-03-2010, 02:56 PM
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Well... That is the difference... The forks are 3mm further apart, putting them 1.5mm further out on each side, making it necessary to shave the fairing...

No... You can definetly not use the VTR wheel... It's a 20mm axle and the CBR is 25mm... The spacing of the brake discs are way off, and the bolt pattern is different... Basically don't bother...

You can however use the front wheel from the 929/954/1000RR as long as you use the brake rotors from the CBR1000RR...
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Old 09-09-2010, 03:43 PM
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The 1000RR upper triple has mounting points for the HESD, which when removed is pretty ugly. Much better to use the 929/954 triples. You can't mix and match since the offset is different on the 1000RR.
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Old 09-10-2010, 10:48 AM
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What are the parts to avoid off of the 08-10 CBR1000's? I know something doesn't fit, but can't find it right now. Is the steering head a different diameter?
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Old 09-10-2010, 11:01 AM
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The triples won't work... So that's correct... Other than that only the clip-ons are a no-no...
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