CNI Dawg

HELP !

I'm installing RaceTech springs, Gold Valve (compression), and Revound valves.

My Gold Valve (compression) kit did not come with instructions.
Do any of you guys still have the instructions for your Gold Valve kit?

Would you please email me a copy?

I would really appreciate it !
Thanks
Bill

CNI Dawg

It seems I need an access code to get the info from racetech.
Anybody got the code?

Today is the 2nd day w/o riding the Superhawk & I'm getting antsy (sp?)
I NEED to ride soon !!!

Please help
Pretty please

CNI Dawg

So if you want to change your oil or spring weight you have to pay them AGAIN to access their data base for new shim stack info??????

What is wrong with this picture?
You pay $150 for a gold valve kit, $150 for a rebound kit, $100 for springs and only get a one time use on line calculator guide for shim stack setup?
Every time after that you have to pay them $50 for another use of their on line calculator?

Now I know why Marcus McBain @ RPS doesn't use RaceTech anymore !
I won't either....they'll not get anymore of my money !

superbling

No, you get a chart with a range of stacks. Not only did I make a screen save, I printed it a couple of times too!
Why didn't you get instructions? Used set?

Since you can sell stock forks on ebay for $300-350, my racetech'ed forks @$450 are a pretty durn good deal IMO ( see classifieds). Yeah, I know, a little late for you.

superbling

IIRC (please correct me if I'm wrong), the public use calculator will tell you EVERYTHING except the shim stack. You get a significant range of stacks with your code. Again IIRC, I put in different weights for me while "my window" was open and got the same stacks but I kept it realistic (up/down about 20lbs).

You really can't alter between street and race settings anyway as they require different sized relief holes drilled in the compression valve, thus you'd need two of 'em if you played by their rules.

FYI CNIdawg, you don't change oil weights in their system as it's designed for one specific wt oil. Changing shim stacks controls behavior and the external adjuster(s) fine tune it.

CNI Dawg

Does anyone still have their instructions???
Please scan & email them to me.

CNI Dawg

It was a new set but the instructions were missing.
Got it on a discounted deal off another sport bike forum.
I think there may be a missing package of shims too.
I guess the instructions had the one time access code.

CNI Dawg

If you would email me a copy (after you use your access code of course) I would be very grateful !
What weight springs are you using ?
Did you get both compression & rebound valves?
It would be interesting to know what shim stack they suggest you use.

I sat down & studied both rebound and compression valves and came to the conclusion that the valve kits cover more than just the VTR.
If the rebound valve were assembled with just the racetech parts it would flow the wrong way.
I had to reuse some of the stock parts to get it to flow the correct way.
Everything is back together using Mark's custom shim stack on the compression valve.
So maybe I won't need racetech's shim stack info...a few test rides should tell.

Tomorrow I need to get my wheels back from the M/C shop with the new Michelin Pilot Powers mounted, install them, install the Gilles rear sets, install the Galfer SS clutch line, reinstall the fairing & I'll be ready for a test ride !

Wish the ceramic coater would finish my TRB pipes & the power coating on my my VTR bars !
Would have liked to finish that on my days off too!
Oh well .....there's always next week

NOrrTH

Maybe you could get Bronco to type in your specs on the online calc and print out the results so you don't need the code.

superbling

I found mine (instructions and shim stack data). If you want me to mail you a copy, send me an address. Should be there by the weekend. doug.smith@tamuk.edu

CNI Dawg

Thanks Superbling!

(email's on the way)

superbling

Went out this a.m.

CNI Dawg

Thanks a million !!!!

CNI Dawg

Got them!
Thanks !

OMG I didn't know I should have drilled a bleed hole in the compression valve!
Looks like I have to go back in & correct that problem.

I wonder why the 30 in/lb torque is SO important?

jschmidt

Just call them.

SlowHAWK

Hey boys... got a few questions here regarding this topic as I currently have my forks out and apart while changing over to the race tech compression valves and .85 springs...

1. What weight oil and how much are you using in your forks... I know there is a "rider" preference component here, but the Race Tech site told me 10 wt. 155mm, my Honda book was 130mm, I've seen other people suggest a whole lot of options (expected), but just trying to get some sort of baseline since 155 and 130 seem to be so far apart. I'm willing to experiment, but just trying to get as close as possible to aviod being way off early on.

2. To those whom have done just the springs and compression valves, have you also modded the dampening rod taper... ie. grind the step off as shown here (http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/vtr_sus.htm) or is this something the "average" rider like myself can live without?

3. As for the springs and spacers.... have you found that just cutting the new spacers along with spring to match the same length of the stock spring and spacer gets you close on setting the preload/sag with the adjusters, or will I need to shy to longer/shorter spacer.

Thanks in advance, I know a ton of people have written about these topics, but as always I've found so much, I think I've confused myself a bit!!!

J.

CNI Dawg

This is what I found out. Let the experts chime in with their comments (Please! )

1.)
I used RT's suggested 10wt oil. Seems OK
I tried the Honda 130mm level....It was TOO STIFF !
The RT spring is longer than stock.
It occupies more area than the stock spring.
That is why the RT's suggested 155mm oil level is 25mm lower than stock....to compensate for the extra mass of the new spring.
You can add more oil if you want it to be stiffer on compression.

2.)
I did not grind the rebound damping rod. Can't offer any help there. I did think about it & came to the conclusion that if I screwed it up I would have to wait for new rods from Honda before I could ride again. Hence they remain stock

3.)
RT gives long detailed instructions on the sheet and the exact measurement when you use their on-line calcualtor (make sure to print & save that page when you use it...you only get one shot to use it & they change $50 to get the valve shim data.)
My 1st time in the forks (I've been in 3 times so far) I cut the spacers to match the stock springs & spacer overall length.
The last time I followed the RT instructions & found I was 5mm short on the preload set length. Fortunately I was able to use the stock and RT spring washers which came up to about 4.5mm of the 5mm I needed. Maybe next time I go in the forks I'll cut new spacers.

I hope this helps.

P.S. I had a hard time finding a 1.3mm drill bit to dril the hold in the gold compression valve. I settled on a Dremel drill bit set from Home Depot which had a 1.2mm bit (3/64" if i remember correctly - the mm conversion was on the back of the bit set box). I figured it was close enough to RT's suggestion of either 1.0mm for race or 1.3mm for street.

Make sure to dress the drill hole & keep everything VERY clean.
Also observe the 30in/lb torque limit on the gold valve bolt. It is VERY important. More force than recommended will not let the shims flex like they are supposed too.
Also be easy with the red lock tight. too much it will squish out and become trash in the oil (could stick in the valve or shim & mess up it's preformance.

SlowHAWK

CNI.... thanks for the update and help....

1. I'll make sure to fill to the the 155mm instead of the honda spec....
2. I was just in the basement examining the rebound rod I'm contemplating grinding..... it looks fairly straight forward, but just like you am debating the benefit of modding it vs. the chance of screwing it up and paying for it.
3. I see your point on the spring length.... I think I might experiment with some PVC pipe before cutting the final parts.... real cheap and I have plenty laying around.

As for the drill bit.... my Race Tech notes say to use a #55.... which you should be able to find in a decent hardware store.

Thanks agian for your help... will let you know how mine goes once I put them back together this weekend.

J.

SlowHAWK

Allright.. I need some advice before I screw something up....

I'm finally putting together my Valves (Compression) and have some questions regarding the stack/parts that are to be put back in.....

Below is a pic of my old valve with some of the parts numbered in the order they were stacked...
I also have a pic of a Race Tech'd Valve (I borrowed off the net) and labeled a bit....

What I am looking for is some guidence on the order/parts I'm supposed to put back on.... I have the shim stack for my weight from Race Tech (c33) so I get that part.... but do I need to put some of the old washers and/or some of the spacers they provided on as well? It seems like I would, but just want to make sure before I put everything back together incorrectly.... any advice/help is greatley appriciated....

J

SlowHAWK

Anyone? Please?

superbling

IIRC yes, you use #1&2 as indicated in that second picture. It's been too long since I did mine to say 100% for sure and I left my instructions at work. What's your excuse? Dog ate 'em?

SlowHAWK

I wish the dog ate them.... it's just they are very vague directions to be kind... I hate the fact you spend 150, and everything is so generic, a billion extra shims, spacers, nuts, etc. that you don't need... and not one diagram of the VTR specific valve setup.... wouldn't have killed them to put a line drawing of it...

CNI Dawg

I sympathize completely !
I cussed many times at my ignorance during the assembly.

I had to use a combination of RT stuff & stock stuff.
Of course I have been in both forks 3 times each to get it right...at least I hope it's right. It seems to work fine now.
I knew little to nothing about hydraulic valves when I started.
The video is generic when trying to apply it to our VTR forks.
I had to study the instructions and the valves a lot to figure it out.
(I'm a little slow sometimes)

What I found out is:
The base thick shim must be free to move with spring tension holding it against the gold valve. Check it with your finger nail for freedom of movement.
The shim stack on the other side of the valve must be built so the shims have room to flex with hydraulic pressure.
I assume that's why they start with the big shims first and stack them to look like a christmas tree.
After the last shim in stack shim it doesn't matter how you space it to where the threads are so long as the washers don't interfear with the shimstack flexing. I think I used an extra of the smallest shim just to be sure.
I found I went past the shoulder of the bolt slightly into the thread area.
Not much maybe a few shims width of distance.
This is where the "EXACTLY 30 in/lb"s comes into play and the "RED Locktight".
The finishing washers compress the shim stack and gold valve with "EXACTLY 30in/lb" of force. Any more the shims are too tight. any less they don't have enough pressure. They must be able to flex but not be distorted by excess pressure.
I'm trying to remember (I did both compression & rebound valves) I think I used the RT brass washer and the thin stock washer but NOT the stock thin shims.
The reason, I finally concluded, was to make sure when I tightened the bolt I didn't have a thick stock shim hang on the shoulder of the bolt & give a false torque reading. I wanted a thick washer(s) that i knew were not going to hang.

Hope this helps

If any experts want to chime in it would be appreciated.
I'm still an apprentice at this with no Master to teach me the tricks