poppazuti

Started hearing the "death rattle" on mine about a week ago. Ordered the APE cct's on Thursday and they just arrived. Diggin into it Monday morning. Anyone else that is looking into doing this, check out this website www.overstockpartsgalore.com The cct's were $109 with gaskets and shipping included and shipped super fast. Best deal I could find on the net (as none of the local shops seem to be able to get them for me...), hope this helps someone else out looking to do the swap. I'll keep posted with the results. Wish me luck.

poppazuti

So I was reading the Haynes manual supplied by the p/o and their steps for cct removal states that you can unscrew the tensioner cap bolt and use a flat head screwdriver to retract the plunger before removing stock cct. Nowhere else does it say anything about turning engine to tdc... How important is this step? It seems that if you slowly release pressure on the cam chain the cams aren't likely to jump. Does anyone have any experience doing it this way or is it safer doing the steps outlined in this thread? It looks like it would save about an hours time going by the Haynes manual, but I don't want to risk the cams jumping by trying to save a little bit of time. Any help would be appreciated.

Update: Just looked at the Honda Service Manual and cct removal is only addressed during camshaft removal, but again it outlines pretty much the same technique as the Haynes manual, release pressure, remove and replace.

opsmgr

It'll take nowhere near an hour to find front and rear compression stroke. More like 5 minutes, and that includes removing the spark plug and timing inspection plug.

[Standard disclaimer, this is the method I use, use at your own risk]

Seriously, decide which pot you want to do, and remove the spark plug from the OTHER cylinder. Turn engine anticlockwise using the 17mm bolt in the stator (big plug in the stator cover) until you feel compression. STOP at TDC by looking for the relevant FT or RT timing mark. You are now at compression, with the least camchain tension. You can now release the compression pressure in the cylinder if necessary by loosening the spark plug and (relatively safely) remove the relevant CCT and replace.

Same for the other cylinder. If you're not sure about the 270degree or 450 degree rotation, then replace the plug and remove the other cylinder's spark plug. Stop at TDC compression again.

If you don't understand the above, DON'T attempt the CCT replacement yourself take it to someone who does ;-)

Bottom line is, you can change it at any point in the 4 stroke cycle, but you run a real risk that a camshaft will turn if one of the valve springs is under compression.

Cheers,

Paul.

lazn

The problem isn't the tension from the CCT, it is the pressure from the valve spring that will want to turn the camshaft.. Releasing the cct tension slowly will not solve the problem, and you run the risk of the chain jumping a tooth in just the same way.. You are already that far into it that the 4 bolts to remove the rear valve cover is really not a big deal (literally you are talking 4 bolts, that's the difference) that you might as well be sure rather than risk it.

In the service manual the only time it talks about removing the CCT is as part of removing the camshaft (page 8-4) and if you are removing the camshaft you have to retime it anyways, so it won't matter if it jumps a tooth. You are trying to replace the CCT without having to retime the valve system..

poppazuti

Thanks for the input guys. I'm certain I can handle this, but just needed a little clarification. Makes more sense now.

poppazuti

So I swapped out the rear cct without a single problem... Unfortunately not so lucky with the front. Had the front cylinder at tdc but the marks on the cams weren't lining up. Took every precaution possible and as I pulled the cct out about a 1 1/2 inch, the cam jumped. As I said the markings weren't lining up so I judged by the nearest markings and it looked to be about a tooth off, so I pulled the chain off the rear cam and rotated it to get it lined up. Buttoned her back up...and....nothing. At this point it's well past my experience level so I call the local shop to get her in. (While she was torn down I took the liberty of changing the plugs and air filter) 4 days later the service manager calls me and tells me that they're having the same problem (not instilling me with tons of confidence). Long story short, got her back today and was talking to the mechanic who said he thought the front cct had completely failed causing the cam chain to stretch a little so the cams are now about 1/2 tooth off.
However, while she was in the shop I had them install a Dynojet Stage I in it to take care of the lurch I was getting at 3K rpm due to new pipes.

Holy sh*t! The bike is running better than it ever has. Much to my surprise I accidentally pulled the front wheel up with about 3/4 throttle (stock gearing). The second and third time weren't accidents. I'm in love with her all over again.

Moral of my story: Don't be afraid to do this. I f@cked it up, but once I talked to the mechanic I learned that it was even baffling to them. Seems all the manuals say the timing marks should be where they aren't (others have posted the same concerns on this thread). Don't be afraid to admit defeat and leave it in the hands of those paid to do this stuff. Although having completed the job myself would have been more gratifying, riding my bike instead of scratching my head is much more gratifying.

lazn

Congrats Poppazuti the front is always the hard one. I was able to swap mine without issue but if one is going to mess with you, it will be the front one.

skoshere