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CCTs-How to change OEM to Manual Ape CCTs

Old 08-04-2008, 10:53 PM
  #61  
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Smile APE

I just got mine last month and only paid $43 per for them but I can't remember the web site, it was recommended on here somewhere in a CCT thread. Really fast shipping altho they were out of stock when I ordered mine.

Rey
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:21 AM
  #62  
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$43 for both or per each one? Insane if that was for both!! I bought mine for $87/pair on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APE-M...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 09-25-2008, 12:10 PM
  #63  
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33,000 on the OEM's. Thanks for the help.
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:00 PM
  #64  
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If anyone could come up with a website for APE, it would be greatly appreciated. Can't find one in google, except from Europe.

Also, what does it take to adjust the manual CCT's and how often for moderate street use? ( I generally don't beat on my bike anymore)
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:06 PM
  #65  
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Old 10-15-2008, 10:01 AM
  #66  
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Thank you!
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Old 10-15-2008, 10:37 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by rbrais View Post
If anyone could come up with a website for APE, it would be greatly appreciated.
www.aperaceparts.com (Direct)
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:31 AM
  #68  
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The crbzone link is an APE website, too. Actually, when I bought mine a few years ago I found them cheaper at a dealer's website, but I can't remember for the life of me what that site was. Prices have gone up a bit since then and I doubt that deal still exists anyway.
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Old 01-10-2009, 08:52 PM
  #69  
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My brother and I replaced mine last Wednesday. Followed the posted info. and we were good to go....pretty easy. I also kinda did what viperkillertt did, i.e. pulling the cc prior to removing the tensioner. We used safety wire.
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:07 PM
  #70  
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Talking CCT Replacement

Using safety wire.
Attached Thumbnails CCTs-How to change OEM to Manual Ape CCTs-wire2.jpg   CCTs-How to change OEM to Manual Ape CCTs-wire.jpg   CCTs-How to change OEM to Manual Ape CCTs-bike.jpg  
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Old 02-28-2009, 03:26 PM
  #71  
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Big Thanks to Calitoz for a great right up ! At 14k ...I finally replaced mine today . By carefully following your directions it was a successful swap . However I did go ahead and remove the front valve cover just to verify FT compression even though it wasnt necessary , I just wanted to be sure !
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:48 AM
  #72  
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Replaced the OEM CCT's with a set of manuals from Trucinduc and the process to remove and install is very easy following Calitoz's write-up. It took me approximately 2 hours from start to finish, including removing the rear cam cover to insure I was a TDC.

The key to success is when you loosen the CCT gasket, gently remove the OEM and you will be 100% sure the chain will remain in place. I also removed the spark plugs to make turning the crank easier.
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:37 PM
  #73  
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450 degrees does the trick

I too just installed a set from Truck. After removing the rear cover to align timing mark and cams, the front requires 450 degrees of counter clockwise rotation (1 1/4 turn) to be on the marks. Believe me, you don't need the hassle of removing the front head cover.
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Old 04-12-2009, 05:26 AM
  #74  
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Just did mine yesterday, used the tips in this thread, and it went seamlessly. Makes you realize how valuable these forums are. Thanks to all who posted their experience in here, lots of great info.
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:17 PM
  #75  
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Ok, got a question. when the front is on the mark, are the cam marks sometimes half a tooth off? the lobes look like they're in the proper place, just the marks are slightly off. if I were to move the cam sprocket forward one notch, they'd be below the edge half a tooth instead of above it half tooth.
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Old 04-12-2009, 03:02 PM
  #76  
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Did mine today with Trucker's CCTs. Took just short of three hours, start to finish. All went well. Only removed the rear spark plug. It held at TDC for the front no problem. With warmer weather coming this week, I'll feel a lot more secure when riding.
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Old 04-12-2009, 03:45 PM
  #77  
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guess I was looking at mine a little crooked. was ok, and just got back from a testride. running excellent.
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Old 05-19-2009, 05:22 AM
  #78  
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I have a stupid question. Why 6th gear?
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:37 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by timdske View Post
I have a stupid question. Why 6th gear?
Update: Dont read this post from me. I was not understanding the question Sorry.

What??? Why???
What does this have to do with the topic?
Umm, i personally use 6th gear almost daily. I really dont understand your question. Our bikes have tons of torque, so 6th gear is a great gear to cruise in on the freeway. I can go from 70-90 in 6th within like 3 seconds. Very helpful to pass cars quickly and then return to the speed limit.

Last edited by viperkillertt; 05-19-2009 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:31 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by calitoz View Post

Step 1: Put the Hawk on a Center stand that will allow you to rotate the rear wheel.

Step 2: Remove the Timing hole nut (Left side of the hawk-nut to the left) and locate the "RT" mark .


This is done by putting the Hawk in 6th gear (thanks nuhawk and slowhawk) and move the rear wheel until the "RT" mark is aligned with the mark on the casing. When the marks are aligned, the TDC (Top Dead Center) is reached for the rear cylinder.
Originally Posted by viperkillertt View Post
What??? Why???
What does this have to do with the topic?
Umm, i personally use 6th gear almost daily. I really dont understand your question. Our bikes have tons of torque, so 6th gear is a great gear to cruise in on the freeway. I can go from 70-90 in 6th within like 3 seconds. Very helpful to pass cars quickly and then return to the speed limit.
If you actually READ the the instructions you might understand my question and not give a stupid answer. Maybe I should have asked the question better but at 6am I'm not always thinking clearly.
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:42 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by timdske View Post
If you actually READ the the instructions you might understand my question and not give a stupid answer. Maybe I should have asked the question better but at 6am I'm not always thinking clearly.
Because the ratio...in 6th gear you have more leverage to turn the motor
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:48 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by calitoz View Post
Because the ratio...in 6th gear you have more leverage to turn the motor
Thank you. That's what I thought, I wanted to make sure it didn't have a different purpose. I just ordered my tensioners and they should be here Friday. This has to be the best thread yet. Awsome job with the step-by-step.
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:46 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by timdske View Post
If you actually READ the the instructions you might understand my question and not give a stupid answer. Maybe I should have asked the question better but at 6am I'm not always thinking clearly.
OMG!!! I finally got it.
Sorry, i was so confused. I have been posting to this thread for 2 years, so i didn't re read the beginning.
Also, i never ever suggest the "turning tire" method. It totally sucks!!! Use a torque wrench or just a regular socket wrench to do the job. I bought a damn rear tire stand to do it that way and ended up not using it. I pushed with all my might in 6th gear and never could get the tire to hardly budge. It just pushed the bike forward. That is my .02
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:16 AM
  #84  
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I will agree that a socket wrench is far easier than the tire method. You can use the back end of the stock spark plug wrench to remove the access cover, then a large socket wrench to turn the motor.
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Old 05-20-2009, 12:32 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by lazn View Post
I will agree that a socket wrench is far easier than the tire method. You can use the back end of the stock spark plug wrench to remove the access cover, then a large socket wrench to turn the motor.
Wow, i didnt know about the back of the spark plug wrench. That is cool. Mine was stripped quite a while ago, so i need a new one before i can use it. Thank though.
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Old 05-20-2009, 01:12 PM
  #86  
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The cover is a 10mm allen wrench, I tried my T-handle Snap-on first, no go. Then a 3/8 long handle ratchet with an allen socket, and finally stripped the threads out with a 1/2 breaker bar.

Any ideas on getting it out? Impact driver?

Edit: Also tried my electric impact and it wouldn't budge it.

Last edited by Syclone; 05-20-2009 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 05-20-2009, 01:26 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Syclone View Post
The cover is a 10mm allen wrench, I tried my T-handle Snap-on first, no go. Then a 3/8 long handle ratchet with an allen socket, and finally stripped the threads out with a 1/2 breaker bar.

Any ideas on getting it out? Impact driver?

Edit: Also tried my electric impact and it wouldn't budge it.
Wow, it sounds like what i did. I used a star socket from craftsman. I pounded it into the slot with a mallet and then i was able to get it off. It is nice to not be the only one who stripped it. I kinda wish they offered a stainless steel version. I am sure this is a common issue. Also, make sure to not put it on very tight when you replace it. Good luck! Also be very careful if you use my method. You could easily hurt something if not careful.
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Old 05-20-2009, 01:55 PM
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I/we figured Honda would have included a tool to remove it in the tool kit, so that is how we figured out the spark plug wrench thing (it was either yruyur or I who figured it out, we both did our APEs at the same time), it fits deeply and securly and by putting the 10mm wrench on there first you have a nice handle that you can put a breaker bar onto.

Last edited by lazn; 05-20-2009 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Syclone View Post
The cover is a 10mm allen wrench, I tried my T-handle Snap-on first, no go. Then a 3/8 long handle ratchet with an allen socket, and finally stripped the threads out with a 1/2 breaker bar.

Any ideas on getting it out? Impact driver?

Edit: Also tried my electric impact and it wouldn't budge it.
I turned out the 10mm hex too. The cover plug was seized in. You need to use a thin chisel, and use this to 'crack' the seized threads by (carefully, you don't want to hit the stator cover) tapping the plug anticlockwise. Wish i'd done that before stripping out the hex socket in the middle. New plugs are pretty expensive.

On reinstalling, use a smear of copper grease on it, and the timing hole plug.

Cheers,

Paul.

Last edited by opsmgr; 06-01-2009 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 06-01-2009, 08:27 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by opsmgr View Post
I turned out the 10mm hex too. The cover plug was seized in. You need to use a thin chisel, and use this to 'crack' the seized threads by (carefully, you don't want to hit the stator cover) tapping the plug anticlockwise. Wish i'd done that before stripping out the hex socket in the middle. New plugs are pretty expensive.

On reinstalling, use a smear of copper grease on it, and the timing hole plug.

Cheers,

Paul.
Yeah, they are. That is why i am using a stripped one instead of a new one. Same reason i have been using a broken shifter for the last 5 years. I dropped my bike 2 days after buying it and broke the shifter. I grabbed a bolt and drilled. It has worked perfectly since then. 100 bucks for what a simple bolt does, that is just nutz
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