CCTs-How to change OEM to Manual Ape CCTs
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 25
APE
I just got mine last month and only paid $43 per for them but I can't remember the web site, it was recommended on here somewhere in a CCT thread. Really fast shipping altho they were out of stock when I ordered mine.
Rey
Rey
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 702
From: Bham, AL
$43 for both or per each one? Insane if that was for both!! I bought mine for $87/pair on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APE-M...QQcmdZViewItem
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 287
From: Brooklyn, CT
If anyone could come up with a website for APE, it would be greatly appreciated. Can't find one in google, except from Europe.
Also, what does it take to adjust the manual CCT's and how often for moderate street use? ( I generally don't beat on my bike anymore)
Also, what does it take to adjust the manual CCT's and how often for moderate street use? ( I generally don't beat on my bike anymore)
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,806
From: Atlanta, GA
Sexual Daredevil
SuperSport
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 597
From: Mother Earth- orbiting around Charlotte, NC. But now over the border in S.C.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,806
From: Atlanta, GA
The crbzone link is an APE website, too. Actually, when I bought mine a few years ago I found them cheaper at a dealer's website, but I can't remember for the life of me what that site was. Prices have gone up a bit since then and I doubt that deal still exists anyway.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 238
From: tx
My brother and I replaced mine last Wednesday. Followed the posted info. and we were good to go....pretty easy. I also kinda did what viperkillertt did, i.e. pulling the cc prior to removing the tensioner. We used safety wire.
CCT Replacement
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 442
From: Hampton GA
Big Thanks to Calitoz for a great right up ! At 14k ...I finally replaced mine today . By carefully following your directions it was a successful swap . However I did go ahead and remove the front valve cover just to verify FT compression even though it wasnt necessary , I just wanted to be sure ! 
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 599
From: Eagle, ID.
Replaced the OEM CCT's with a set of manuals from Trucinduc and the process to remove and install is very easy following Calitoz's write-up. It took me approximately 2 hours from start to finish, including removing the rear cam cover to insure I was a TDC.
The key to success is when you loosen the CCT gasket, gently remove the OEM and you will be 100% sure the chain will remain in place. I also removed the spark plugs to make turning the crank easier.
The key to success is when you loosen the CCT gasket, gently remove the OEM and you will be 100% sure the chain will remain in place. I also removed the spark plugs to make turning the crank easier.
Moderator
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,213
From: Gettysburg, Pa
450 degrees does the trick
I too just installed a set from Truck. After removing the rear cover to align timing mark and cams, the front requires 450 degrees of counter clockwise rotation (1 1/4 turn) to be on the marks. Believe me, you don't need the hassle of removing the front head cover.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 187
From: Massachusetts
Just did mine yesterday, used the tips in this thread, and it went seamlessly. Makes you realize how valuable these forums are. Thanks to all who posted their experience in here, lots of great info.
Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 68
From: Chatt
Ok, got a question. when the front is on the mark, are the cam marks sometimes half a tooth off? the lobes look like they're in the proper place, just the marks are slightly off. if I were to move the cam sprocket forward one notch, they'd be below the edge half a tooth instead of above it half tooth.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 834
From: Nooksack WA
Did mine today with Trucker's CCTs. Took just short of three hours, start to finish. All went well. Only removed the rear spark plug. It held at TDC for the front no problem. With warmer weather coming this week, I'll feel a lot more secure when riding.
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Update: Dont read this post from me. I was not understanding the question 
Sorry.
What??? Why???
What does this have to do with the topic?
Umm, i personally use 6th gear almost daily. I really dont understand your question. Our bikes have tons of torque, so 6th gear is a great gear to cruise in on the freeway. I can go from 70-90 in 6th within like 3 seconds. Very helpful to pass cars quickly and then return to the speed limit.
Sorry.What??? Why???
What does this have to do with the topic?
Umm, i personally use 6th gear almost daily. I really dont understand your question. Our bikes have tons of torque, so 6th gear is a great gear to cruise in on the freeway. I can go from 70-90 in 6th within like 3 seconds. Very helpful to pass cars quickly and then return to the speed limit.
Last edited by viperkillertt; May 19, 2009 at 08:46 PM.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 105
From: Elgin, Illinois
Step 1: Put the Hawk on a Center stand that will allow you to rotate the rear wheel.
Step 2: Remove the Timing hole nut (Left side of the hawk-nut to the left) and locate the "RT" mark .
This is done by putting the Hawk in 6th gear (thanks nuhawk and slowhawk) and move the rear wheel until the "RT" mark is aligned with the mark on the casing. When the marks are aligned, the TDC (Top Dead Center) is reached for the rear cylinder.
What??? Why???
What does this have to do with the topic?
Umm, i personally use 6th gear almost daily. I really dont understand your question. Our bikes have tons of torque, so 6th gear is a great gear to cruise in on the freeway. I can go from 70-90 in 6th within like 3 seconds. Very helpful to pass cars quickly and then return to the speed limit.
What does this have to do with the topic?
Umm, i personally use 6th gear almost daily. I really dont understand your question. Our bikes have tons of torque, so 6th gear is a great gear to cruise in on the freeway. I can go from 70-90 in 6th within like 3 seconds. Very helpful to pass cars quickly and then return to the speed limit.
Thread Starter
Escape Reality
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 612
From: KANATA, KANADA
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 105
From: Elgin, Illinois
Thank you. That's what I thought, I wanted to make sure it didn't have a different purpose. I just ordered my tensioners and they should be here Friday. This has to be the best thread yet. Awsome job with the step-by-step.
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Sorry, i was so confused. I have been posting to this thread for 2 years, so i didn't re read the beginning.
Also, i never ever suggest the "turning tire" method. It totally sucks!!! Use a torque wrench or just a regular socket wrench to do the job. I bought a damn rear tire stand to do it that way and ended up not using it. I pushed with all my might in 6th gear and never could get the tire to hardly budge. It just pushed the bike forward. That is my .02
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,132
From: Phoenix, AZ
I will agree that a socket wrench is far easier than the tire method. You can use the back end of the stock spark plug wrench to remove the access cover, then a large socket wrench to turn the motor.
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Wow, i didnt know about the back of the spark plug wrench. That is cool. Mine was stripped quite a while ago, so i need a new one before i can use it. Thank though.
Boosted
SuperSport
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 642
From: Sioux Falls, SD
The cover is a 10mm allen wrench, I tried my T-handle Snap-on first, no go. Then a 3/8 long handle ratchet with an allen socket, and finally stripped the threads out with a 1/2 breaker bar.
Any ideas on getting it out? Impact driver?
Edit: Also tried my electric impact and it wouldn't budge it.
Any ideas on getting it out? Impact driver?
Edit: Also tried my electric impact and it wouldn't budge it.
Last edited by Syclone; May 20, 2009 at 12:15 PM.
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
The cover is a 10mm allen wrench, I tried my T-handle Snap-on first, no go. Then a 3/8 long handle ratchet with an allen socket, and finally stripped the threads out with a 1/2 breaker bar.
Any ideas on getting it out? Impact driver?
Edit: Also tried my electric impact and it wouldn't budge it.
Any ideas on getting it out? Impact driver?
Edit: Also tried my electric impact and it wouldn't budge it.
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,132
From: Phoenix, AZ
I/we figured Honda would have included a tool to remove it in the tool kit, so that is how we figured out the spark plug wrench thing (it was either yruyur or I who figured it out, we both did our APEs at the same time), it fits deeply and securly and by putting the 10mm wrench on there first you have a nice handle that you can put a breaker bar onto.
Last edited by lazn; May 20, 2009 at 12:57 PM.
Member
Squid
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 63
From: Dromore, Northern Ireland
The cover is a 10mm allen wrench, I tried my T-handle Snap-on first, no go. Then a 3/8 long handle ratchet with an allen socket, and finally stripped the threads out with a 1/2 breaker bar.
Any ideas on getting it out? Impact driver?
Edit: Also tried my electric impact and it wouldn't budge it.
Any ideas on getting it out? Impact driver?
Edit: Also tried my electric impact and it wouldn't budge it.
On reinstalling, use a smear of copper grease on it, and the timing hole plug.
Cheers,
Paul.
Last edited by opsmgr; Jun 1, 2009 at 05:59 AM.
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
I turned out the 10mm hex too. The cover plug was seized in. You need to use a thin chisel, and use this to 'crack' the seized threads by (carefully, you don't want to hit the stator cover) tapping the plug anticlockwise. Wish i'd done that before stripping out the hex socket in the middle. New plugs are pretty expensive.
On reinstalling, use a smear of copper grease on it, and the timing hole plug.
Cheers,
Paul.
On reinstalling, use a smear of copper grease on it, and the timing hole plug.
Cheers,
Paul.
